Hi i have just rebuilt my engine EL i6 and have just put in nulon 10w40 High Tech fast flowing, have started it twice have not drivin it yet,heres the link http://www.nulon.com.au/products.php?productName=100%_Synthetic_10W-40_Hi-Tech_Fast_Flowing_Engine_Oil

What is the downside to running a 100% synthetic oil on run in?

If its bad i might drain it and put some cheapo stuff in.

use proper running in oil...its made for a reason

can get penrite and bursons sell their own brand also

use a high zinc diesel oil, like rimula X, gulf western topdogXDO or fuchs ultralube 1540 diesel.

the down side is synthetic oil doesn't alow the engine to bed in properly.
next, with a new engine, if you are not going to drive it DON'T START IT.
start it and drive it. don't worry about hurting it. If it's going to fail it will do so regardless.
just drive it.

anyone had a go with that nulon oil aditive? the one you see the sample on the bench in the auto shop with the gears and the oil sticks to them? i chucked some in this service with some decent enough oil (maybe its a little think)

I notice when the car first starts its a little sluggish than before, but once its warm its fine. i'll see how it goes when i change it next time.

Quote: "the further apart the numbers are the more constant the thickness of the oil. because it starts out thinner. "

I drive a Ford Falcon AU Forte 1999 Duel Fuel LPG/Petrol

What type of oil should I use? 5W30 or 10W30?

When i had my new engine fitted i used correct run in oil only. But its now done 30thou+ and im running it on Full synthetic 15W-50 Nulon Track/Street performance. Goes like a dream no excessive engine noise and i never loose oil pressure even if i drive foot to the floor etc etc. Its good stuff. Its roughly $60-$70 for the 5L bottle so price isn't too bad really for full synthetic.

Ford Falcon AU 1999 Forte (duel fuel LPG/Petrol), done 290,000kms


What's the best engine oil to use? (brand and viscosity)

Brad did you end up trialling the fush 0w20w in the AU?

Just curious - plan to get my head and bottom end replaced in the next coming few weeks(beefed up abit, minor port work and ACL rebuild kit) and considering post run-in period moving over to a full synthetic oil..

The EF's currently ticking quite a bit....not just startup - HLA's have been rpelaced twice (thought the first replacement set may have been dodgy but no) locally family mechanic's checked it out and looks to be sticking valves....manual turn over you can see various valves intermittently stick...

The tickings been there for a while used to only be startup (ran Castrol GTX3 15w40w) most of its life and moved over to magnatec 10w40w - this seemed to lower the pressure (used to sit quite high all the time) and stopped the startup ticking....after a further 30,000kms it now ticks alot under acceleration above 2000rpm...family mechanics switched me over to a valvoline 20w50w (XLD Premium gold label) - has had no effect - oil pressure sits in the middle and does drop low when at operating temp idling at lights etc but not low enough to bring on the low oil pressure light.

Although I'll only have this engine for a few more weeks was tempted to try running a decent full synthetic to see if theres any difference...not sure if it would help remove deposits etc around the valves as noticed on the second lifter change there was a bit of build up already (2nd set were installed the next weekend).

Cheers
Kev

I'd give up on the old engine with sticky valves. a two week stint with synth oil won't change anything. valvoline XLD is damn good oil, I've seen it out perform oils of twice the price in load bearing tests. I've also seen first hand what 300 000km+ old engine looks like after running XLD 15w40 it whole life, (5000km oil changes) it was very impressive.

one thing to check for noisy lifters is to make sure the head gasket isn't leaking. they can leak oil into the timing cover and you'll never even know it. I've seen that cause lifter noise a few times.

when you rebuild it, use 0.002" big end clearance and 0.0025" main clearance. use a new oil pump. standard volume is more then up to the job. the only thing i recommend with the oil pump is that you strip it completely clean it well and have the pressure spring checked on a valve spring checking scale. this tool gives you pressure verses spring height. then shim the spring to factory spec. When i did the engine in my ef the old oil pump needed 10mm of shims to bring it back to stock spec. i've seen a number of new pumps needing up to 5mm


Haven't run the 0w20 yet, i can't find anyone in townsville that keeps it in stock.
i also want to fit a good oil pressure gauge first.

I dont have any answers for your question, but I must say that I am using Nulon 10w40 High Tech Fast flowing oil on my engine and have found it to be impressive for my set up. It has also reduce the tappet noise I once had. I will be using this oil from now on.

Ive been using Valvoline Engine Armor 15w-40 for 3.5years and its been a great oil and have stuck with that oil since i first tired it as my engines sounded healtier and ran better and more oil pressure.

I might try the new Penrite 15w-40 Everyday Driving oil and see how that goes

i'd suggest you don't change oils. chopping and changing like that can do a fair amount of damage.

How to you drip some of the oils other then the crankcase?
i wanted to have them refilled all at the same time before i get redgo.
Well it is a long list.
Power steering: how to drip it?
Auto trans: again how to drip it?
Also dose it matter what brake fluid to buy for a EB Falcon 3.9 sedan?
All found out myself, thanks

My EB has done about 250K's it has been running 20w - 60 what would you guys recommend 15w-40 or 15w-50?

Id go the 15w-40.