[quote/] Shyun
The top half of the au is slightly different, it doesnt have a bung for the air temp sensor because its part of the map sensor, so that makes sense. You only have to grind a few mm off the sump fins to make it fit .
You should realy use the el ecu , as its only a matter of adding 2 wires from the solenoid to the ecu as the rest is already installed, but you could do that yourself when you get it back [/quote]

We know the intakes are different, I was saying why use 2 halves and not just the complete EF/EL one. The bottom parts are the same as far as I know aren't they?
Why would the sump need grinding to fit an intake manifold?

[quote/]Dazza
First up, the cam wont be all that lumpy if your not gunna run a stall. Second, get the EL manifold, ECU, coil and dizzy. Use your EB loom, you have to cut and shut 1 connector for the air temp sensor. Its reasonably easy to chuck a dizzy down the hole Im assuming, in the AU as far as I know the block didnt change. Your mate is making this job harder than it needs to be. Its as easy as taking a s**t to convert to a bbm, you just need to have the right parts. Using the AU motor isnt necesarily a bad thing as they were built better as far as I am concerned, the old 4.0s are to agricultural. Hope it all works out.[/quote]

There have been several posts saying "use this do that"...he's paying a mechanic to do the work, not doing it himself...

I do agree though, AU motors are a better design, but that just omes with being 10 years newer.

Well if you just use the ef top half you dont have to remove the manifold from the cylinder head i assume thats why he did it. I'd think it would be a little bit quicker, but yeah theres probably not much difference even if you pull the whole thing off .you have to grind the sump fins off because otherwise it just hits the kframe on an ed. If you just take the fins off at the front theres about 1 cm of room, so you dont realy have to take much off and it will only take 10 mins.

personally I'd have the block and head bare when putting the engine in then bolt it all on, but you have a good point there if the mechanic did it complete I guess swapping tops would be about the same time wise.

Oh, haha, yes for the front clearance of the sump, is that all you need to remove? Cos the sump cuts I've seen are pretty big chunks! If the clearance is all ok for engine movment too I might use this idea. as I said I thought you meant for the intake lol.

it is easier to put the block and head in first, this way you can get to the top starter motor bolt, but then it will be a b**ch to put the bbm on as u have to squezze ur hands under neath to get to the back bolts,

or

you can put it in all together with the bbm on and s**t but it will be a b**ch to get to the top starter motor bolt and its recommend to put the heater hoses on first before the motor goes in

Its easy to get at the top starter bolt with one of those swivel headed extension bars and go in from under the fron of the manifold. Have done it this way many times.

Bolts aren't too much of an issue for me as well, I delete heater hoses usually, and anything that will make more room anywhere.

so guys the engine is in!! but the compressor isnt connected yet because gotta modify the hosed for the air con, oh and well i think i may need newer enegine mounts soon because the car vibrates :S

regards anthony