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Just spent $4000 on a motor rebuilkd and the motor uses oil 

 

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Posted: Fri Apr 07, 2006 5:57 pm 
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Fubar wrote:
Sorry, He told me that I had to drive no faster then 90Ks for the first 500Ks then up and down for the next 500 Ks, so it will wear in evenly appaerantly. I followed this to the letter. The first 500 Ks it was using oil so he gave it a oil change ( charged me of cause ) The next 500 same thing so he says we should try another oil, this went on a few times more until I said no matter what oil you put in it won't solve the problem and I am sick of oil changes at $90 a time. This isn't what I payed for, so he says well it didn't come with a warranty. I said well it doesn't matter, This isn't what I payed for. Then he basicly said tuff and gave ne another bill he over looked for $1100 Said if I don't pay he will sue me.


TAKE ACTION NOW!....Call consumer affairs, another mechanic or NRMA for a inspection report/ second opinion. then seek a lawyer for legal advice.
Last thing you wanna do is counter suing, usually don't stand very well in court if you haven't taken all the procedure mentioned above.

you were better of with a exchange motor dude.

good luck

 

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 Post subject: Re: Just spent $4000 on a motor rebuilkd and the motor uses
Posted: Fri Apr 07, 2006 6:37 pm 
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Fubar wrote:
I just spent over $4000 on a full rebuild at the local garage, I even provided most of the parts. He ended up putting the wrong size tappets in the head gear so it sounds like a machine gun. The motor uses more oil now then it has ever done. He is blaming two of the exchange injecters for that. He said they had some slight moisture on them so that has leaked into the oil and thinned it out to much ans stuffed the motor. But it took him 6 weeks to work this out


Does this sound right to anyone? From day one the motor hasn't run properly and he has just kept fobbing me off and now he send me a bill for another $1100 saying that it was over looked. The head on my motor had only done 2000 Ks and I said I want that one put back on at rebuild. He went and got another one and charged me $600. I said no way, Put my one on it like I said to start with. then the next day he rings me up and tells me my head got damaged and is now no good.


I am just wondering what some of you people would do? I don't see why I should pay another $1100 for staters or for this other head. Plus a bit unsure what to do about a NEW motor that uses a litre of oil every 500 Ks
Thanks for your opionins, opps sorry it is for a 1988 Fairlane.


where abouts in qld are you located? ... I can take a look at the motor if you want .

Last edited by altedxr6 on Fri Apr 07, 2006 6:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Fri Apr 07, 2006 6:54 pm 
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Last edited by blackjack_original on Fri Jun 06, 2014 9:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Fri Apr 07, 2006 7:28 pm 
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altedxr6, Thanks but I am near Toowoomba. As for the head, Of cause he tossed it.
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Posted: Fri Apr 07, 2006 8:06 pm 
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f**k that guy. he's a d**k head. he is supposed to be a mechanic (should know what he is doing). He shouldnt charge you for s**t that he didnt pick up or install properly.

my two cents

 

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 Post subject: just spent $4000 on new motor
Posted: Fri Apr 07, 2006 8:20 pm 
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sounds like the cylinders wernt honed to bed rings or he broke some assembling the pistons in to the block,get a compression test done.the other thing is you have to use breaking in oil- 30 grade oil with no additives repco sells it,the rings and oil scaper rings have to wear into bore shape.blocks are round when bored and honed,but when the head is bolted on it distorts the bore and stress the block.about 2000k on a good motor to run in and loosen up,will still be tight.unfortunately if you use additive oils the honing in the bores glaze over and the rings wont seat and use heaps of oil.from your report i think you will have to rebuild the motor.is the mech-butcher registered mta-or mechanics association of some sort,they look in to disputes,and as above,some also have to warranty there work. :roll: :roll:

 

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Posted: Sat Apr 08, 2006 9:03 am 
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dont woory about consumer affairs/fair trading. They can only act as a medeator and dont do s**t. GO AND GET SOME LEGAL ADVICE TO FIND OUT WERE U STAND!.

Ive gone through a similar situation, and if u supplied the parts [& the part/s u supplied are at fault for the problem...as claimed by the mechanic] ur screwed.

However, if he knowingly put in faulty parts its a different story. Catching him out is the tricky part, this is were the silisitor will come in handy!

 

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Posted: Sat Apr 08, 2006 10:16 am 
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XR6EB wrote:
dont woory about consumer affairs/fair trading. They can only act as a medeator and dont do s**t. GO AND GET SOME LEGAL ADVICE TO FIND OUT WERE U STAND!.

Ive gone through a similar situation, and if u supplied the parts [& the part/s u supplied are at fault for the problem...as claimed by the mechanic] ur screwed.

However, if he knowingly put in faulty parts its a different story. Catching him out is the tricky part, this is were the silisitor will come in handy!
don't forget a another mechanics second opinion, like altedxr6 has kindly offered his help. I'll still pay him for his trouble. you can still contact consumer. at least then its recorded on record. get written reports if you have to. you want hard copy's.

Don't wait for the collectors to knock on the door or the getting served.

 

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Posted: Sat Apr 08, 2006 10:18 am 
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hi
how many times has he tried to repair the faulty at hand ?

U have to give him a opportunity to repair his mistakes , i would be handing him a letter of demand and explain if the engine is not repaired up to industries standards regardless u supplying parts or not. Parts generally carry a 12 months warranty

Telling him in the letter u will seek a professional mechanic to diagnose the problem and get a quotation in writing what the fault is and quote for repairs.

Keep in mind it may involve removing the engine out of the car and stripping it down and doing a full inspection

Explain to him what ever the costs are u will seek to be re inversed the costs for having ur repairs carried out properly.

If he doesn't agree to do the repairs the u have to get that second mechanic involved and then consumer affairs with all the relevant information
U better start writing a report form day one with ur encounters with this mechanic

Remember one thing when a engine is tied so are the other parts and accessories around the engine . Rule of thumb when a engine needs a rebuild all other parts have to be in 100% functioning order
ie fuel system , cooling system , exhaust system and so on.


couldd talk more but this might be of help
cheers

 

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Posted: Sun Apr 09, 2006 7:27 pm 
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Thanks guys, It is all so distressing. I supplied everything new, he bored out the block. He wouldn't use my head then tried to tell me after he charged me for a new one that my head some how got dropped and broken, no good. Then he said he put the motor out side and the fuel truck dragging a dog tralier around a very tight bend somehow flipped it up into the air and dropped in on its end.

This guy just keeps coming up with one story after the other. They just keep changing.


Bottom line is I just don't want him to ever work on any of my cars again, I have lost all confidence in him and just don't know what the best way to go is.
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Posted: Sun Apr 09, 2006 7:37 pm 
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Check the engine numbers make sure he hasnt just pulled your motor out and thrown another secondhand motor in, seen first hand a recon motor that was just degreased and painted black and sold as reconditioned

 

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Posted: Sun Apr 09, 2006 7:42 pm 
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go to a REAL mechanic and get your motor pulled down and inspected, if the damage was caused by him he will owe you:

A: the cost of the motor being RE rebuilt
B the cost of it being pulled down and inspected

 

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Posted: Sun Apr 09, 2006 7:46 pm 
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Follow the sequence FPV_GTp mentioned above. keep a copy of your letter of demand & any other correspondence you can get hold of, phone records & so forth. I wouldn't be surprise if the compression & oil ring gaps are all over the place or worse, the ring gaps all lined up.

get a second mechanic in the picture for a documented inspection.

But follow the sequence as mentioned above by FPV_GTp.

 

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Posted: Sun Apr 09, 2006 8:05 pm 
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Fubar wrote:
He wouldn't use my head then tried to tell me after he charged me for a new one that my head some how got dropped and broken, no good. Then he said he put the motor out side and the fuel truck dragging a dog tralier around a very tight bend somehow flipped it up into the air and dropped in on its end.



if he has damaged the motor like that then he will have to replace it, putting the motor outside? wtf.

if he dropped and damaged your head he should be supplying you a replacement

 

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Posted: Sun Apr 09, 2006 9:34 pm 
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this is teh reason so many people don't like the idea of taking their car to a mechanic.
most mechanics (all that i know of) are decent blokes who take pride in their work and customer satisfaction.
this guy is absolutely discraceful, torch his workshop!

 

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