Do it at work on a hoist. To me it seems you just have a case gen Y cant be f**k.

lol gen y can't be f**k? never heard of that. i'm forever working on someones car.
my work would never let me pull my car to bits in the workshop. and when would i get a full day to do it? they are only open half of saturday

hey guys what thinkness running in oil should i use for a rebuilt EL XR6 Tickford motor?

What was done to ur engine??? just a re-ring with new bearing and clean it up or hone bores, new pistons???

yep everything full rebuild.

if its a full reco with new pistons buy urself this product

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/s ... ing-in_oil

I'll have to check with my mate in regards to how long u should have the running in oil in before dropping it.

U should also invest in a filter magnet as its a fresh engine

http://www.filtermag.net.au/technology.html

here's one. what gearbox oil should i use in a T5

factory specifies dexron auto fluid.. i have used a few different types including gear oil..

in a high km slightly loose t5 i would use penrite sin80 fully synthetic gear oil..
in a good tight t5, castrol transmax z.synthetic auto fluid. awsome stuff..

it had 200,000kms on it. was fairly tight

i would go with the transmax z, you can use any dexron fluid but with a normal dexron fluid ford recommend a additive(cant think of its name).. thats why i go with the synthetic stuff, no additives needed..
i was running penrite synthetic gear oil in my old ea box, but it had over 400'000km..
the ef box im using now had been recently rebuilt so im running the transmax z...

Well Hello I am back again! Peoples from my Hyasis, But yeah my EL Running cool on 20w-50 after 275000Km anything thinner and she starts ticking like a peice of hardware in Iraq or Afghanistan yeah,

Lubrizol 7906

thats the stuff, thanks..

Changed the plan.
I did one sample at 10 000km and changed the oil at the same time.
Got the results back the other day. will post them up.
But basically it showed that silicon levels were acceptable (silicon levels show how well you air filter is doing.)
Wear metals like iron, aluminium, lead, tin, chromium, are all good
water content was below 1PPM
Fuel dilution was below %2
There was one strange high reading, can't recall what it was though, The lab couldn't give a reason for it but suggested I keep a close track of cooling system water usage.
i'll check tomorrow and scan and post the report.
The oil was also still in grade with virtually no viscosity change.


For the next tests i'm going to fit a genuine paper air filter and take the K&N one out to see if i can lower the silicon level.
And I'm going to make an effort to sample every 2500km and run the oil until the lab says to change to it. I want to see if i can extend the life of the enough to out weigh the extra cost of it over what i used to spend. (used to use Fuchs GTO 10W30 changed every 5000km)

As it was I proved that
1: Quality thin oil WILL protect your engine (thick oil lubes better....MYTH BUSTED)
2: That even at 10 000km Fuchs GT1 0W20 oil still had plenty of service life left.
3: At a point in my engines life (test started at 135 000km) where the advice from most people on this website is to use thicker oil, that using thinner oil then recommended resulted in ZERO oil consumption and no undue or excessive wear to my engine.


If anyone wants to argue and has used oil analysis results to back them, I'm more then happy to listen.

 

 

Attachments:

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oil.pdf [212.98 KiB] Downloaded 490 times

tickford_6,

Thanks for posting that up, very interesting reading.

Cheers

ToranaGuy