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| chhris |
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Hey guys just wanted to know if yous could help me with something. After installing a Wade 1673 this afternoon my car has a pretty bad ticking noise and seems to have not much power at all. When I installed the cam I used hardened stainless steel washers 1mm thick as I could not get shims this afternoon and could not wait. I used 2 washers per lifter, including the original shim. My question is could using the washers be causing this problem.
Thanks for any help, Chris. |
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| JayEdXr6 |
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Absaloutley
_________________ Poly green Ed xr6-new n/a motor on the way. |
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| Tech90 |
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Need to be using the ford shims as they have the grooves and hole for oil flow, I think they're 1.9mm thick?
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| Chrisford92 |
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Yea el I'm pretty sure is 1.9mm. I was just told washers would be fine as they have a hole for the oil to drain through and they are 1mm so I just have to add 2.
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| GeZza200 |
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the washers should work fine... something else is wrong take the rocker gear off again an have a look
_________________ EL Futura: CVE head, Wolf V500, ICE Ignition and Coil, 36lb injectors, Walbro 255lb, Paci comps, 3" exhaust, T5, Harrop Truetrac with 3.9s. Now with 198.9rwkw, (~185rwkw and 13.80 @99.1mph) with more power to come |
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| Chrisford92 |
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Yea I was afraid it would be something else maybe I put the timing out? Btw looks like my old computer logged me into my old account when I posted this topic haha.
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| phongus |
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Did you "reset" the HLAs before putting them back in the rocker arm? I assume you have run the engine for a while now and the engine hasn't stopped ticking?
Also power wise, check your timing and make sure your cam gear isn't a tooth out or something.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| Chrisford92 |
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Yea now that I did forget to do. It's strange because a couple weeks ago had to replace the head gasket and everything was fine. just removed and installed the cam
now the same way, while also adding the washers of course and only have problems now. |
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| Shortshift |
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Are the factory shims sitting on top of the HLAs? If not, you've blocked off the oil feed to them (which is through the 3 slots on each factory shim).
_________________ AU2 XR8 with Raptor VL, ported Yella Terra GT40P heads, Scorpion 1.6 RRs, XE264HR-14 Comp Cam, ceramic coated Hurricane Headers, 60lb injectors, Walbro 255, 200cfi cats, 3" exhaust & Snow Performance water methanol injection |
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| Chrisford92 |
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The shims are on top of the lifters with the three little slots facing the lifter, the one big slot facing the washers and top of the rocker arm. so I got the timing gun out put the car into timing mode and it seems to be way advanced, so I set it to just a little bit advance and still no improvement at all.
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| TimmyA |
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Not ignition timing... Whats the cam to crank timing? Did you wait for two mins or so for codes to finish and then after all that the car goes into base timing mode for 2 mins only... After which you hear it change back to advancing the timing...
Did you use a vernier gear and dial the cam in exactly where the spec sheet that came with it said to dial in? Worst comes to worst did you drop a valve and find true top dead centre and make the sure balancer was still accurate and hasn't slipped? Cheers, TIm
_________________ 93 Red ED 5spd Manual Build Thread |
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| Chrisford92 |
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Yea I waited 2 minutes but the timing does seem right even after adjusting it so maybe the balancer has slipped. No i did not use a venier gear. Thought on wade cams they were not necessary? I just roated the engine till the timing marks aligned for tdc before putting the cam in. Looks like I'm gonna have to pull it all apart tomorrow check all the shims and washers and check for true top dead center.
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| TimmyA |
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not necessary no... but the cam needs to dialled regardless... a vernier gear makes it easy...
There is what maybe 60 teeth on a cam gear? so each tooth is around 6 degrees... Where a vernier gear enables accuracy to an nth of a degree... You need to set a dial indicator up on the cam and the specs say x amount of lift at TDC on either the lobe or valve and then you roll the engine to TDC rocking No1 and then roll the cam to you get that amount of lift and then that is the cam timed to the crank... If you do it, roll the crank to TDC and then you have take out the tensioner and slip the timing chain one tooth at a time until you get as close to the lift @ TDC as specified... Vernier gear means you get the teeth close and you get about 10 or 12degrees movement in the cam without having to slip the chain... If you haven't timed the cam when you put it in at all you're lucky you haven't damaged something... You could've bent valves or anything... And ideally you'd run a vernier gear on a std cam and dial it into exactly where Ford specified to get maximum performance out of a std cam... My VCT cam which is std Ford cam at present was dialled into .050mm lift at 12deg BTDC or something like that... So the VCT phasor is like a vernier gear so I set it up to exactly that spec... Cheers, Tim
_________________ 93 Red ED 5spd Manual Build Thread |
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| phongus |
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The camshaft doesn't necessarily need to be dialled in using an adjustable cam gear. It runs fine with stock camshaft gear. I had mine run with the normal setting with an adjustable cam gear and had plenty of oomph over the stock cam. Dialling in the cam will give you full potential if you know how to set it correctly.
So does it idle roughly and run like crap? Or does it idle okay but upon giving it stick it bogs and dies/coughs? Might be leads if they are old enough (initially I had one bad lead which caused havoc for a day) or something in the fuel line such as dirty fuel filter?
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| Benno The Viking |
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phongus wrote: The camshaft doesn't necessarily need to be dialled in using an adjustable cam gear. It runs fine with stock camshaft gear. I had mine run with the normal setting with an adjustable cam gear and had plenty of oomph over the stock cam. Dialling in the cam will give you full potential if you know how to set it correctly. So does it idle roughly and run like crap? Or does it idle okay but upon giving it stick it bogs and dies/coughs? Might be leads if they are old enough (initially I had one bad lead which caused havoc for a day) or something in the fuel line such as dirty fuel filter? I still have the stock cam gear on my 1636 and it was fine, would probably be better with a vernier but that's just more $. You know on the bottom of the rocker pedestals, how there is those little sheaths that sit in the head in some of the bolt holes (I assume they are the way the oil gets to the lifters), perhaps one of them has fallen out? Just a thought.
_________________ Build Thread |
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