Hello,

I have a leak in the high pressure streering hose from the power steering pump and am abput to replace it.

I have a new high pressure hose but would like to know how to go about it as the workshop manual is not straight forward.


If anyone has replaced theirs can you let me know how it was done and whether I need to purchase O rings or seals.

How did you drain the fluid from the steering pump and how did you bleed the air from the system?


Any help on this is appreciated.


Thanks

Hey buddy...

Watched my old man do this before...

Usually you only have to replace the nut on the pump end as it is what leaks... The hard part is it is held on with an internal circlip and you need to measure how deep the circlip is down inside it by measuring the new one and then marking the old one and very carefully cutting down to it with an angle grinder to cut the nut in half round ways and then you can remove the circlip and the now two nuts... New one simply slides to click on...

If you are insisting to replace the whole hose... (bet it wasn't cheap)... The old man simply found a bolt of similar thread and undone the high pressure hose and then very quickly screwed a bolt in it to keep the fluid in the pump...

I do believe there is an o ring on the end of the pipe that goes into the pump as most people commonly think this is what needs replacing when it leaks... In fact it is the o ring inside the nut that leaks and hence needing to replace the whole nut... As for the pump end I have no idea never seen a hose taken off there... Your Ford dealer should have it and info on it if there is one there...

As far as bleeding the system you fill the pump so you can't see the impeller... Then start the car and turn the wheel from lock to lock IIRC... Do it a few times and check the fluid level... Top up... And I am pretty sure that is all that there is to it... Someone here may have more info...

Also if you are removing the hose at the rack then I am sure whether loading the wheel the valve in the rack sits in the neutral position (bypass) and you may find the return hose may gravity feed back out of the pump... You may need to clamp this hose to prevent it from happening...

Hope that sheds some light mate...

Cheers,
Tim

Timmy A,

Thanks for your reply. much appreciated. Hmmm, not straight forward as it seems hey!!

I have noticed the leak is coming out between the nut which screws onto the steering pump and the part the nut attaches onto the high pressure hose...it only happens when you move it as it can slide backwards and forwards and have noticed fluid on the cement floor on the occassion.

I purchased a new high pressure hose (managed to get one for $20.00) suitable for Ford Falcon AU II.

I might go to the wreckers and scavange a steering pump and play with that one before doing the job on mine.

Thanks again, Peter

You might want to go and buy a new NUT that screws into the pump that is at the end of the hose. You will need to replace this nut as it WON'T come off the end of the hose.

Part number for the NEW Nut is BA 3F656 B and $12.80 from a Ford dealer and you will need Oring/s for the end of the pipe that goes into the rack, part number N 803257 S $3.30 each.

I would just have a CLEAN plastic container sitting underneath the back of the pump when you release the hose to catch the fluid but I wouldn't suggest using it again. I recently changed the low pressure hose on my AU XR6 and you WILL need to undo the bolt that holds the bracket to the cross-member to release the hoses.
When you are ready to put the NEW High Pressure hose in, make sure you put the NEW nut into the pump FIRST before you push the hose in.

If the new hose you bought has a nut at the pump end, I would suggest removing it with either an Angle Grinder or a Hacksaw, just make sure you have it in a vice.

Papa Smurf,

Many thanks for your reply and instructions.

Modern vehicles does make life complicated a bit.

Thanks.

Peter

Hello again.

I decided to take a photo of the problem relating to the high pressure hose, Please see photo.

The leakage has been noticed to leak between the actual hose connection .i.e the pipe that is crimped and is then held fast onto the power steering pump via the threaded nut from the hose.

I'm curious as to erason why I need to cut the end of the hose that contains the new threaded nut with seal as this is a critical component to stop the fluid from escaping / leaking from the power pump so I'm a bit confused as to why it needs to be cut.

Cheers, Peter

 

 

Attachments:

high pressure hose from power steering pump (Large).JPG [ 93.57 KiB | Viewed 1083 times ]

You might want to go and buy a new NUT that screws into the pump that is at the end of the hose. You will need to replace this nut as it WON'T come off the end of the hose
you split the nut-dont cut the pipe.nut has 1-2 o rings in the hole to seal the pipe,vibration wears the o rings.read above.the v8s the same

Hello again,

I have read the responses a couple of times in relation to cutting off the nut.

Hmmmm, I'm still trying to make sense of what was said about replacing the nut from the hose. i.e. the part that scews into the power steering pump.

The high pressure hose that is currently on the vehicle is faulty at the steering pump end as that is where the leak is coming from.

However, I have a new high pressure hose that already has a new nut that will screw into the steering pump end.

I'm trying to understand the logic as to why I need to cut or remove a new nut that is fixed onto a new high pressure hose. I would have thought the new high pressure hose with the new nut with 'o rings' would fix the problem.

So, with the new manufactured high pressure hose, I still need to cut the new nut that screws into the power steering unit, is this correct?. If I was to cut this new nut that is solidly attached to the new hose then surely the hose will not be able to be secured to the steering pump and then steering fluid would be lost....correct me if I'm wrong but I just cannot see the logic in this.

Cheers

 

 

Attachments:

high pressure hose from power steering pump (Large).JPG [ 97.83 KiB | Viewed 1088 times ]

thought i would chime in here.......... everyone has ignored the fact that you have already sourced a brand new HP hose, which should have a new fitting on it, it will be fine!!

it may not be as reliable as using the AUIII nut, but it will do for a while yet !!

and yes there is an o-ring for the bottom connection

regarding cutting the nut off to save buying a new HP hose, heres a pic from an ebay listing which is selling that replacement nut and showing where to cut

nice picks of nut,i thought he was going to fix the old one,and playing with the new,after the swap he can reco the old one or bin.i think he wanted to work out how the nut works.

Thanks guys,

Now I fully understand, phew, I thought I was going mad.

Good to see someone picked up that I already have a new HP hose.

Yes, I will play around with the old hose now that I undersand where the other guys were on about...all makes sense.

The job should be straight forward now...do I need to do anything or be aware of about the connection to the rack end?

Cheers, Peter

o ring required or if lucky reuse it and a oil tray,new oil and bleed.i use auto transmission oil n brap pootmar

Yes well my original posts noted your new hose...

I said normally people change the nut due to the expense of buying a whole hose...

As George said the nut is under $13 while I bet the retail on the hose is probably $60 or more... You got the hose for $20 so lucky you there... When it fails too I wouldn't rush out and buy another hose is what I'm saying... Changing the nuts is more cost effective and some cases easier because you don't need to disrupt the rack end of the hose either you can cut the nut off while it is still hooked to the rack...

Apparently grinding the side off as fordfairmont showed must work too... but we usually cut all the way around the nut with an angle grinder and a skinny blade right on top of the circlip and the back half falls off and you remove the circlip and then front of the nut comes off...

You will need an o ring as George said:



Like I said to me changing the nut is easier than changing the hose because with a couple of set of hands you can cut it off with having to get down to the rack and you're not disrupting an o ring that isn't leaking...

Totally your choice which way you wanna go with it though...

Cheers,
Tim

I've had to do this with both my AUII & BF. I split the nut along it's length on both sides just enough so you don't brake through, then carefully chisel the nut in half the rest of the way.

Having said this the first one I replaced was on the BF with 80,000km's and worked like clockwork, I must've got over-confident with the AU one (230,000kms) as I nicked the ridge that the o-ring seats on,trying to obsolete the chisel, fail lol.
copper based silicone fixed it though.


$60 for a high pressure hose sounds cheap.
Try buying a nissan one lol

haha... worst luck... I know that type of day... bit of a*** language and then your scratching the noggin trying to see what you have handy that'll fix the problem...

the reason we measure down to the circlip on the new nut and then cut around on top of the circlip on the old nut is it means you cango a bit further than the nut and you only hit the circlip not the pipe (as long as you don't get too carried away and measured it right)...