Just wanting to knw if anyone has run one of these ontheir I6 and how they went?

I've got two sitting around here which I'm considering putting on my new EFII I6.

I bought one of them for my old car, a TR7 V8 and I noticed quite a considerable gain in top end power up above 5000 RPM.

The reason I ask for experiences is that the contorller that Davies Craig sells it as expensive as s**t and it didn't work in my setup. Straight out of the box, it boiled the engine on the coldest setting, even with their resistor in parallel.

I'm going to design my own motor controller with the aid of some friends, but if there's not too much gain to be had by running one of these on the I6, I won't bother.

I'd be keen on fitting one too... gotta be a few extra kws to be had

Yeah I was looking at these not that long ago.
There was an Autospeed article on them, but whatever it said, Davies Craig had an injunction placed on it so it couldn't be printed...
Bit of a worry...

When those pumps first came out I looked closely at the whole idea and came to the conclusions that: a) the controller would be a total failure - at least the way they say to set it up (they say remove the thermostat valve altogether don't they? - BAD IDEA!!); and b) the way they reckon to operate the system is all wrong (sorta related to the first conclusion).

The big danger would be in reliability - if those pumps are indeed reliable then the concept is sound.

I reckon the way to use an electric pump is to set it all up so that the whole cooling system still operates exactly as std - just with the EWP providing motive flow for the coolant - then you just got to work out flow rate (pump speed). To that end I'd wire the pump to run at 2 speeds - a low "warming up" speed for when the engine's below operating temp range just to ensure the coolant is circulating at least a small amount and then "normal operating" speed which activates at a certain temperature - ie. off a temp switch - that equates to when the thermostat valve is operational (engine in normal operating temp range).

It's entirely possible just a single speed would be fine - if the EWP can operate like the std engine pump - ie. will just turn over fine without building excess backpressure until the thermostat opens - then a single speed sufficient to provide sufficient flow at normal operating temp ranges would be all you need.

The thermostat would need to be a type with the small bleed/bypass hole in the skirt (pretty sure that's std anyway?).

Also some attention would need to be paid to how the heater flow operates - ie. the return from the heater is into the original water pump inlet isn't it? - so having the EWP then between the radiator and original pump would be all outta whack in that respect??

Someone on here (think a V8 guy) was running one in a 'supplementary' setup. Still had the standard water pump, but was using the Davies Craig to take load off of it.
He theorised too, that if either failed, the other would still be working.

How would you use an electric water pump on an EF?? They use serpentine belts so you'll need to find a different belt and a different way to run it. Or does the pump have an idler pulley on it???

One option I considered was to run the pump @ 3V or 4V when the engine's cold, then switch it to 12V when the engine's hot, like you suggest.

To do this though, you need to run the thermostat bypass hose down to the inlet to the water pump. The bleed nipple in the thermostats you refer to is simply to bleed air out of the system when you fill it up. It's not to provide coolant flow when the thermostat's closed.

It only draws a max of 8 amps, which is 96 watts of electrcity. Even if the alternator is only 10% efficient, that means the alternator would need to draw 960 watts of power from the engine to drive the water pump. Still a hell of a lot less power than the 5-6kW the ordinary pump draws.

Ok I built a 351w cortina had a stainless plate made with pipe coming from each side merging into one(cost me $180) I ran the davis craig water pump from a thermo fan sensor and used a washer cut out of alloy with different size hole's till I acheived a good opererating temp which worked fine.
The first pump lasted about 3mths the replacement lasted two weeks.
When I returned it to Autobarn the manager said that they had had quite a few do this(leak from seal in pump into the electric motor) so he refunded me the money.
I lost $180 dollars on that setup as I couldn't find another electric pump at that time to use.
And the morroso pumps where to long to fit between motor radiator.

Went back to std pump.
and had to move my 14" thermo fan and cut metal out behind grill to get my it to fit as no room to fit when std pump fitted to motor.

Will never buy another davis craig pump again.

I have heard a few iffy things about the craig davis pump also.

If your really worried about your engine temp on your thermo on your i6, i suggest just get a COLD thermo, gutter the bottom of it (cut the bottom plate) so its running colder all the time.

I run a normal temp thermo, guttered bottom so keeps the car that bit cooler. It also still does get warm to about mid and 3quarter high too .. i mean it works very well and its still reliable without the problem

Alternatively you can ALSO run a by-pass switch for your twin thermo's making them run all the time or only when you think your car is getting warm, alternate on that is without modn anything unplug your aircon compressor and run your aircon on full with a/c turned on wihch will run your thermo's on full ball without the ac compressor being used. (also currently have mine disc'd in winter, eh who needs it) .. even in summer.. so thats another choice of extra cool

changing the motors if the blow is a 5 min job, worst case scenario with second hand parts $35 .. very easily done but they have a very good life on them too ..

just some ideas

Yes yes its another thread from the dead

I have a Davies Craig ewp 115 and digital controller on my 302 cleveland powered GH Sigma and its great

While the engine is cold the controller runs the pump for a few seconds then turns off for a few then once it get to 70* the on/off cycle becomes more frequent, My target temp is 85* and when that temp is reached the pump then runs constantly once it gets to 88* the fans then come on for about 30 seconds and the temp will drop to 80*

There is no thermostat as the controller now takes its place

what a thread mine 5 years