Hey guy's what would be a better idea to do, work my Auto (shift kit etc) or manual it?? My aim is to hit the low 14's so what's better ?? I know how much It cost's to manual convert it but how much would it cost me to strengthen my auto and shift kit thanks...

Cheers ...

If ur staying NA manual it, ur Auto wont need anything done to it, prob just a cooler, But if u still wanna do it up, can be from 2000-3000, but thats just prices from my area as theres not much here.

NA = manual
Forced Induction = Auto

how come? I'm not questioning, just I got no idea so would like to know.

take the BA xr6 turbos for example, all the ones that are running quick times are auto...

hmm, isn't tht just because most people have bought the auto version, therefore a larger probability pool for auto's to get good times?

Id say the auto for forced and manual for NA is a good rule of thumb. For the lower powered NA cars, the better gear ratios the manual box has helps get off the line quicker, where the longer 1st gear on the auto helps load up the engine and control wheelspin on the boosted cars.

Also a manual can become a handful on a high power engine. Heavy clutches put more pressure on the cable, firewall and pedal box (and your leg). Unless your forking out $$$ for a tough manual, the t5 is also going to be marginal on strength.

i wana go manual only thing is money

I'm sure i read somewhere also that with an auto you don't loose boost between gear changes?

hmmmm i was going to get a manual for my car and get a super charger....im guessing those 2 won't go together? so just spend my money on supercharger or get manual and run NA?

i think its u dont loose as much...

Thats your choice to whether you wanna run an NA setup or if ya crave some force fed induction....comes down to your hip pocket and how deep it is in comparison to the hp/fwkw/rwkw/bhp figure you would hope to achieve with a setup.....the auto or manual will work fine with both.....just comes down to the power figures vs money to them determine if the driveline system ...not always is it just the trans that needs to be modified requires any change.

An auto with a low boost turbo/supercharger system will be fine same as NOS but only up to round the 200rwkw mark....thats a very safe figure...some btrs will go harder and push 220-230 rwkw and still be okay but thats a select few ....you can then either change to a C4/C6/C9 or stay BTR....convert to semi auto, add kevlar bands and better internals for bit over 1K and then it should hand loads more torque.

The manual sometimes is the cheaper path.....but when u start gettin big HP boosted applications or very large torque figures....the manuals in the fords become ridiculously expensive....not just the gearbox but the clutch setup as well.....also become hard to drive then too - well until ya used to it....might find the misses wont drive it anymore...could be a blessing

So yeh dude if u are serious bout goin down the S/C path....how much are u willing to spend honestly on the project cause there is alot of hidden and forgotten costs and what power figure do u really realistically wanna achieve....dont say u wanna spend 8K and get 400rwkw cause it wont happen.

I think thats the main reason....cost and drivability...as new cars come out espescially the huge NA or boosted models...everyone is still wanting the comfort factor and ease of driving......regardless of how much power is under ya bonnet.

The manuals to cope with these larger setups can get very expensive and isnt as easy to drive as a manual....ask anyone who for the first time has jumped in a car with a full brass button clutch....the autos arent as expensive...are very durable even with very high torque applications and as the power increases the drivability aspect remains the same.

Just as a side note, supercharged setups 'seem' to be a bit easier on the T5.
Dave (EL XR8) was pumping about 200rwkw through his and drove it hard, it saw plenty of quarter mile passes and alot of street kms, and it is still holding up well.
He never used a hardcore clutch in it though, that was always the 'fuse' in the driveline.

Yeah I'm going to stick in the Na line's turb's just too much out of my budget for now, so I'll just probably convert her to manual, it'll be fun to mmmm *thinks*