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turbotrana |
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galapogos01 |
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Posts: 1139 Joined: 27th Feb 2005 Ride: Supercharged EF Fairmont Location: T.I. Performance HQ |
{USERNAME} wrote: So including the flange I estimate under $200 for materials. I know there's a bit of labour involved, but you're also only making a one-off... some people sell manifolds for a grand or more! That's a f*cking lot of margin!!! Are you using a good grade of stainless?
_________________ {DESCRIPTION} - {DESCRIPTION}, {DESCRIPTION}, {DESCRIPTION}, {DESCRIPTION} and more! |
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dsyfer |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: So including the flange I estimate under $200 for materials. I know there's a bit of labour involved, but you're also only making a one-off... some people sell manifolds for a grand or more! That's a f*cking lot of margin!!! Are you using a good grade of stainless? Sched 40 Mild carbon steel, 3.6mm wall thickness, the 90 degree bends are about $6 each, and the head flange will be $60 for a 12mm one, + time. Stainless might look prettier, but is a lot more expensive, not just for the material but also welding rods. All the big name guys seem to use the same Sched40 mild steel. |
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tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: So including the flange I estimate under $200 for materials. I know there's a bit of labour involved, but you're also only making a one-off... some people sell manifolds for a grand or more! That's a f*cking lot of margin!!! Are you using a good grade of stainless? Sched 40 Mild carbon steel, 3.6mm wall thickness, the 90 degree bends are about $6 each, and the head flange will be $60 for a 12mm one, + time. Stainless might look prettier, but is a lot more expensive, not just for the material but also welding rods. All the big name guys seem to use the same Sched40 mild steel. I've used both 6boost and Fantasy manifolds, they both use the same sched40 although the Fantasy one I used on an FJ20 needed an extra 6 hours of welding and porting. I've done a few basic turbo manifolds with same sched40 and not had any problems. When you have the cutting jig done supplying the collector in kit form might make you a few dollars |
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dsyfer |
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Few slight changes, I forgot to have the 20 degree flange angle to help with water flow.
Also found the buttweld elbows at Blackwoods for $3.89 each. |
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TROYMAN |
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are you going to set it up with an external waste gate??
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dsyfer |
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{USERNAME} wrote: are you going to set it up with an external waste gate?? Yep, just waiting to figure out size, dump etc, before deciding on where to have it. |
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MoNGooSE |
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what you cadding on there?
_________________ EF GT6 - 129.4rwkw - Feautured in Street Fords Issue #77 |
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dsyfer |
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{USERNAME} wrote: what you cadding on there? I use Google Sketchup, it is so much quicker than anything for modeling, it's free, has boolean, arrays, paths, lathe, animation, can export to auto-cad, can use external renderers etc I use to play with 3d Studio Max, Auto Cad etc, this s**t on them for 95% of stuff I need now. |
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tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
Whats the difference between having the flange at 20deg and have a level flange and setting the core at 20deg?
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FAST-XR |
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that flange looks mighty high, have you measured up for clearance?
_________________ 07 BF MKII XR6T |
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dsyfer |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Whats the difference between having the flange at 20deg and have a level flange and setting the core at 20deg? Not sure, just going by the Garret tech section on manifolds, that to help the water flow it is advisable to have the water inlet on the low side, which they suggest is easiest by tilting the turbo at 20 degrees from shaft rotation. |
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dsyfer |
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{USERNAME} wrote: that flange looks mighty high, have you measured up for clearance? Going by the specs for a GT35/40 it should clear the bonnet, before I weld though I will either get a turbo or make a mock up to check, I have left a bit of clearance around the engine mount, so I can lower the flange a bit if needed. |
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krisisdog |
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Like I mentioned earlier... why not just shorten up the collector a tad?
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