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Idle in ef is f***ed 

 

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 Post subject: Idle in ef is f***ed
Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2007 3:23 pm 
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Ride: EA svo turbo, ef Fairmontl

Location: melbourne
VIC, Australia

Hey guys n girls,

could someone please help me asap? my car when you first start it up is revving up to 2000rpm and then stalling but at the last millisecond it will shoot straight back up to 2000 rpm! it is dangerous because it does it at driving speeds too! especcially when slowing down from 60kmh!

 

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Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2007 4:28 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: EF Futura Wagon

Location: Toowoomba
QLD, Australia

Sounds like the ISC is getting stuck. The ECU keeps applying voltage to try and adjust for falling idle until finally it unsticks and you shoot up to 2000rpm.

Pull the ISC and clean thoroughly. Lubricate with a lithium grease (they come in aerosols to make it easier). Now set idle speed correctly. Disconnect ISC wiring and insert 0.75mm feeler between throttle stops. Put car into diagnostics, wait till idle stabilises (1-2mins), set to 700rpm in drive.

Then do this reset procedure:

First of all drive the car to normal engine temp and the thermostat has opened etc
Then to verify the correct idlespeed of the engine the following 4 steps should be taken with the vehicle being idled while stationary for approx 1-2 minute in each of the following conditions.
NOTE- DO NOT TOUCH THE ACCELERATOR DURING ANY PERIOD OF THE 5 FOLLOWING ADAPTIVE PROCESSES.

1. Neutral with all electrical loads OFF.
2. Neutral with Air conditioning ON.
3. Drive with all electrical loads OFF.
4. Drive with Air conditioning ON.

After all this has been done then proceed to go on and to do these steps which actually set the TPS values;

5. To set the closed throttle referance position , place the transmission
in Drive, Air con off, and let the engine idle for a minimum of 1 minute.
6. Next, set the wide-open throttle reference position by turning the
engine off- but leave the ignition switch to the "ON," position, ie;Idiot lights on etc, then press the accelerator
pedal to the floor and hold it their for 1 minute, minimum.
7. Then Place the gear selector to Park and switch off the ignition.
8. Drive the vehicle and check for proper shifting patterns.

cheers
Scott

 

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Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2007 4:37 pm 
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Location: adelaide
SA, Australia

I had the same problem ,so I fitted a new ICS and that fixed it
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Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2007 5:30 pm 
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Ride: EFII Sedan

Location: Brisbane
QLD, Australia

How much was your new ISC out of curiosity? I don't know if they are different from EB - EF in operation, but on my EF, the port is actually open a bit and has a very weak spring action. I'm wondering if the springs become corroded over time - which no amount of cleaning will fix.

 

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Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2007 7:14 pm 
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Replace the ISC. Its a motor driven actuator that will get worn and must be replaced.
Sometimes cleaning fixes it but not often.

 

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Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2007 9:00 pm 
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Makes me wonder why they moved from the electical motor control in CFI EA's, to the seemingly troublesome PWM'd solenoid in MPEFI...

 

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EF II Sedan
Ex Chaser, Dual Fuel (Impco LPG)
LSD High, 3.23, Black wheels, other shiny bits.

EB II Sedan <--- R.I.P. (Rest in pieces - gone to the wreckers for $50...... bargain!)

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Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 12:50 am 
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Ride: EA svo turbo, ef Fairmontl

Location: melbourne
VIC, Australia

tried that and those 2 things are what caused this!

 

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4.5.85 - 27.2.05

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Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 10:07 am 
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Ride: BA mk11 XR6T UTE ,v8 fairmont gh

Location: perth
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Long shot! But have a good look at your harmonic balancer, the outer ring could be slipping on the inner due to a shagged rubber insert that binds the 2. It may cause rough idling, and worse will cause your engine to idle all over the place, especially when you come to a brake stop and the engine revs on, then settles once you have stopped, but all of a sudden kicks up again and you havent touched the accelerator,VERY SCARY. It will eventually go and your car will feel like the engine is slapping around in the engine bay.
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