First pic are my "Motivator" headers which were pretty cheap from new, and 2nd pic are the more expensive Pacemaker 4449's.

Now to me they look EXACTLY the same, even with the "pipe over cone" feature that pacemaker advertise so much

By the way mine arent polished anymore, they lasted 20 seconds after i started the car before all my hard work went to s**t. But i just thought its was strange that my cheap headers seem to be as good as the pacemakers...... no need to upgrade

Pacemakers are mandrel bent. Yours on the other hand are pressed bent and are not pipe over cone.

Pressed bent because I can clearly see the bend crush on the pipe leaving cyl1 in the photo and at the collector.

 

 

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Pacemaker-Header-PH4499.jpg [ 17.79 KiB | Viewed 239 times ]

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ahh, thanks for the info

but even then.... im wondering if buying a set of 4449's would make any noticable improvment since they look to have the same design, apart the things youve pointed out?

why not get the 4480's

yeah thinking about that too, but there 100 bucks dearer than the 4449's.

They're worth it but. You should be able to pick up a set for about $450.00 installed.

The ones in your first picture don't look like Lukey/Walker Motivators to me though, this is a picture of the Lukey ones (greatly different to the Pacies):

wow, cheapest i could find was on ebay for 530 delivered

the local exhaust shop wanted f**k 650 without fitting

Might be worth ringing Moonah Mufflers down here then, even with postage, might end up cheaper than eBay. I know the business got bought out last month, so dunno if his prices will be effect...

got my pacie 4480 fitted for $520

yeah dont even bother with 4499. 4480 are the go.

Go the 4480,

You will be glad you spent the extra.

Had a set on a manual EF XR I used to own and it was keeping 260kw ss clubies honest.
I had also a hi flow cat fitted on it aswell.
A friend of mine Couldn't get away from me in there BA XR6Turbo auto.

So was not bad.

Also these 4480 have been on numerous production car championship winners cars.

The other extractors lose a lot of flow due to pipe inside of cones.

Do a test , get a container and a funnel, fit a thin wall hose over the funnel and time how long it takes to fill it into another container, then do the same with the hose fitted inside the funnel.
You should get a noticable time differance if done properly.
This is the same principle as the cones on the extractors.

If you dont have a constant diameter it all so will slow flow down as will sharp bends.

The other thing that is critical is the runner lengths as for the best performance to happen the exhaust pules need to work in a way to keep a constant flow to create vac which assists in removing exhaustgases from the cylinders which in turn creates vacume for intake charge.

There is plenty of power to be gained in a number of areas on a set of extractors.
Head flange it not matched to exhaust ports .
all other flanges if any interferance in flow path.
Pipe length and diameter.


Another thing is to position your tail tip in a position to gain the most vacume created from the aero path created from your car.

Everything helps and if you can get all these things right you will be faster than another car that has similar mods that has not been put together with thought.
You dont need to always buy the dearest part on the market but just research a little to find the best suited part.

Some of these other extractors could be as good if you can modify the cones eg cut them and butt weld the cone to the pipe. dont attempt this if you dont know what you are doing though.

if you are handy with a die grinder you can match port the header plate.
One thing is to make sure the bends are Mandrel bends.

It all comes down to if you want to spend some time on them getting them right or just pay the extra and buy a good set.

Muffler choice is another area as well as exhaust diameter.

To big and the exhaust gas flows to slow creating poor vacume, too small and you have fast flow very good vacume but low flow.
Small pipe gives good low down power poor top end, large pipe gives poor low down power but excelent top end power.
its a matter of having a system that suits you engine capacity x working rpm range.

I have found race magnums to be a very good muffler for the dollar.
They are pretty quite till you stand on the loud pedal.
Last review I read they where one of the higest flowing mufflers on the market and also the quitest of the best flowing priced at a good price too.

I last had one of these fitted too a 351w TD cortina I built.
Tri y extractors single 3" mandrel system with race magnum muffler.
engine was std with straight LPG setup.
Ran 8.8 1/8 track at 125kph but had LPG converter probs half track on to for a 13.9 at 155kph 1/4.
Only time I took it to the track.
LPG converter was leaking water into gas Had to happen on the day.
The exhaust note made it sound like it pulled a million revs and people couldn't work out if it was a eight or not and would ask after getting blown away.
It was a good sleeper.

Hope I didnt bore everyone with this long thread and someone found it useful.

woah some good info there, thanks

im guessing the exhaust bloke will have a heart attack if i ask him to cut the headers up and modify..... so the 4480's are the go i reckon

but atm the next mod will be lsd then new headers as this single spinner business is f**k me off

I was thinking about modifying my pacemaker 4499's to look like the JMM streetfighter extractors. As you can see from the pic they have extending the secondary pipes a extra foot under the car. Pipe size and bends etc look identical to the pacies that I have.

i got a question for yas.

i got some Motavator Extractors today, and the join flange is about 3 inches lower than the factory exhaust manifold.

i dont want to get rid of my cat, is there a way of just cutting the cat pipe and welding the flange on?

Oh also the motavators have a 3-bolt triangular flange :S

is it possible to change that too?

sorry about the noob questions.

bumpage... anyone have an idea what i could do bout my shape problem?