Hi. Sorry about this post i know it can be annoying for some that have seen this question helps of times.
But to start this post off i want to let you know what im am planing to do. Want to know if its suitable for what im planing
anyway looking at a au vct engine for a turbo build then put that motor into a ef i already have au sump been modded. Looking at turboing with either t3 or t4 turbo
Also want to work the au engine things i want to do
bigger cam
valve springs
port and polish
Maybe pistons as ive heard au pistons arnt great for big power but not really looking for big number
goal is 300rwk at most be happy with 250rwk upwards.
Looking a msd coil pack and leads but have no idea if that makes a difference so just better coil and leads
bigger injectors
intake plenum from snort proformance.
So what i really need help with is. Is i worth getting vct au engine for this build for start. If so i want to know everything i need for a au transplant. This engine im looking at has NO crank angle sensor or coil pack does that matter for this swap just worried about ignition problems like dizzys and dizzy gearing not matching and coil pack to match up with what ever but mainly syncronised assembly im worried about.
so just need to know what i need from each engine to make this swap work

i maybe wrong ?? ... but my understanding is re changing cams ect on VCT is .... just use the standard motor

Ok so the cams are a pain in the a** are they. Is there wiring issues as well using a vct.

Don't use the VCT Engine, waste of time, use the STD or HP AU engine. See below for further info.

Things required to fit AU engine to EF/EL (updated 15/02/14)

1) Sump needs to be modified to fit K-Frame, you can cut and weld the K-Frame but that is up to you, will need engineering after being cut. You cannot use an EF/EL sump as the sump is totally different to AU. There is are cases of the E series sump being used but filler plates or large quantities of sealant wre used, not recommended. Also you loose the advantage of the cross bolting of the AU sump when using the E series sump, one of the major strength points of using the AU Block.

2) You need to use AU/BF alternator or you will need to modify the block and drill and tap mount points to mount the EF/EL alternator.
If you use an AU I alternator you will need to change the plug for the alternator to one from an AUI as these are different from the Mitsubishi alternators.
Note: The AUII & III and BA alternators have the same plug as EF/EL.

3) Remove the Oil Drive Block where the Dizzy (EL) or cam sensor (EF) goes and remove the gear from the shaft and fit to your Dizzy (EL) or Cam Sensor (EF). This will then mean that the gears are matching and you should have no issue’s, there have been issues with dizzy’s failing when this has not been done. Some modding will be required to use the existing mount point, extra notch in the clamp plate or grind the tab off the Cam sensor.
Note:Do not try and drill hole in existing EF position on AU block, you will drill through the block.

4) You will need to use an EF/EL thermostat housing as these have your temp sensor and AU housings do not. You could use the EB type if you wish as this has an extra fitting for an additional sensor is required at a later date.

5) You will need to use the EF/EL BBM as the upper section is different to the AU. Also use the EF/EL throttle body as some of the plugs are different to the AU.

6) Use the EF/EL wiring loom.

7) You will need to tap the block on an AUII/III Block with an M12 1.5 tap if using the EF/EL Knock sensor. AUI is already tapped with the correct thread for the EF/EL Knock Sensor. If using the AU sensor you will need to modify the plug.

8) a) You will need to cut the EF/EL AC pump mount spacers down to 30mm to suit the AU block as well as shortening the bolts by 10mmm if using the AU alternator to suit the standard serpentine belt.
b) If using the EF/EL alternator with modified mounts you will not need to cut down the mounts and be able to use the standard Serpentine belt.
c) Alternatively you can use the AU alternator , standard AC spacers and a Serpentine belt from an XH (Slightly longer).

9) Use the EF/EL power steering pump. This is a direct bolt up. The AU pump hose connection is different to the EF/EL.

10) You do not need to change the Harmonic balancer for either EL (Dizzy) or EF Coil Pack.

11) If fitting to EF you will need to use your original Coil Pack or an AUI coil pack as these are different to AUII & III. (different plug) You can use an AUII/III coil but the plug with need to be changed as well as different leads.

12) You can use the AU head or fit you EF/EL head, that is up to you.

Yeah sweet good info that is. seen it last night but dont fully understand the follow info
just dont fully understand the gearing and dizzys and coils all ingniton stuff about this build i dont understand between the au and ef.

10) You do not need to change the Harmonic balancer for either EL (Dizzy) or EF Coil Pack.

11) If fitting to EF you will need to use your original Coil Pack or an AUI coil pack as these are different to AUII & III. (different plug) You can use an AUII/III coil but the plug with need to be changed as well as different leads.

7) You will need to tap the block on an AUII/III Block with an M12 1.5 tap if using the EF/EL Knock sensor. AUI is already tapped with the correct thread for the EF/EL Knock Sensor. If using the AU sensor you will need to modify the

3) Remove the Oil Drive Block where the Dizzy (EL) or cam sensor (EF) goes and remove the gear from the shaft and fit to your Dizzy (EL) or Cam Sensor (EF). This will then mean that the gears are matching and you should have no issue’s, there have been issues with dizzy’s failing when this has not been done. Some modding will be required to use the existing mount point, extra notch in the clamp plate or grind the tab off the Cam sensor. 
Note:Do not try and drill hole in existing EF position on AU block, you will drill through the block.

Is it even worth doing a build to a Au engine what are the adventages

What don't you understand?