Shell Helix ULTRA is damn good! I used it for many years in my EF 6.....and my friend (who is an engineer at ford, and has driven many cars like mine) says that my EF went harder than any other one he has driven (fully stock ofcourse). I put it down to the oil....also because i was reading up on some oil tests that have been done, and shell ultra (5w40) has one of the best SHEAR (when oil loses its strength) rates of any other oil of the same price.


By the way, its been scientifically proven that the correct way to break in an engine is like this :

1. Sump full of cheap NON SYNTHETIC oil.

2. Start engine then start driving VERY EASY until engine reaches operating temp.

3. AS SOON as it reaches the operating temp (by the way at this point make sure your on a hi/free way and in 2nd gear (auto), 3rd gear (manual) ) from low revs put your foot flat on pedal (WOT) and hold it flat until u reach redline. Once at redlin, slam the throttle closed and let the car deccelarate by its own engine braking. (not "breaking"). When u chop the throttle at high revs the engine vacuum is huge!....and this 'vacuum' sucks out all the micro metal shavings from inside the combustion chambers. Then once your at low revs again give it flat stick and repeat this process again. Do this many many times. I would dedicate at least 1 whole day for this. Its all about putting the engine under LOAD. It pushes the Rings out against the Bore, 'grinding' them into shape, forming a 'uniform' surface with the bores themselves. Which in turn will give the best possible SEAL.
Whice THEN means your engine will experience MINIMAL possible 'Blow-By'. MINIMUL possible Oil consumpsion. BEST possible Fuel Economy. MAXIMUM possible Power & Torque!

Be sure to change your OIL & FILTER at 500k's. And DO NOT start using SYNTHETIC oil UNTIL 15,000k's!!!.

Feel free to PM me with any questions......or arguements, which i will prove wrong.

By the way, its been scientifically proven that the correct way to break in an engine is like this :

1. Sump full of cheap NON SYNTHETIC oil.

2. Start engine then start driving VERY EASY until engine reaches operating temp.

3. AS SOON as it reaches the operating temp (by the way at this point make sure your on a hi/free way and in 2nd gear (auto), 3rd gear (manual) ) from low revs put your foot flat on pedal (WOT) and hold it flat until u reach redline. Once at redlin, slam the throttle closed and let the car deccelarate by its own engine braking. (not "breaking"). When u chop the throttle at high revs the engine vacuum is huge!....and this 'vacuum' sucks out all the micro metal shavings from inside the combustion chambers. Then once your at low revs again give it flat stick and repeat this process again. Do this many many times. I would dedicate at least 1 whole day for this. Its all about putting the engine under LOAD. It pushes the Rings out against the Bore, 'grinding' them into shape, forming a 'uniform' surface with the bores themselves. Which in turn will give the best possible SEAL.
Whice THEN means your engine will experience MINIMAL possible 'Blow-By'. MINIMUL possible Oil consumpsion. BEST possible Fuel Economy. MAXIMUM possible Power & Torque!

Be sure to change your OIL & FILTER at 500k's. And DO NOT start using SYNTHETIC oil UNTIL 15,000k's!!!.

Feel free to PM me with any questions......or arguements, which i will prove wrong.

after this is done you then take car and bed rings in then for say 5000km do not sit on the one speed for to long (don,t drive Melb to Sydney at 110knm all the way step speed 30mins on 90 then 110 then back to 80 you just need to change your speed

Anyone tried castrol edge sport (5W-30W) in an EF?

Hey Guys
My AUIII XR6 has about 150 000 kms on it and i was wondering what oil i should use
this convo has confused me a little :S

Hey Guys
My AUIII XR6 has about 150 000 kms on it and i was wondering what oil i should use
this convo has confused me a little :S