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Is a used AU2 thats had little maintenance worth keeping? 

 

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 Post subject: Is a used AU2 thats had little maintenance worth keeping?
Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 7:49 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Hey there,

Just put my new car, a 2001 AU2 Futura wagon in for service to get a check up. My mechanic feels its service history is 'iffy' to say the least. One specific thing he mentioned is the fuel filter is original from new (something about the rust preventative when its new?) . Its a nice car otherwise, AU2 Winter White Futura wagon with 111,000 k's.

The few things I knew needed doing are diff gasket, full exhaust and mufflers, coolant flush (looks like water only). He thinks the brake pads were last replaced without the discs being machined when they needed it. Given it looks like these things have been neglected (why no coolant is a worry??), is this a sign that this thing is going to be not worth keeping or have premature failures? He said there is some wear and tear in the transmission but nothing major. He did say (and I agree) that it drives well. Its smoother, quieter, steering is not as sloppy (firmer, say less wear in the pump or whatever?) than my 256000 k Forte. There are very few noises etc. It doesn't look neglected on the whole. It was owned by the RTA (sold at 40,000) to the guy I bought it off, so theres a good chance its had little (or the minimum the owner can get away with) or nothing done since the 40,000 service written in the owners manual. Compare this to my Forte I was replacing, although its done high k's, according to the books its been serviced by the book since new and I've kept it up the last 50,000k's. I know regular servicing is what keeps these things going.

Lets say I would not want to replace with another car (unless I win lotto) for another 5 or 6 years (say 90,000k's). Stick to the old one or keep the new? I was happy with the old and was only replacing as this is newer, less k's and a Futura in winter white.

Your opinions would be appreciated.
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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 8:06 pm 
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sounds like the mechanics trying to have abit of a field day dude..

flush the coolant yourself, exhaust will cost you only a couple of hundred bucks, i wouldnt have thought a 2001 model car would have even needed the discs machined after a pad change.
these are hardly major problems man, not worth selling a car over

 

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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 8:08 pm 
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I would just do a major service but as I know what mechanics are like these days some of the stuff on your car you can get away with (ie the brake rotors, unless they are pretty decently worn). And they will charge you a hell of alot in labour.

My recommendation is to get him to flush the cooling system and put new coolant in the car, replace the engine, gearbox, and diff oils, and maybe even some new power steering fluid.

But again thats if your rich, otherwise I don't know what else to recommend.

I would keep the car personally.

 

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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 8:13 pm 
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I agree, fix the few things yourself, they are easy enough. They are a good car and the mechanic is probably just trying to d**k you

 

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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 8:17 pm 
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Thanks guys.

Wild_ef, I'm well aware these things on their own are not major, that wasn't my concern, but ALONG WITH what looks like the possibility of little real maintenance for the last 60,000 k's, the longevity was more an issue. Put it this way, if one KNEW a vehicle hasn't had much in the way of servicing before purchasing it, it would generally be considered one to stay away from if there are others available.....

Yes, I would do the coolant flush myself, but would leave the diff and exhaust to someone else.

I do trust him, I've been using him for years, particularly since he is an auto transmission specialist only these days (was our general mechanic for 10 years though) and doesn't do most of the other stuff himself anymore, it was a report only, so I can't see how he can be screwing me since he has nothing to gain.

Oh, not that its relevant but some bush needs doing as well - somewhere between the transmission and tailshaft.....

Thanks all.
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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 8:45 pm 
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Parts for the 4Ls are so cheap these days.
AU motors are well under a grand, should be to pick up a second hand auto for a decent price.
Rebuilding is expensive.

If you can use the lack of service history to knock a chunk off the price, it may be worth it.
This is assuming you are willing to do work yourself on it, if you plan on paying people for labour I wouldn't bother, I would stay with some thing that is a 'known element'.

 

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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 8:50 pm 
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I can't get a chunk off the price, cause I've already bought it. I took a punt based on the fact that it drove well, had no noises and wasn't 'rough'. Not to mention it was only $4800. Lucky it looks like its paid off.
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Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2008 1:40 am 
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These engines are very sensitive to coolant condition in my experience. I let the (green) coolant in my wife's AU3 go a couple of months too long and it lost its colour. I've had to replace welsh plugs and water pump since then.

I know of one bloke who bought an EA that hadn't had an oil change for years, only top-ups. It snapped a rocker arm that seized on the shaft and there was sludge all over the top end. Yours won't be anywhere near that bad yet, but it'd be wise to change the oil every 6 months max (regardless of minimum mileage) for 2 years or so, and use an engine oil flush at every oil change.

I'd be more concerned about the coolant than anything else you mention. The passenger side welsh plugs cost me around $400 to replace as they are mongrels to get to, the intake manifold has to come off etc. A complete AU engine isn't much more than that... if you can organise a couple of mates to help and one of you knows what to do, a swap would likely be your best option if the welsh plugs give out.

For now, flush the coolant out, put new in, watch the colour and cross your fingers.

 

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Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2008 10:41 am 
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i change my oil every 5000kms. or 6 months. i usually do 5000 in 3 months lol. just do a full coolant flush yourself. buy brake pads and rip the rotors of yourself, measure the thickness with a set of verniers and compair to the allowed minimum. if allowable take them to a brake joint yourself and get them to machine them. it'll cost ya like $40. if not new rotors are only like $100

 

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