gday guys ive got a 95 ef ( despite the screen name...) 5 speed manual 2.5 inch exhaust, extractors and a cold air intake... i would like around the 180Rwkw mark. is that possible?? i want a real lumpy idle an lots of tourqu? help me out if u can.. Thanks Guys

-a tip... "check the "stickys" at the top of the six cylinder threads"... you may find more than you are after... lotsa good info on i6's.. will have a re-read myself..

Look mate. If you want to spend that kind of money then turbo the car and ffs don't waste 7g's N/A on the car unless you have buckets of money lying around. There will be a number of shops around that will give yotu drive in and drive out packages for $7000 that will put out 200rwkw+

you'll need an aftermarket ECU and a tune once all the engine stuff is done, so you'll have about $5000 to play with for the engine.(depending what ecu and who tunes it.

Who is doing all the work? If you can't built the engine you will not have enough money to make that power.

but to get that power you are going to need to:

rebuild the bottem end with high comp pistons ACL do some 5cc pistons.
set the piston hight 15thou down the bore. (even if it mean skimming the pistons) use an AU head gasket, that will leave the ablosute minimum to be shaved off the head.

use some ACL race bearings and go undersize on all the journals.
set the bearing clearences to high side of factory tolerence for an AU engine.

A standard flow stock pressure oil pump is easy enough for an engine like this. more flow and pressure will only cost power and driving the pump.

you'll need alot of air flow from the head. if you to make this power while keeping rev to a max of 6500rpm. speak to a few placing that port heads and see what they can do. but you'll be needing 240cfm odd with good flow under the curve.

the cam needs to match the head flow. speak to someone like surecam about having a custom grind done to suit what you need.

a few people will not like what i'm about to say (but hey when has that ever stoped me ) the BBM manifold is not as good as it's made out to be, and the only reason you see it on the high output AN cars is because there is no aftermarket manifold and every one is to lazy to make there own.

Make or have made a new manifold. single runner lenght about 7 to 8 inches long with a good shaped and sized plenum and a single 70MM tb and you'll s**t all over the same engine with a BBM.
trumpets inside plenums are a bad idea they don't flow well and they disrupt airflow in the plenum.


OK so rambled on a bit. i'll stop now

i agree with tickford_6 exept dont bother rebuilding the bottom end, not much power gains and very costly. besides the stock bottom end is good enough unless your wanting to get serious power by going forced.

compression is key to making power. so is ring seal. keeping oil out the chambers. Having bores that are true the crank and a deck that is true to the crank.

high comp pistons save you from shaving to much off the head and bringing on timing chain problems. and P/V clearence problems.

Old 3/4 worn bearing will not last long with that much power and RPM on the them.

there is power some power to be had in the bottem end. But moding the top end does f**k all for the reliability of the bottem end.

a freshen of the bottem end in my EF was the difference between a 15.2 and a 14.8.
don't tell me there is little gain in the bottem end

so u just want as much power as you can for 7grand ???
or do u want a car that u can take to drags/circuits ?

if u want one to run the quarter.... a change in gear ratio's/LSD would help.
Get a CMS stage 3 head/Cam Package (or even a custom job)
and a tune programmable Chip/ECU

what ever cash you have left over consider the bottom end rebuild, good set of tires, quality clutch or some suspension work.

but if u are just chasing dyno figures go the full rebuild, or turbo.

hey thanks guys... sorry for the late reply computer was down for a while... yeh im accually thinking turbo now.. would definatly be worth wile going that way insead of N/A.. considering my car has nearly 200 thou on the clock do u think it would be wise to get a rebuild before spending the money on the turbo kit??

If you're guuna run decent boost, say bye to your motor. Id be looking more near the 10k mark if you cant do it yourself. Done properly that is.

I agree with MMD, spend $1500 of that money on a new 3.7 lsd for performance rather than chase power figures

Turbo for sure.

Just run low boost, decent cooler and a GOOD tune and your bottom end will last. When it does die, whack in an AU motor (500ish at wreckers) and go from there.

Don't even bother spending 7k NA. If turbo is out, just do some BASIC NA mods, and change your diff ratio.

turbo for sure.
reasoning:
if you spend 7k on doing it n/a you will be able to run a high 14 second 1/4 mile time.
if you spend 7k on doing it forced you will be able to run at least a high 13 1/4 mile time.

fastest n/a 4.0l ford does a 13.3 and thats with a s**t of money and development time.

I love how everyone says go turbo like its so easy.

To start with, unless you can do a lot of the work yourself you won't have the funds, and before anyone says this is wrong, I have witnessed a "low boost budget" turbo build before, and s**t that can go wrong will go wrong.

Also as soon as 200-250wkws are being put through a transmission that's done 200000ish kays and will be driven hard (assuming, considering you want performance) stuff dies very fast. Also assuming your car is a T5 from your user name, to get your box rebuilt with stronger internals, minimum $1000, more like 1500 or more depending on how the sun and stars are aligned.

I have nothing against turboing, but I don't think unless your willing to spend 10k it is a viable option.

Id get an AU engine to start with.
Then probably head down the forced road. All i hear these days is people turbo-ing the 4.0L, what happened to the supercharger days??

go buy a snort performance kit for 3300 or watever they are, they make 180-200 kw on 6psi roughly, as for motor i run an ef motor in my el that i picked up on ebay for 100 dollars with 200, 000 km on it and runnin 13psi through it with 340 rwhp and it hasn't missed a beat mate!