Hi guys just a few questions I have to ask. I have looked online but need a few more details on a couple of things.

First of all to run the BBM all I need is the EL ECU, and to add wires from the vaccum solnoid to the ecu?

Do you just remove the whole vaccum solnoid unit from an EL (as in the bit that sits under washer bottle and wire that to the ecu?)

I am dropping an EL Motor into my eb non smartlock, already have the j3 to bypass smartlock etc

Is there anything else I really need to know when putting this EL motor in, eg anything that doesnt fit/ line up?

Any help would be muchly appreciated.

Cheers

Yes

Yes. Make sure you have the vacuum hose hooked up properly

Are you using an EB radiator? The outlet pipe is a smaller diameter than the EF/EL. Either use a stainless steel reducer or get and EF/EL radiator and surge tank. Are you doing the conversion to thermofans as well. Make sure you get the fuel lines around the right way

you will also need to change your heater hose pipes aswell, or take a risk and try bend them???

Wiring for the BBM solenoid from memory involves finding a "power on with ignition" source in the engine bay for one of the solenoid wires - and then yep you run the other solenoid wire to the EL ECU (that pin socket in your pre BBM ECU plug will be empty) - ie. the ECU opens or closes (grounds) the circuit to operate the solenoid.

In my ED I found a two-socket connector dangling near the Washer Bottle which had power to the red wire with ignition on - so I just connected to that (I think that connector is for wagon washer bottle - ie. I think the wagon has 2 pumps - one for windscreen and one for back window - evidently both sedan and wagon share the same engine bay loom so in sedan that connector is just left unused).

Bearing in mind then that wire constantly has power in it right back to the ECU whenever ignition is ON - so be careful what wire you use and how you run it - make sure it's decent wire, that you use closed connectors and/or wrap with insulating tape at any joins and that it won't chafe and short out anywhere between the engine bay and the ECU. You've heard of cars catching fire - it's from f%$#ing up this sort of wiring that things like that happens.

Make sure you pay attention to the location and orientation of the check valve which is in one of the vac lines for the BBM solenoid - from memory it all makes sense once you look at it.

As a matter of interest: The BBM solenoid is POWERED to long path and unpowered for short path. I always thought that's odd because it means the solenoid is running "hot" for the vast majority of time the engine is running - ie. whole time it's less than 3800rpm then that solenoid is powered - but that's the way they do it. Also, technically the BBM actually selects to short path (open circuit) below 400rpm then switches to long path (closed circuit) once revs are > 400 - then it switches back to short path again (open circuit) at >= 3800rpm. Largely irrelevant as the time <400rpm is insignificant, but I remember reading it in a Ford manual somewhere (dealer tech manual, not workshop manual).