|
| Lukieman |
|
|||
|
Heres the scenario...
Went shopping this morning, car started fine, cruised in... after about 10 minutes, got back in the car... tried to start... It would crank the engine about 1/4 of a turn then it would sit there clicking... like the starter relay and the starter motor. Eventually got the engine jump started, once taken off the jumper the car would run for about a minute, then struggle - if the rev's not high enough it would just die in the a**. Now... what could it be... the battery is about 1 month old, a heavy duty type from Repco, I'm assuming the battery is not charging, or charging enough... New alternator???... Any help would be appreciated... thanks guys! 
_________________ "...we can rebuild him, we have the technology... we just dont want to spend a lot of money." |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| chunkz |
|
|||
|
test your alternator...
see if its got power...... put the battery on charge and try starting the car once its fully chargd.. if no worries, then most likely its the alternator
_________________
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| CHEF |
|
|||
|
Just take it to a sparky and get them to test the charging system, save yourself the time buggering around trying to figure it out youreslf
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Lukieman |
|
|||
|
What about Lube Mobile, are they any good?... I can't really take the car anywhere now, so I'm gonna have to do it here....
_________________ "...we can rebuild him, we have the technology... we just dont want to spend a lot of money." |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| XGPANELVAN |
|
|||
|
ive had this problem heaps, gone through 3 alternators ...on an EA.
it aint the battery, because the alternator would then still have enough charge to keep the engin running. once the alternator is f**k, its just a matter of time before the battery goes flat then your engin will cut out. check the alternator wiring, if it all looks sweet, then replace ur alternator.
_________________
Last edited by XGPANELVAN on Thu Feb 03, 2005 11:53 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| chunkz |
|
|||
|
charge the battery up over night...
stick it in the morning... if your car starts... then xg would be right... alternator....
_________________
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Lukieman |
|
|||
|
I don't have a home charger... but if another car can jump start my engine, and the alternator is only powerfull enough to keep it going at high revs (obviously a weak charge) and its not charging my battery at the same time... then Im assuming my alternator is up s**t creek... plus this is probably the reason I had to buy a new battery, It just ain't charging enough...
I remember my volt meter was running just under 1/2 way on the guage with lights on... shouldn't it be around 16V under no load???? Is it possible for the alternator to produce a weak current?? Or does it fail full stop???? What the best method of attack to get the old one out and stick a new one in???
_________________ "...we can rebuild him, we have the technology... we just dont want to spend a lot of money." |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Lukieman |
|
|||
|
Okay, once again I have been doing some research into the Bosch alternators...
There are 3 terminals on the alternator : >Battery charge (to battery 14V) >Field voltage (from battery 12V) >Signal (to idiot light in dash) Now I have been reading, with some Bosch alternators, that sometimes the signal light, IF NOT CONNECTED / OPEN, may render the charging system inoperative, as it won't pass the field current through. Is this correct with our Falcons alternators...?!?!??!?? Why do I say this???? The problem I had today was directly after I had installed an HI Series cluster (LCD type from Ghias/LTD). So, as you can guess, to save a little time as I needed to do other things, I didn't bother wiring the signal line into the cluster. Circuit open... Could this have stopped my charging system from working?!?!??! Does anyone know?
_________________ "...we can rebuild him, we have the technology... we just dont want to spend a lot of money." |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| altedxr6 |
|
|||
|
doubt changing the dashj cluster will do anything to the alternator changing system, i've got about 5 ea alternators sitting here, come and grab one if you want.
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Interceptor |
|
||
|
Lukieman wrote: Okay, once again I have been doing some research into the Bosch alternators...
There are 3 terminals on the alternator : >Battery charge (to battery 14V) >Field voltage (from battery 12V) >Signal (to idiot light in dash) Now I have been reading, with some Bosch alternators, that sometimes the signal light, IF NOT CONNECTED / OPEN, may render the charging system inoperative, as it won't pass the field current through. Is this correct with our Falcons alternators...?!?!??!?? Why do I say this???? The problem I had today was directly after I had installed an HI Series cluster (LCD type from Ghias/LTD). So, as you can guess, to save a little time as I needed to do other things, I didn't bother wiring the signal line into the cluster. Circuit open... Could this have stopped my charging system from working?!?!??! Does anyone know? if the alternaotr warning light wire isnt connected, or the light is blown, the alternator wont charge, and running the alternator may actually damage it the alternator warning light wire came off on my XF, and by the time the battery lost enough charge to start the engine, even hooking the warning light wire up again wouldnt get the alternator to charge when i got it going again.....
_________________ Banned |
||
| Top | |
||
| bowsaw |
|
|||
|
Multimeter-put pos on main alt terminal, neg on neg batt terminal, see what it says, should be 13.8-14.8 odd.
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| wadi |
|
|||
|
Same problem I had with EA, two months after I bought it. Alternator was f*%cked, just get a sparky to look at it.
_________________ 1989 EA Falcon MPI (Converted! YAY!)
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Lukieman |
|
|||
|
Well... my problem is all fixed now...
No, the alternator wasn't fooked... 
No, my battery wasn't at fault...
No blown fuses...
 So what was it you may be wondering... 
... twas that bloody ALT. WARNING light!!! 
See, for the alternator to work that light must be operating / closed circuit... sounds silly eh? But if anyone looks into how the alt. works, you should find that it requires it to pass the 12V current to the field current after starting. Thats all it was... now my LCD dash is working great, car it workin sweet with the original alternator cranking out 14.2V. So, my advice to anyone whos re-wiring their clusters, make sure that the ALT light is connected or you'll end up stuck somewhere.. like me. Cheers!!!
_________________ "...we can rebuild him, we have the technology... we just dont want to spend a lot of money." |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Lukieman |
|
|||
|
Oh... and here is the end result...
EA Fairmont/Giha - Added trip computer, cruise control, LCD cluster, giha steering wheel, ED shifter... 
_________________ "...we can rebuild him, we have the technology... we just dont want to spend a lot of money." |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| CHEF |
|
|||
|
good work, does it all work ok?
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: Facebook [Bot], Majestic-12 [Bot] and 70 guests |
