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4LEDboy |
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Teh suspense is killing me!
Is it going?
_________________ Adelaide Motorplex < Click on it! You know you want too! Quote: Thats not the point *a**hole
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dsyfer |
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4LEDboy wrote: Teh suspense is killing me! Is it going? Not yet Made the dumb mistake of not checking that my old laptop had a serial port... so had to go chasing a USB-Serial adapter, found one. Got it hooked up, Calibrated TPS (works well) checked for fuel leaks (none) went to turn the key and nothing, possibly Smart lock kicking in?? by that time it was too dark and too cold to check engine bay wiring. Would not having the factory injector and ignition loom plugged in screw with the ECU? and stop power to the starter?? Will have to research Smartlock bypass tomorrow. I think when I redo the engine bay I might bypass the ECU all together and run the sensors from the EMS. Suggestions to try first? Found a good EF ECU pinout diagram that I haven't seen on here yet. |
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4LEDboy |
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Yeah the power for the starter solenoid runs through the engine loom I reckon.
_________________ Adelaide Motorplex < Click on it! You know you want too! Quote: Thats not the point *a**hole
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dsyfer |
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4LEDboy wrote: Yeah the power for the starter solenoid runs through the engine loom I reckon. The loom is plugged in, but it is missing the injectors and coil circuit, might have to check if there was a common earth or 12v feed shared between them. |
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TerroristGHIA |
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On an EF/EL bypasssing the ecu totaly looses the Auto control, the dash, the climate control and a myriad of other things. Car should still run with the ECU hooked up but cut out of the fuel and ignition loop. Mine does/did while it ran.
Brett
_________________ The Terrorist ED Retired due to RUST. |
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dsyfer |
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Just got home from work, starter problem solved, rechecked engine bay loom, and found a loose plug
Cranked it with injectors and coils turned off, good oil pressure. Have to check on ignition setup in the EMS settings, as it won't quite start, fuel is good so guessing at the ignition settings. But now everything works, with a few tweaks and check boxes ticked it should be running by midmorning. Even bought a firewire cable today so I can download videos once it runs stay tuned.. |
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TROYMAN |
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i have a question?
do the ba coil on plug have built in igniters or are you using single coil igniters or batch fire??? |
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dsyfer |
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TROYMAN wrote: i have a question? do the ba coil on plug have built in igniters or are you using single coil igniters or batch fire??? No built in igniters, I have 2x 3-coil EMS igniters so it can run sequential spark. Just having probs with the trigger and sync setup in the ECU. |
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TROYMAN |
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ok .. cool..
this might help a little with setting up the ems.. here is some settings that i had when i had coil packs set up with crank sensor.. Multipoint 720 trigger edge ,Rising + ignition setting.. Missing tooth mode. no of teeth on Cam cycle- 72T No of teeth After Missing- 6T |
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dsyfer |
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TROYMAN wrote: ok .. cool.. this might help a little with setting up the ems.. here is some settings that i had when i had coil packs set up with crank sensor.. Multipoint 720 trigger edge ,Rising + ignition setting.. Missing tooth mode. no of teeth on Cam cycle- 72T No of teeth After Missing- 6T Cheers for that, that would mean two rotations per cycle. Do you know if the cam sensor is magnetic? |
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66 coupe |
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use TPS only for tuning initially, dont bother with MAP based as it will not work correctly,
Tune for 12.5-12.8 at > 85kpa and dont worry about light loads being too rich, as this is where you tune the secondary load once your tps based tune is spot on. You can use map as a second load source to pull fuel out with increasing vacuum. Tuning ITB's is completely different to tuning SD. Just be sure to set up your bins correctly for ITB's ie TPS% increments should be along the lines of 0, 1, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 100 % You need a lot of rows at small throttle openings and you will find yourself driving at < 10% TPS most of the time Do you still have the std computer in place, as it is needed for the temp gauge to operate. |
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dsyfer |
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No spark
Does anyone know what the cam sync sensor is? mag or Hall? I think it may be the coils though, as the 12v feed is getting rather hot. Might have to go back to standard coil pack to get it running, then figure it out. |
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66 coupe |
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check the ems output for the ignitors is set correctly, also sometimes when you write the tune to the ems can hold the coils on, which will usually burn out the ignitors.
ps if you want email me your current tune and i can have a quick look over the settings |
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dsyfer |
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66 coupe wrote: check the ems output for the ignitors is set correctly, also sometimes when you write the tune to the ems can hold the coils on, which will usually burn out the ignitors. ps if you want email me your current tune and i can have a quick look over the settings I think that is what happened, just re-checked everything from coils back, connections good, wiring good, relays good, earths good, but one if the igniters smells cooked what a prick, so the coils need to be turned off when writing to the EMS, lesson learned. Now, can I get it running with the original coil pack somehow? until I can get another igniter. If the second igniter is still ok, could this fire the original coilpack? or should I be chasing around for some LS1 coils. |
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66 coupe |
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What you can do is power the coils through a relay, triggered off the fuel pump relay signal, so the coils will only be powered when the fuel pump is, ie when its running.
If you still have a good 3 ch ignitor then you can use the std coil pack, might be worth getting it running with the std coil pack initially, saves burning up a handful of ba coils if it goes bad. with the std coil packs, get it running with no sync sensor first, then setup the sync sensor and sequential coils from there, will make it easier to get it running initially. set the timing to fixed 10deg initially until you confirm it with a timing light then start setting your fuel and timing tables. they like to idle with around 18+deg advance. |
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