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Caviar |
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Hi guys,
Been around a while, never really posted but having a few issues that I haven't been able to resolve through searching as I would otherwise normally. Firstly in the attached picture there is a loose spring next to the throttle body... WTF is it and is it important? Secondly, and this has happened twice now (about six weeks apart) - I'd be sitting happily idling at the set of lights, light turns green and I start to accelerate where the car would promptly die, and I can't get her started again without a jump start. The first time I couldn't even get the car to crank (which led me to think the battery) but this second time it was still cranking but it just wouldn't start. Any ideas where to start looking for the problem? Thirdly, I need to replace the extension housing seal. I have the seal, but its mentioned I need to replace the bolts for the prop shaft as they are a special "lock tight coated" bolt of sorts. Where can I get these from and what size do I need to get before I start pulling them apart? Your help is appreciated TIA
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SpeedyED |
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What car is it?
EDIT: Is it an EL?
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BSSXR8 |
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That spring is a return type spring for the throttle body, I once had one snap on me and it made the car difficult to drive as the accel pedal had no pressure behind it, so it made it stabby. Was a little hard to drive as I had a manual.
The car dying after taking off- a lot of the time this could be an earth to the engine loose or bad connection. When the engine rocks enough from taking off it can unsettle a connection and cause it to drop out. You could test the earths using a multimeter in continuity mode and get someone to rev the engine, Id prob also check the battery and alternator for correct working. If the bolts come with a locking compound on them you can re-use them by cleaning them up and applying thread locker/ loctite. Hope this helps, keep us updated |
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Caviar |
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Thanks for the replies folks, yeah sorry i should've mentioned it is an EL
Hopefully i should be able to get the spring replaced easily enough, hasn't cause too much of an issue as yet... I'd hazard to say its a bad earth, at idle to accelerating its barely getting any revs up but i'll check it out all the same. |
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BSSXR8 |
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You can still buy them from a Ford dealer. I think they are about $5. The colour of the spring differs with model type and trans.
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joolz |
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With the driveshaft flange bolts you will need an 18mm ring spanner and either a 15mm socket or ring spanner. They will be hard to crack but if you got muscles you will be fine. Just make sure to put the driveshaft back in original position. The diff flange will have a yellow marking which should line up to the yellow dot next to the driveshaft's weld seam, for the front remove the shaft with the front dot facing down and then put trans into park so the output shaft doesnt move.
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Caviar |
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Got it thanks joolz
Also heard that they need to be tightened to 75nm torque? So the gregory's manual says |
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mitchg911 |
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i wish you the best of luck getting a torque wrench in there...
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joolz |
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Caviar wrote: Got it thanks joolz
Also heard that they need to be tightened to 75nm torque? So the gregory's manual says Just use loctite and do them tight. |
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FordFairmont |
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Posts: 6113 Joined: 8th May 2007 |
yeah 70nm is technical term for "very f**k tight"
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Caviar |
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Awesome cheers for the info fellas.
Car's been running fine today, still not sure why it just would randomly stop like it did yesterday and the time before... something to ponder on I guess and hope it doesn't happen again. It was only serviced two weeks ago so its really got me stumped. Edit: Car died on me again tonight, RAC guy was 90% sure its the ignition module. So off to the auto sparky |
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