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| fordriver1 |
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i added a cold air intake on my old car- a zk 6 fairlane. 90mm stormwater pipe straight out of bottom of stock airbox to road with 45^ bend on end pointin forward with flared openning on end for ram flo effect. took about 1 SECOND off my 0- 100 time!!! cost $25. cheapest performance per dollar mod i ever did!!!
_________________ there are three types of people in this world:
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| Johnson stroker |
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No Turbo is eternal lag..
Seriously though.. this whole site pretty much is dedicated to making your car go harder. there are SO many things you can do.. set yourself a budget.. exceed that budget and never look back!!
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| fordriver1 |
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set yourself a budget.. exceed that budget and never look back!![/quote]
right on.....
_________________ there are three types of people in this world:
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| Glowing EF |
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yeh my ef was real slow and kept lagging, so i changed my leads plugs and injectors, and cleaned throttle body... problem fixed
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| Netiralesis |
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So cleaning my throttlebody and injectors really do that much though?
I am currently devising a way to install and pod in my air intake, also this weekend goin to get exhaust and extractors priced up organised Any carbby work i could do? |
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| Netiralesis |
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So cleaning my throttlebody and injectors really do that much though?
I am currently devising a way to install and pod in my air intake, also this weekend goin to get exhaust and extractors priced up organised Any carbby work i could do? |
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| Grimketel |
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cheapest "mod" to make an auto go faster off the mark is to adjust your driving style.
Dont plant it from stationary. The engine management will retard your torque curve to save the gearbox. 1/4 throttle until you are about 10-20ks per hour then open it up. Be very light on the throttle until you get some movement. You will get more torque from the motor than planting it. Other than that diff change or change to manual is best.
_________________ enough isn't enough |
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| EA-II Wagon |
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More Grunt wrote: cheapest "mod" to make an auto go faster off the mark is to adjust your driving style.
Dont plant it from stationary. The engine management will retard your torque curve to save the gearbox. 1/4 throttle until you are about 10-20ks per hour then open it up. Be very light on the throttle until you get some movement. You will get more torque from the motor than planting it. Other than that diff change or change to manual is best. Or start in second till you get around 40 Kph then crack it into first and jump on it, you should hit second again around 90 Kph then D at around 140
_________________ http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v203/war01/RMDW-1.jpg
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| stockstandard |
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More Grunt wrote: Dont plant it from stationary. The engine management will retard your torque curve to save the gearbox.
I am pretty sure torque reduction was only introduced in the AU1 for I6's and even then it was only a very small amount.
_________________ Stoke me a clipper, I'll be back for Christmas |
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| GeZza200 |
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Yeah i think planting it off the line is best for me, even if i do get wheel spin. Some wheel spin actualy helps i think, gets the revs up quicker then when it grips its just grabs an shoots off. Might be wrong but thats how it feels
_________________ EL Futura: CVE head, Wolf V500, ICE Ignition and Coil, 36lb injectors, Walbro 255lb, Paci comps, 3" exhaust, T5, Harrop Truetrac with 3.9s. Now with 198.9rwkw, (~185rwkw and 13.80 @99.1mph) with more power to come |
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| Netiralesis |
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disregard the kast kine of the last post, was alittle drunk at the time,
anyone got any hints of what to do with the thrittle body manifold? cand find anythin in the stiky's |
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| Netiralesis |
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but the thing is i cant even get wheel spinnage, i do have new tyres on but hey i should get atleast something
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| Glowing EF |
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try replacing injectors $90 reco off ebay, fuel filter also, if its blocked will reduce fuel flow
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| Kenwood Maverick |
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hey dude, can we get some more specs on her, like is she a multi point or a CPI?? best thing to do firstly is don't use a pod, the panel filters flow better just whack an XH snorkel on her and its as best as it gets, the induction flow to the throttle body is huge on the ea, can upgrade throttle body to 70mm but useless without cam and head work. leave the log manifold, its the best it gets unless you get it honed then its even better. a clean of the injectors or replace for $90 as stated is good, but do the fuel filter first and throw some injector cleaner in tank and see if it is better.
Mods to do Xtractors and zorst, get decent headers mate for the ea either genies or comps, 2 and 1/2 is fine, cut out the rear resi if you want a better note. XH snorkel on the induction pipe (bout $50) decent filter too ($100) If its the s**t 3spd auto, blow it up, then put a 5sp manual in her, change to lsd while you here Then start with top end, drop in a cam (CMS in sydney is the go for one of these), get some head work done, porting etc, and then up the compression. Hope this helps dude Also sneding cyber slap for wanting a pod on a EA |
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| Netiralesis |
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cheers kenwood you have helped alot mate, really got me thinkin of what to do
Any other seggestions |
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