Ive changed my tfi module and had major grief getting to run right .
So you trawl the forums for advice but only seem to get snippets and struggle fitting your distributor over and over again (too tight to buy a manual) trying to get some sort of base timing so here is what Ive found .
Remove rad fan unit (good access to crank ) remove no 1 s/plug use a screw driver in the bore to detect top dead centre of cyl 1 as you turn crank (22mm/7/8 socket) align damper timing mark with pointer .
With idle control valve removed for access insert distributor .
The plastic cover under the rotor arm has a "start" and a "finish" markings on it these are the timing adjustment between these two points, So insert the distributor with the tfi plug facing you/touching the block and have the rotor arm pointing to finish(remember the arm will turn slightly as you insert the distributor so position and allow for this) you will need to turn the crank clockwise as you push down on the rotor arm to get the distributor to locate fully home.
once its fully home reposition tdc at the crank timing mark and check when you turn the distributor through its full adjustment you can achieve "finish" to "start" and back again.
Now fit the lock plate/bolt with the distributor on "finish" refit the cap / idle valve etc all but the top of the air filter box and start the engine (if you have problems starting you may need to slightly adjust the distributor until it will start)allow to warm to operating temperature then follow the instructions exactly to this link failure to do so will cause you grief (believe me )

http://www.injectronics.com.au/index.ph ... &Itemid=34

this puts the ecm in a learn mode if you like allowing the timing adjustment (which is 0degrees +/-2)

I found it ran like a bought one and finally put a smile on my face.

Thanks for the info I'll find this very handy in the next couple of weeks. Everytime I've removed and then replaced the dizzy I've always seemed to fluke putting it back right. Now I can see how it's supposed to go in so I'll know it's right next time. cheers.

Hi, im having this drama at this very point in time, just reswapped engines to put my original engine back in, and the other bloke that works with me decided he was gonna pull the dizzy out while the engine was out so we could paint the block, and hes put the dizzy back in and now she wont start.. my dizzy doesnt have start/finish marks on it, and i was told to get the engine on tdc, so number 1 cyl is at the top, and set the dizzy to line up dead on number one lead, which ive done, but sadly still no go.. and its rather urgent due to it being my only car, so any help would be apprectiated, cheers

I have a similar problem, how did you do it after all?

The first part is crystal clear but the second part is a link to a no longer existing web page.
Does anyone know how to do the base timing? No one seems to want to talk about it

The "base timing" for an EL is the setting of the distributor. One needs to make sure that the TDC that you find is the COMPRESSION stroke, and not TDC on the EXHAUST stroke.

The correct TDC is found beforeremoving the dist.

If the engine has been rotated for any reason, the rocker cover should be removed, and TDC compression found by watching the valves on #1 cylinder.(both closed on compression stroke)

"Proper timing" is done by putting the ECU into "learn" mode. I am sure that there must be a thread here somewhere about that.



THIS SHOULD READ POINTING TO "START"!!!

rotor should now point to "FINISH"

Only if the dist doesn't match up with the oil pump drive, and then only probably a few degrees of turn of the crank. Any more than that, something is wrong.



Only need to rotate dist to "FINISH" position.

It really doesn't matter where you place the TFI unit in relation to the engine block. My TFI unit runs parallel to the block, as it is easier to get to. The Dist cap only goes on one way, and, as long as the plug leads are in the correct holes, everything will work