I should then be able to reach bolts that hold the pipe at the back of the engine x 2. Once this is done I can then wiggle and jiggle the pipe out (I am assuming it will be easiest going underneath the car).

You get the pipe out from the top.

Thread the pipe back through from underneath, seating into waterpump with o ring. Bolt back to engine, jack up so gearboox cross member can be reinstalled, paut exhaust manifold back on, connect hoses, fill coolant.

Correct

Strip 2 studs trying to remove exhaust manifold.

Bolts, not studs. Spray with WD40 first and take your time.

Tilt engine and gearbox but still fail to get big hands in to undo bolt at back of head.

Not that hard

Fire her up - O ring does not seal at waterpump. Exhaust manifold leaking.

Use silicon on the O ring and use a genuine O ring from Ford. Use a new exhaust gasket, not the stock metal one.

Thanks SWC - it all seems pretty straight forward, but my experience is that I will likely find something to trip me up in sight of the line.

Makes sense now to remove from the top. With the exhaust manifold seperated, it can just be lifted up and then tilted as it raises to allow the bend at the bottom to come through.

I would soak the exhaust bolts overnight in wd40 - car is on gas which means there is extra stuff in the way of the exhaust manifold but I guess you just need a little bit of room.

Can someone confirm that it is just the two bolts holding on the tube, and that basically I just need to undo them, disconnect the two from the inlet manifold side and then free from the water pump by pulling the tube backwards?

Thanks again for everyones help.

First bolt is just behind the water pump. 10mm or 13mm

2nd bolt is a large 19mm bolt on the top right hand side of the bell housing. You should be able to loosen it without removing it completely and the metal tab attaching it can then swing away from the bolt shaft.

There may well be a third bolt that hold the heater pipe to bottom rear of the BBM manifold. 10mm

Good luck.

Cheers
BenJ