|
| gogetta |
|
|||
|
GeZza200 wrote: ok thats nice to know, what about the smaller intake ports i think it is? does that matter much?
not sure....have to have another look but from what i remember the port shape is better in the AU
_________________ |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| SgtBourne |
|
||
|
the cam would have to be pretty severe i would have thought to launch you over 150rwkw..
in saying that, as long as you dont mind a lumpyass idle and doughy low end, you should be sweet
_________________ So much RAM the motherboard twisted off the POST. |
||
| Top | |
||
| FordFairmont |
|
||
Posts: 6113 Joined: 8th May 2007 |
you will be very lucky to make over 140kw at the wheels with just a mild cam and worked head through an auto. Auto's suck power
If your serious about power/performance, you need to go a big cam and a dyno tuned chip to make it work in your car. You will also need some heavy duty valve springs. Forget about spending big money on porting, bigger valves etc for the time being, your money will go further elsewhere for now. First thing " i " would do in order is: 4.11 lsd diff gears 3000rpm high stall, and tranny cooler 1521a Wade cam, Valve springs and Chiptorque with dyno tune Things like high stall and diff gears dont give you more power, but will greatly increase the performance. |
||
| Top | |
||
| GeZza200 |
|
||
|
ok i went down this morning and they quoted me $2850
They said porting the head will do barely anything and ul be lucky to get 5kw from it. They are going to use a custom billet cam, vernier gear, heavy duty valve springs, not sure about new valves and they are going to put a unichip in and dyno tune it. He said it will be about 160-170rwkw when its done. What do you think? is it worth it? Also i am on the look out for diff gears, just havn't had anyluck. I dont watn a high stall though as its my daily driver.
_________________ EL Futura: CVE head, Wolf V500, ICE Ignition and Coil, 36lb injectors, Walbro 255lb, Paci comps, 3" exhaust, T5, Harrop Truetrac with 3.9s. Now with 198.9rwkw, (~185rwkw and 13.80 @99.1mph) with more power to come |
||
| Top | |
||
| FordFairmont |
|
||
Posts: 6113 Joined: 8th May 2007 |
Ok, this is friendly advice please dont take it the wrong way
if you dont want to change the stall, then forget about any running any decent cam. Your best sticking with a small cam that works in the mid range to low revs. That way you dont have to change valve springs either In my opinion the diff should be first as that will give you the most "bang for buck" and you will feel more difference in performance than any worked head/cam combo behind a stock stall and stock diff ratio. Doesnt matter how much power you make if the gearing is all f**k, and the BTR has a horrible first gear. The standard stall is around 2200rpm i think, which suits the factory cam's power range. Any bigger cam is gonna make power up higher and your going to have a flat spot till you reach the right revs if you keep the standard stall As for the quote you were given..... Crow Springs.................... 120 Billet cam.......................... 400 Chiptorque plus dyno tune.. 900........ not sure how much unichip is? Vernier gear...................... 150 Thats a total of $1570 in parts and tuning time. So do they want the remaining $1280 to go towards labour?  Try $400 in labour sounds more realistic
If it includes new valves then i can understand the price cause they have to remove the head, but if it doesnt include valves then tell them to go f**k themselves |
||
| Top | |
||
| metasaiah |
|
|||
|
I think the other issue here is that you're looking for big power out of your daily driver. The two are not really compatible unless you are prepared to pay the fuel/maintenance premium and live with it; not only that but there's the matter of actually driving a car with that power (and those revs) everywhere you go - long trips, wet weather, family etc all need consideration. I don't wanna dampen your enthusiasm, especially since I have similar ambitions, but then I do have the option of another car as a daily.
_________________ EF2 Fairmont Ghia. AU2 engine running EF gear. Intake, exhaust, injection etc; 8" rear stockies with 265/50R15 rubber. Shiftkitted auto, J3, custom grille and dash cluster and lots of other useless crap... |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| mystery |
|
||
|
if you have an auto then you really are rooted since you'll need a high stall for most of the bigger cams.
i have a camtech stage 1, pulls nicely from 2 grand onward but by no means massive power. great torque though for fun driving. convert to manual if you wanna run a bigger cam. wade, surecam, cresent etc. i recommend camtech thoroughly and if you can't install it get cresent to do it, great prices on labour. |
||
| Top | |
||
| GeZza200 |
|
||
|
ok so diff gears before i go any futher with power.
I also went to SVO this morning and they quoted me 850 mark. For a custom billet cam, heavy duty valves springs and all installed. He said i will pick up around 25rwkw from it and i will notice quite a big difference.
_________________ EL Futura: CVE head, Wolf V500, ICE Ignition and Coil, 36lb injectors, Walbro 255lb, Paci comps, 3" exhaust, T5, Harrop Truetrac with 3.9s. Now with 198.9rwkw, (~185rwkw and 13.80 @99.1mph) with more power to come |
||
| Top | |
||
| willsace |
|
|||
|
jmm, sure cam, cresent motorsport just to name a few will get you 150+ @wheels. im just not sure why people dobt it so quickly. i put a jmm dev3hl into my dads auto EA and it pulls around 135rwkw easy. with an ef head and full exhaust. 150rwkw aint that hard to get
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| SgtBourne |
|
||
|
people doubt JMM because unless you plan to spend a mint with them, you get the feeling they couldnt give 2 sh*ts about you.
also a lot of people have had things go wrong with their setups down the track. couple that with the intense prices they charge, it's not hard to see why people go to other tuning houses. sounds like a pretty good deal Gez, did they give you much info on the cam? i'd assume (as i wrote earlier) it'll be a fairly violent cam (ie. nothing down low, then once around the 3,000rpm mark it'll kick you in the teeth). the 4.11 gears will get you accelerating a hell of a lot quicker, but won't affect your KW's
_________________ So much RAM the motherboard twisted off the POST. |
||
| Top | |
||
| Joesau |
|
||
|
why dont you try Chris at Blue power! hes pretty awsome with 6's, he got a Au 6 to pull 149rwkw on a stock cam, healthy car motor gearbox etc. Ring around if your keen to do it, with a Auto you are limited because its gonna cost a little more to setup correctly right stall, right gears in the diff, it all depends how committed you are. go all out.
|
||
| Top | |
||
| green machine |
|
|||
|
mate don't worry about 4.11 gears as a daily driver on the highway it will be revving it's head off. go 3.45 or 3.7's.
as for cams there is a few out there, i'm running a cms stg2 cam and head with a custom auto and on his dyno i hit 143rwkw and on others have hit 149rwkw, mine's nothing big a mild cam and head work, and also running a 3500rpm high stall and mine is a daily driver. so do some research and have a think what you want
_________________ custom airbox,custom intake |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| FordFairmont |
|
||
Posts: 6113 Joined: 8th May 2007 |
metasaiah wrote: I think the other issue here is that you're looking for big power out of your daily driver. The two are not really compatible unless you are prepared to pay the fuel/maintenance premium and live with it
ive never really understood the philosophy of having a daily driver means it cant be modded? My daily driven family car has a decent sized cam, really short diff considering its behind an EA t5 and it revs its f**k tits off on the highway..... big deal? So it does 2400rpm at 100kph, my family doesnt care, the car runs sweet and always normal temp, fuel economy is 9L/100km on the highway and 13L/100km around town which is quite good considering. If i reduce the engine's life by 20% then so be it, at least i had a smile on my face the whole time 
|
||
| Top | |
||
| green machine |
|
|||
|
4.11's will be sitting on close to 3000rpms on the highway with an auto and he wants something mild not crazy.
_________________ custom airbox,custom intake |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| gogetta |
|
|||
|
FordFairmont wrote: metasaiah wrote: I think the other issue here is that you're looking for big power out of your daily driver. The two are not really compatible unless you are prepared to pay the fuel/maintenance premium and live with it ive never really understood the philosophy of having a daily driver means it cant be modded? My daily driven family car has a decent sized cam, really short diff considering its behind an EA t5 and it revs its f**k tits off on the highway..... big deal? So it does 2400rpm at 100kph, my family doesnt care, the car runs sweet and always normal temp, fuel economy is 9L/100km on the highway and 13L/100km around town which is quite good considering. If i reduce the engine's life by 20% then so be it, at least i had a smile on my face the whole time hooray, someone that can think for themselves.....
_________________ |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: Google Adsense [Bot] and 86 guests |
