Hi all,

I really am now at the end of my tether as I have exhasted all my knowledge on why my car wont start.

Last monday i got home from work, drove home no probs have had no probs before. Went to go out 3 hours later and nothing. The car is turning over but wont crank.

The car has fuel into the injector rail and into the cylinders, it has injector pulse, it has spark, its getting air. So then i went to timing. I got cyl 1 at TDC on the compression stroke and checked the rotor, and it was pointing at cylinder 1 just as it should be??

What else could be causing this. Any ideas would be so greatly appreciated as I have no more ideas.

Regards
Jamo

Have you got compression? are the valves opening and closing correctly? havent got a very big vacuumn leak somewhere? TFI module could be playing up? you may have spark, but do you have a GOOD spark? is there spark at EVERY spark plug? havent got a majorly blocked exhaust? Got any sort of immobiliser? if this doesnt help, post again and I'll think of some more stuff.

Gab

Hey Gab, The spark it good across all plugs, compression is also even across all cylinders and the exhaust should be fine its not even that old i wouldnt imagine the cat falling apart just after stopping the car though, it would deteriarate over at least a little time i would have thought. The only immobiliser is the smartlock module and that seems to be doing the right things, and i havent really looked for a vacuum leak but it would have to be pretty big for the motor not to at least try to crank over ?

Thnks for the suggesstions

Jamo

Try giving the smartlock module a tap (it's above the handbrake) Might make it behave, could have low fuel pressure? are you 100% sure you were checking the ignition timing on the compression stroke? might be 180º out, but if it drove fine before, that shouldnt be the issue. fuel pump might be on it's way out? is the fuel pressure witin specs? How do you know you have an injector pulse. After cranking it over, remove the spark plugs, are they wet with fuel? if not, it's not getting fuel into the cylinders. Perhaps your injectors have stopped working? just because you have a pulse doesnt mean the injectors are injecting fuel. Is the distributor actually TURNING? maybe the dissy drive has failed. Is the camshaft really badly worn? Leaky valve? Perhaps the ECU has failed, try a different one. Check the computer for fault codes in the KOEO position. TFI Module all good? Is the battery fully charged and in good condition? Is the computer getting a reading from the TPS? It may not start if the TPS is unplugged. Wiggle the plugs of the wiring loom, see if that helps. Perhaps a sensor has come unplugged? I beleve it needs a reading from most sensors in order to run. the TFI module can fail, and you will still have spark but no start. See how you go with some of those, if that doesnt help, I'll see if I can think of some more.

Gab

+1 to what Gab1 said... all good ideas. Just wanted to add, make sure the spark is a nice strong spark, cos if the coil is on it's way out, it will produce a spark, but not strong enough.

The smartlock tapping is good advice, I've seen it happen quite a few times... some people just release their hand brake harder than normal (sort of slamming it down), or they knock it with their knee.

Other than that, I think pretty much everything else has been covered.

Good luck!

Hey guys thanks for the replys. The spark is nice and strong, and i have given the smartlock module a nice stromg tap. The TFI has been unplugged and plugged a few times as have most other plugs and sensors (i was gettimg desperate). The timing is definatly set on the compression stroke 100% sure. Also the spark plugs are definatly wet with fuel so the injectors seem to be working fine. Some one else suggested the fuel pressure, would that just be a matter of replacing the fuel pump, although it gave a nice strong squirt after the filter (which is new) when i tested it. I will however try the ECU for fault codes tomorrow. I have a mate coming around tomorrow who has been a ford mechanic for quite a while so lets hope we can get some answers. The cam is fairly new also its a Crow Cam (soon to be replaced by a Wade) but it may be a leaky valve but i would have suspected at least an attempt to start on a few cylinders. Ill try a couple more things but thanks heaps for your ideas.

Anyone else with ideas feel free

Thanks Gab and justfordima

Jamo

you may have already checked but is the crtlmp fuse blown or your interior light globe?
If either of these are blown the car won't start.

I'd also check earth by running a jumper cable from battery to the hook for engine removal, just in case. They may look fine but sometimes its what you can't see

I'm still suspecting the TFI Module, or the ECU itself.

Gab

If there's spark then that is unlikely... TFI sends signal to ECU (PIP), ECU sends signal to TFI (SPOUT), we have spark... they both have to function in one way or another to get spark.

Cheers

PIP signal is sent to the TFI module from the Hall Effect sensor that picks up the chopper disk inside the dizzy. Could be a stuffed Hall effect sensor inside the dizzy, they can fail just like the TFI modules.......Maybe get a second hand dizzy from the wreckers for $25 and swap them over. But as you have said you are getting spark. Is it a strong blue spark jumping the gaps or a weak yellow spark??

If the ECU relay was faulty you wouldn't see 12v with a test lamp at the injector plugs while cranking the engine. So that rules that out.

It could well be your ECU has s**t itself, happened on my mates EF. The car just stalled going around a corner and would refuse to start. After pulling some schematics of the net I tracked It down to the ECU using a multimeter and testing reference voltages...

If your body control module had failed the engine will not crank, so it's not that as well.

Don't know if this has been mentioned yet but maybe battery terminals?. Might be worth replacing them mine looked fine but was doing the exact same thing