H Fellas, I had a simlar problem to what you boys are having and when I checked my fuel pump I tested it by sitting in a container of fuel and conecting power and I found fuel leaking out of the small hose and therefore recycling back into the tank. I relaced the hoses and hose clamps and ""Bingo" Problem solved

Hey,

Thanks for that Troyman, i thought that the BBM might have been switching over to early. I was guessing about the amount of revs as i havent connected the tacho up yet.......should be pretty easy, i have the dash out ATM for installation of some gauges, i think i will run the tacho wire from the harness str8 to the dash.

I have disconnected the knock sensor( this is the one near where the coil is mounted). Speaking of which, the auto elec i went to said the coils are prone to cracking due to the vibration, so if it mysteriously doesnt start one day i will know why. I might move it off the engine one day anyway.

I havent run the car this arvo as i was going to put in my adaptor for the oil pressure and temp gauges.
The BBM does have the check valve but not connected as you have done. I was wondering how it could work when there is no vac' at WOT. I dont think this is the only cause of my dramas though. I was wondering if the FPR could be faulty??.....but as i said b4 the engine was running fine.

Slighty off topic, is the temp sensor solely for the ecu, or does it work the temp gauge as well?? I couldnt see another sender.

Cheers

Daz

on the vac side of things the vacuum holds the bbm diaphram keeping the manifold on the long runners for down low torque and when it switches the vacuum solinoid and releases the vacuum it switches the manifold over to short runners for high rpm power..

if the manifold switches over to early because of no vacc from wot. you will feel the engine pull and die off before 3800rpm because it switched the manifold before the ecu has advanced timing to match the switch over point of the manifold giving you a week top end feel..

and the thermostat housing has 2 temp sensors that need to be conected
there is a large sensor on the side of the thermostat housing. this is your coolant temp sensor for the ecu .
and just behind the large sensor there is a small sender that is the temp sender for the guage..
some models have a third sensor in between the other 2 sensors it has a plug like the injectors this sensor is for cars fitted with climate controle..

and yes the coils are prone to crack and fail..
your best bet is to mount the coil somewhere away from excessive heat or vibration.

Had a thought the new fuel rail may have a damaged line reg? or a kink in a line???

i'd deffinately say its fuel related. but if the gasket is dodgy or the thing didn't seal properly you'd have a heap of s**t at the end. and as troyman said, coils are a b**ch.


My car does the same (sort of) thing. found a new battery helpped heaps.

Hi,

My BBM is working fine now, i blocked off the return line from the tee, and the centre one on the tree. Troyman, your set-up according to your sketch did not work. The solenoid shuts vacuum off not opens up. When ignition is on solenoid is open. Anyway it doesn't matter, it working now.

I do have one slight problem, and that is it seems to be a bit lacking until about 1800 rpm. Maybe timing is out. Is the static timing different on an XR6 motor, compared to a Fairmont or GLi models??

Cheers

Daz

im not sure what you mean it dont work???

so the way mine is working. the solenoid is open all the time and allowing the vacuum to suck the diaphragm shut, the blue check valve stops vacuum escaping on wot.
the solenoid has constant 12v with ignition on but is inactive until the ecu earths the solenoid releasing the vacuum into the atmosphere through the base of the solenoid thus releasing the diaphragm.

now im not 100% sure this is how ford wanted it to work but ive had the car on a dyno and i know for sure the manifold is switching over at 3800rpm...

also im very interested to see how you and others have set yours up??
because i still have a few issues with surging at light throttle and maybe the way i have my vacuum set up could be the cause of my problem

Hey Troyman,

Maybe you're right about the vacuum set-up, if the vacuum is varying them would your fpr be doing the same causing the surging. Mine is not surging, just a bit funny as i previously mentioned. Thinking about the way you have done it and and it obviously works so it should work on mine to, so if i re-do the tubes eleminating the extra one that is blocked off, then i basically would have it the same way as you.
It didnt work because the vacuum was trapped, but didnt escape, i checked because i was sure that i wasn't revving it hard enough, so i disconnected the solenoid, and the diaphragm didnt move. If i disconnect it now, it moves, just like when you rev it, and it is very close to the 3800 rpm.
If you want to come over and check it out, your welcome too.

Cheers

Daz

Just wondering has anyone checked that the switch actually works by having no earth initially and then at 3800rpm recieving earth from the ecu and switching to the long runners?

Reason i ask is ive just put this manifold into my EA.. the vacuum lines are set exactly as in the pic above which is how they came off the car as i left all the vac lines alone so i wouldn't have to figure where they go. Thing is what is happening is when i start the car the vacuum module on front of the manifold stays down... when i apply earth to the solenoid it sucks the vac canister up into the long runner position. I've double checked everything is going where it should as in the above diagram so before i spend more time figuring out whats wrong i'm wondering if maybe it's normal for the solenoid to be powered initially and then the ECU to actually switch the power off at 3800rpm rather than on.

I'm using a MS ecu to control it rather than an EL ecu so that's why i can't test what an ef/el ecu would be doing.

Make sure you have the output set to inverted in megatune.