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Higher oil pressure after cam swap + rattling noise 

 

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 Post subject: Re: Higher oil pressure after cam swap + rattling noise
Posted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 2:50 pm 
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it needs to be released while the retainer bolt is tight, otherwise to much pressure and the guides will break
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 Post subject: Re: Higher oil pressure after cam swap + rattling noise
Posted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 3:28 pm 
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The chain is tight and has not much play , I started it and the noise Is gone, but I can never get the chain tight while the retainer is in , all I did was twist it out 2 turns, pushed it in the put the retainer in.
I know the retainer is springing out when i did it before but it's not making the chain tight enough,

The chain is tight when I crank it forward but when I crank it backwards the guide moves and pushes the retainer in making the chain very loose,

They way I have it now is good except the chain is too tight .

What should I do ???

 

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 Post subject: Re: Higher oil pressure after cam swap + rattling noise
Posted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 6:07 pm 
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wait what? what did i say? tensioner wasn't right? what do i win?

 

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 Post subject: Re: Higher oil pressure after cam swap + rattling noise
Posted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 6:19 pm 
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U win the satisfaction of being right :lol:

Im positive I know why it's not working when te retainer is tight my tube is too small and it's pushing the thing with the Allen key hole there fore pushing in the spring and not releasing the tensioner enough, so I've got thicker tube and I'll give it another shot ,

Will my car be ok until Monday arvo with a tight chain ? I'm keeping under 2500 rpm

 

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 Post subject: Re: Higher oil pressure after cam swap + rattling noise
Posted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 6:29 pm 
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if it's extremely tight you run the risk of either snapping a chain or flogging the guides out real quick

 

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 Post subject: Re: Higher oil pressure after cam swap + rattling noise
Posted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 6:41 pm 
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WILDEB wrote:
if it's extremely tight you run the risk of either snapping a chain or flogging the guides out real quick


I don't think it's extremely tight , I can crank it my hand although the chain had little to no play

 

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 Post subject: Re: Higher oil pressure after cam swap + rattling noise
Posted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 6:59 pm 
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if its overly tight you will hear a whering noise while its running
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 Post subject: Re: Higher oil pressure after cam swap + rattling noise
Posted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 7:04 pm 
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Yes I can hear that noise as I rev it, I got a Allen key with 8mm tube so I'll re set it monday arvo and hope it survives until then,

 

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 Post subject: Re: Higher oil pressure after cam swap + rattling noise
Posted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 7:11 pm 
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ef_falcon_95 wrote:
Yes I can hear that noise as I rev it, I got a Allen key with 8mm tube so I'll re set it monday arvo and hope it survives until then,


After reading 4 pages, you really seem to making a simple job hard.

Tensioner needs to be fully compressed and the engine set at TDC #1 by turning the engine clockwise only. Put a screw driver as a lever behind the left guide to keep tension. This will ensure all the slack of the chain is on the tensioner side.

Put the tensioner back in its hole, making sure its lined up on the guide. Put the retainer in. Then stick a 3mm allen key in its clacker and turn anti clockwise. You'll hear it spring open. And at this stage you should have no more than 2mm of chain deflection on the cam sprocket.

If thats the case, you win, its set properly.

You can't turn these engines anti clockwise as it looses tension doing this and can jump teeth. If you turn it backwards, you need to turn it another 1/4 to 1/2 turn, then turn it forwards to regain chain tension.

WILDEB wrote:
wait what? what did i say? tensioner wasn't right? what do i win?


You win nothing since you said earlier on that the tensioner does not need oil to run. The spring is only there to keep tension when the car is off and starting. High pressure oil is used to keep the tension when the car is running.
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 Post subject: Re: Higher oil pressure after cam swap + rattling noise
Posted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 7:28 pm 
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arm79 wrote:
ef_falcon_95 wrote:
Yes I can hear that noise as I rev it, I got a Allen key with 8mm tube so I'll re set it monday arvo and hope it survives until then,


After reading 4 pages, you really seem to making a simple job hard.

Tensioner needs to be fully compressed and the engine set at TDC #1 by turning the engine clockwise only. Put a screw driver as a lever behind the left guide to keep tension. This will ensure all the slack of the chain is on the tensioner side.

Put the tensioner back in its hole, making sure its lined up on the guide. Put the retainer in. Then stick a 3mm allen key in its clacker and turn anti clockwise. You'll hear it spring open. And at this stage you should have no more than 2mm of chain deflection on the cam sprocket.

If thats the case, you win, its set properly.

You can't turn these engines anti clockwise as it looses tension doing this and can jump teeth. If you turn it backwards, you need to turn it another 1/4 to 1/2 turn, then turn it forwards to regain chain tension.

WILDEB wrote:
wait what? what did i say? tensioner wasn't right? what do i win?


You win nothing since you said earlier on that the tensioner does not need oil to run. The spring is only there to keep tension when the car is off and starting. High pressure oil is used to keep the tension when the car is running.


I knew oil pressure kept it tight :lol:
I made it hard cos first I used a screw driver then used too small diameter tube , but this time I'm bound to get it right lol

 

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 Post subject: Re: Higher oil pressure after cam swap + rattling noise
Posted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 7:36 pm 
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ef_falcon_95 wrote:
I knew oil pressure kept it tight :lol:
I made it hard cos first I used a screw driver then used too small diameter tube , but this time I'm bound to get it right lol


I was more informing our know-all only just-ex apprentice mechanic. :D

And I was more concerned you seemed to be spinning the engine back and forwards and confusing the possible problem because of what was happening with the chain and it doing something it wasn't designed to do.
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 Post subject: Re: Higher oil pressure after cam swap + rattling noise
Posted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 7:38 pm 
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arm79 wrote:
ef_falcon_95 wrote:
I knew oil pressure kept it tight :lol:
I made it hard cos first I used a screw driver then used too small diameter tube , but this time I'm bound to get it right lol


I was more informing our know-all only just-ex apprentice mechanic. :D

And I was more concerned you seemed to be spinning the engine back and forwards and confusing the possible problem because of what was happening with the chain and it doing something it wasn't designed to do.



Yes I know who u were informing ,
So by turning the engine backwards what's the worst that could happen ??
The chain skipping a tooth ??

 

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 Post subject: Re: Higher oil pressure after cam swap + rattling noise
Posted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 7:42 pm 
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You could skip a tooth on the crank or aux sprockets if the guides are a bit rooted, because the chain would be getting quite slack on the bottom of the engine, where you can't see.

But since you've started the engine and theres no problems, im guessing it hasn't skipped a tooth.

I would also have expected the oil pressure to self adjust the tensioner once the car started too. It sounds like it was unlocked properly, but something was preventing it from self adjusting
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 Post subject: Re: Higher oil pressure after cam swap + rattling noise
Posted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 7:48 pm 
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When I release i can hear one click but I can't get the second click cos my tube is too small in diameter and when I push it in it just pushes the spring in, but even when the chain is really loose shouldn't the oil tighten it up , or is the tensioner not sprung out enough therefore preventing it from doing that ??

 

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 Post subject: Re: Higher oil pressure after cam swap + rattling noise
Posted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 8:00 pm 
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Don't worry about this tube thing. I don't really know anyone here who's used a tube. I never have and have never had a problem.

Just put the allen key in the back and turn until you cant turn no more. You should feel it click past the first tooth and then onto the second and maybe a third. But if it turns no more, its unlocked as much as it can. You might need to put a bit of force into it.

But even if its only partially released, the oil pressure should push the tensioner piston far enough forward to lift over the teeth on the housing and it will move upto the next tooth by itself.

Maybe because of the slackness in the chain it phyically couldn't on your first few trys.
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