Hi all,

I've lurked here a little in the past, so thanks for the help so far!

I've searched around, but still have a couple of unanswered questions. Unless they're just well hidden, my apologies if it's familiar ground..

My NF Fairlane (280,000km, half of which since I've owned it) is in need of a little tlc. A little background - I've had some acceleration/idling problems, along with intermittent coolant loss, and have explored the cheaper options. In the last 12 or so months, I've replaced the map, oxygen, coolant temp + air temp sensors. Replaced the idle speed controller. Replaced intake/exhaust gaskets. New water pump, water bypass pipe (what a c*** of a job that was!!), and hoses. New injectors, coil pack, ignition leads... So I'm pretty sure the head gasket is the only culprit left

Anyway, with regards to a VRS kit, is that something that can be done by me? As in, just pull out the old seals etc and plug the new ones in? I won't be using the same head, need the car on the road as much as possible, so head work will be done ahead of time. I'll be off to pick-a-part as soon as the weather fines up next week to grab a head from there. Will give me a bit of practice too, they're great like that!

Also, do I just slot my cam onto the new head afterwards, or will I need to get the same cam from the head?

Lastly, I'm in the northern suburbs of Melbourne (South Morang), can anyone suggest any shops for the head work out this way? I'm not really interested in performance, just a cheap, reliable job.

I'm open to any advice, suggestions or corrections, if you feel the need. Except for putting an AU engine in.. Possibly an option down the track, but I won't be considering that until the wife has her own car.

Cheers

I've done 3 i6's now, and many other cars over the years now myself, so yes, you can do it all yourself if you have the tools and inclination. You will need to get whatever head you get faced so it's meeting surface is perfectly clean and flat.

Also, get an MLS gasket.. that way you don't be doing it again later on down the track. I saw a kit on ebay for 170 for all gaskets including an MLS head gasket and head bolts (you can only use the bolts once)


Yup.. use your old cam is fine.. just make sure the lobes are not pitted.

Sorry, can't help you with that, I'm in Perth.


Changing heads is pretty easy but fiddly.. watch out for the chain tensioner and guides.. the later are easy to snap and the former has to be set properly to tension the cam chain... make sure you have a workshop manual since you've never done one before.

cheers

Frank

Thanks mate.



I'm pretty sure I have everything. Got a 3/8 + 1/2 in socket set with a 3/8 torque wrench.. I figure I'll use the torque wrench, then my 1/2 in breaker bar to go the last 90 degrees. I also have my trusty Haynes manual. Just got to organise for the kids to stay with the inlaws for a couple of days now, so there's no distractions.

Cheers

It wouldn't hurt to have a 10mm rachet spanner, smallest one you can find, to remove/replace the intake manifold. I actually taped mine to to a screwdriver loosely it together they made it much faster to get the manifold off and on..(bottom bolts are a pain.)

If you are careful (very careful.) you can use some solid cable to tie the cam chain sprocket up to the roof beam of your shed. (so it doesn't loose tension when you disconnect it from the cam) I have done that a couple of times and it works well. Also put some wire ties around the sprocket/chain so the placement isn't lost. (lock them together.) Obviously, you'll then have the head loose and will have to put a second cable up so you can undo the first one and slide it though the head. It's a time saver though.. (at least it was for me.) just be careful because the plastic chain guide on the passenger side of the cam sprocket is fragile once you've removed the bolt that goes though it from the front of the head.

sounds complicated.. it really isn't. I didnt' have a manual when I did my first i6 and it was slower going, but went fine.