|
| xguteman |
|
||
|
Gday all
Blew head gasket the other day so the head had to come off. While its off woz gonna get some work done. Heres what im thinking Wade 1636 cam, clean up valves and seats, light port/polish and Shave head. What is the max you can shave of head before the compression is too high to run standard unleaded? Has anyone done there own porting and polishing work before, any pointers would be handy! What other mods should i do to the head while its off? Also what is the purpose of the adjustable cam gear and are they really needed? Cheers |
||
| Top | |
||
| shnoza |
|
|||
|
umm you said all i can think off.. sorry mate... goood luck with it
_________________ "Chuck Norris does not sleep. He waits."
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| tickford_6 |
|
||
Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
xguteman wrote: Gday all
Blew head gasket the other day so the head had to come off. While its off woz gonna get some work done. Heres what im thinking Wade 1636 cam, clean up valves and seats, light port/polish and Shave head. What is the max you can shave of head before the compression is too high to run standard unleaded? Has anyone done there own porting and polishing work before, any pointers would be handy! What other mods should i do to the head while its off? Also what is the purpose of the adjustable cam gear and are they really needed? Cheers i do all of my own porting work. best advice i can give you on this one, if you are doing it your self is to get a really high speed dye grinder and some 25mm flap wheels. all you need to do for a basic job is to clean up the bad casting ford seems to love so much. if you've not done it befor try not to change the shape of things to much. once you have polished all the ports get some 80grit sand paper run it down the intake ports in a swirl motion to roughen it up a bit. it will help to stop fuel settleing on the port walls. leave the exhaust polished |
||
| Top | |
||
| Jaysen |
|
|||
|
I would upgrade the bimetal valves for one peice valves and whilst your there you might as well get the seats 3 angle cut to compliment the new valves. The std bimetal valves are ok provided that your not chasing performance, but when you start revving the thing on a regular basis, the last thing that you want is for a valve to drop and ruin all your hard earned money spent
_________________ Dima, Mitch & Jay's RPD |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Walkinshaw |
|
||
|
Get a new 41mm exhaust seat cut in and run au 7mm valves.
_________________ Soo many idiots. So few bullets |
||
| Top | |
||
| xguteman |
|
||
|
Cheers for the info guys, keep it coming!
Tickford_6 you hit the nail on the head. Im not confident doing an extreme port job but will just clean all casting marks to help it flow. Never heard about the 80 grit before, thats the beauty of this forum, Thanks! What are the size of the standard exhaust valves on the XGs/EDs? Anyone got any info on the ajustable cam gears or head shave? |
||
| Top | |
||
| altedxr6 |
|
|||
|
xguteman wrote: Cheers for the info guys, keep it coming!
Tickford_6 you hit the nail on the head. Im not confident doing an extreme port job but will just clean all casting marks to help it flow. Never heard about the 80 grit before, thats the beauty of this forum, Thanks! What are the size of the standard exhaust valves on the XGs/EDs? Anyone got any info on the ajustable cam gears or head shave? You could take your head up to 45thou of it ... you should not have any trouble there .. And yes, I do my own head porting, But, It takes a LONG time have you have to be very careful not to go overboard doing it all . After its ported, You will need to get it flow tested . My advise to be, to port it out first, If you not confident porting it a far bit, Just use a dremel/die grinder (as mentioned above) and smooth the intake ports out, and then using the same dremel with a polish bit on it the end to smooth everything out . once you have done that, get it machined and shaved & flow tested . No point in getting it machined / shaved first ... thats just the way I do it ... |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| xguteman |
|
||
|
Cheers Altedxr6 thanks for the info!
Was looking at taking about 1mm/40thou off. Compression wise shouln't be a problem with regular unleaded? Im a boilermaker so done plenty of time on the die grinder, just not on car heads just gonna clean them out. wont be changing the shape so much as giving it all more of a smooth flow. Anyone know about the adjustable cam gear? |
||
| Top | |
||
| Waggin |
|
|||
|
xguteman wrote: Cheers Altedxr6 thanks for the info!
Was looking at taking about 1mm/40thou off. Compression wise shouln't be a problem with regular unleaded? Im a boilermaker so done plenty of time on the die grinder, just not on car heads just gonna clean them out. wont be changing the shape so much as giving it all more of a smooth flow. Anyone know about the adjustable cam gear? 40 thou off will take you up around 10:1 compression. You will either need to back off your base timing or run 98RON
_________________ WAG363: AUII LTD Supercharged 363 Dart Stroker [Supercharged 363 LTD Build] |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| xguteman |
|
||
|
Aarrhh getting a bit gready am I! he he
How much should i take off, so Im safe as! Im after more performance but dont want to sacrifice reliabilty. |
||
| Top | |
||
| tickford_6 |
|
||
Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
xguteman wrote: Aarrhh getting a bit gready am I! he he
How much should i take off, so Im safe as! Im after more performance but dont want to sacrifice reliabilty. to be the safest you can, only take off what is needed to get it flat. on that note when mine was done it needed 22thou to make it flat again. |
||
| Top | |
||
| xguteman |
|
||
|
Thanks guys!
|
||
| Top | |
||
| CLEANEB |
|
|||
|
You have to be carefull when you get your head shaved. Especially if your getting a new cam and bigger valves. Youll need to make sure Valve/Piston clearances are in order because the last thing you want to have happen is your brand new valves gettin bent by the pistons. Ive also heard of exessive timing chain rattle and noise on shaved heads.
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| eb6 |
|
||
|
The adjustable cam gears allows the cam timin to be changed from the crank changing the amonut of time the valve is open as to the piston stroke. if you move one way ( i cant remember retard or advance) you will have the cam open sooner to when the piston starts goin down allown more vac to be achieved, if you go the otehr way it does the oppisite. it basically can adjust when the power comes on as to early or later. there is power to be made and definantly toprque. feel free to add more or correct me if someone knows better. u can get them from crow cams for about 120 i think.
_________________ tyre liquifying technology inc. |
||
| Top | |
||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 96 guests |
