|
| Grechie |
|
||
|
Alrighty...problem is still occuring, but theres more information discovered...
Ok... i have tried New Radiator New Thermostat New Coolant New Temperature Sensor New Radiator Cap New Bottom and Top Hoses Problem still occurs, temperature rises. Basically, if i leave my thermo fans on, bonnet down, and sit there for ages, temp will not raise...it sits still... If i hold revs up, on idle, to 2500rpm with thermos forced on, the temperature climbs, ~1/2 temp and only backs off when i let go of throttle... As soon as revs are increased this motor is heating up quickly, otherwise on idle, temperature hardly increases.... Basically this is what ive come to now, a problem with bad fluctuating temperature guage, but only when revs are increased/or load. Now this all happenend when the motor was takin to 5300rpm, i heard pinging at above 5grand so i backed off, and motor got to O (going ~150 clicks) then since then, the motors been heating up irratically and cooling down irratically Now im desperate, any comments WILL be appriciated... As i said, motor's heating up irratically under load (when driving then cooling down quiet a bit) or under revs on idle, (temperature increases pretty quickly). Somethings not flowing right, becuase IDLING with fans on for 20 mins doesnt make the temperature move at all, but increasing revs makes the temp guage move up quiet a bit. The only thing i havent tried is Water Pump...Its a burnsons one, dont know if that helps any one
_________________ Ford Falcon EA Naturally Aspirated 4.0L i6 |
||
| Top | |
||
| SgtBourne |
|
||
|
you heard pinging.. that'd be an alert wouldn't it?
maybe the water pump aint doing a thing?
_________________ So much RAM the motherboard twisted off the POST. |
||
| Top | |
||
| XH5LWEPN |
|
|||
|
Sounds like a bad earth somewhere giving an incorrect reading on the guage.
If the guage is rising that quickly with engine revs its definately an electrical fault, as engine revs increase, alt output increases with makes your guage rise. You could try unplugging alternator and revving it quickly, but dont keep it running as battery will be working its tits off.
_________________ STREETBUILT RACING |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Grechie |
|
||
|
SgtBourne wrote: you heard pinging.. that'd be an alert wouldn't it?
maybe the water pump aint doing a thing? hence why i backed off but by then temp was on the O
_________________ Ford Falcon EA Naturally Aspirated 4.0L i6 |
||
| Top | |
||
| alfy |
|
|||
|
tighten up your earth cable on the block. mine had the fluctuating temp guage thing, almost like a boost gauge, it would build up as the revs increased and go down when i put the clutch in and the revs dropped.
i tightened up the earth cable (which was very loose) and havent had that problem since.
_________________ 2021 V6 Manual Amarok - 245kw/750nm - many goodies |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Grechie |
|
||
|
Just went out and checked, the earth on the block is fine, nice and tight...and i checked the battery side, that was tight.
This has got to be the most annoying thing ever EDIT i forgot to add, the temp guage doesnt shoot up as soon as u hold the revs, it takes maybe 20 seconds with the revs held up at 2500 for it to go from normal operating temp to start rising as if theres no fans on
_________________ Ford Falcon EA Naturally Aspirated 4.0L i6 |
||
| Top | |
||
| mreb |
|
|||
|
maybe the head gaskets gone might be letting gasses into the water
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| galapogos01 |
|
|||
Posts: 1139 Joined: 27th Feb 2005 Ride: Supercharged EF Fairmont Location: T.I. Performance HQ |
i go for water pump, not pumping any coolant at low revs = low sensor reading. remember they only read the temp of the coolant thats in the thermostat housing.
_________________ T.I. Performance - Ford Performance Parts & Tuning - J3 Chips & Tuning, Fuel Pumps & Injectors, Camshafts, Haltech ECUs and more! |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| 67RCE |
|
||
|
get another temp guage (like Autometer or something) and use that instead of the standard Ford one
_________________ ILL60 - EF XR8, Sunroof, Ticky Kit, 19x8.5/19x11 TE37's, 347, AFr185's, TFS BoxRcustom converter, Hurst Quarterstick, huge billet cam. |
||
| Top | |
||
| TROYMAN |
|
||
|
have you tried a cooler thermostat? instead of a 92 deg try a 87 deg thermostat.
you said you heard some pinging? even if you cant hear the pinging after you back off slightly it doesnt mean its not still pinging. and if the engine heats up rather quickly under load i would be starting to worry. its either a headgasket/head problem about to give you grief or its something as simple as your ignition timing is out.. but i dont know exactly what model your talkin about? if its ea/ed or el just back the ignition timing back a few degrees and see how it goes. otherwise if its ef (coil pack) there isnt really any adjustment on the ignition timing. or it could be s**t fuel causing pinging? which could make the temp rise rather fast thats all i can think of right now..lol |
||
| Top | |
||
| Darkr |
|
|||
|
It will be the earth on the dash cluster.
The temp is probably fine. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| low_ryda |
|
|||
|
pretty confident thing to say for someone that doesn't have to pay to fix it when things do go pear shaped....
_________________ Not to get technical, but according to chemistry alcohol is a solution. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| DA22LE |
|
|||
|
Hey,
When the engine is apparently hot, get someone to check that there is flow from the radiator return hose to the fill tank, mine does so i expect yours should as well. You will then know that water pump is working, and it's more than likely, an electrical issue. As suggested, get an aftermarket gauge and use that instead. I am using one similar to below..... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/GAUGE-52mm-Water-Temp-NEW-Stepper-Motor-BLUE-AVAILABLE_W0QQitemZ320134932711QQihZ011QQcategoryZ102561QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem Very responsive and i believe it's quite accurate. Cheers  Daz
_________________ BA XR8 Boss 260 |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| snap0964 |
|
|||
|
Did you do what 66_coupe suggested in your original thread ??
You could try running it for a while without a thermostat - it should be probably just reaching N on normal, and that's it's limit. If that's the case, then the new thermostat will be most likely ok. Are your under manifold hoses hooked up correctly - is the heater valve in the correct flow direction ?? When the heater and blower fan is on high heat, is there hot air coming out ?? (air locks can be stubborn) I always thought the rad upper hose will be quite hot at normal op temp (hot water exiting the engine), and the lower to be quite cooler (after rad cools).
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Grechie |
|
||
|
You's wouldnt Fken beilive it...
99% of you's were right $310 later, we find, the old thermostat and new thermostat, werent opening, brand new faulty... we put both in a glass, boiled the kettle, and poured water in, and none opened. So i have a old one that was good but it broke, and a new one that was broke from factory ? time for a new thermostat
_________________ Ford Falcon EA Naturally Aspirated 4.0L i6 |
||
| Top | |
||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 101 guests |
