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| FORDom |
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Hey guys, noticed today some slight pinging on acceleration in the heat..
im running a hi-comp au motor with the correct NGK iridium plugs (plugs and motor less then 4000km's old..) i know with my old motor it did the same but it meant the plugs were out(standard ones) and i replaced them every 3000km's or so.. any ideas why this is happening? thought the iridiums were meant to last UPTO 100 000km's? does it mean the motor is running too hot and i should cool it down with a cooler thermostat and running the thermo's on full? p.s im using shell or caltex 98 fuel.. |
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| TROYMAN |
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what heat range are the plugs? and yes iridiums should last 80-100,000kms..
things like air intake temp can have an effect on pinging aswell.. have you connected up a knock sensor?? |
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| FORDom |
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i think its 1 colder then standard (6?)
i think my large mouth snorkle is not being sealed by the bonnet liner and letting in hot air.. and to be honest im not sure if theres a knock sensor wired up, but im fairly confident it is.. might try a bottle of octane booster in with the 98 to see if it helps.. (i have a box of about 20 spare anyway) |
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| DA22LE |
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I think the iridium plugs are S%#T......put in some ngk std ones or one range colder. Maybe try BP Ultimate.... Shell fuel is dodgy..IMHO
I would check your timing..... Cheers Daz
_________________ BA XR8 Boss 260 |
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| krisisdog |
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Daz, timing is ECU controlled.
In your sig bud you've listed that you its untuned... theres your problem and answer. |
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| -GAS-MAN- |
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Timing is only set by ecu -/+ 4 degrees of base ignition set by distributor.
Hot air intake is not a terrible thing, increases flame propagation; leading to a more complete burn and expels heat from the combustion chamber. So you will go further on less fuel, but you will have slightly less power (hardly noticeable) but your throttle response will increase; i found the throttle response increase to be a huge sale point for me, made the car alot more driveable. Ignition timing adjustment process: 1. Get a white marker and draw a straight line across your distributor and its cap. (This is very important unless you are experienced) 2. 13mm socket, one long and one short extender arms or two long ones and a ratchet, piece them together, loosen the nut at the base of the engine oil dipstick, this allows the cap to twist. 3. To advance timing; counter clockwise and inversely; a clockwise turn will retard your timing  Try moving it about 2-3mm at a time, (ie tiny adjustments) The white line you drew is important because twisting too far can lead to bigger problems and ALOT more confusion All the best
_________________ it can be fast and cheap,but it wont be reliable |
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| -GAS-MAN- |
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Oh it very well could be your running too thinner oil, what winter you running?
_________________ it can be fast and cheap,but it wont be reliable |
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| TROYMAN |
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-GAS-MAN- wrote: Timing is only set by ecu -/+ 4 degrees of base ignition set by distributor. Hot air intake is not a terrible thing, increases flame propagation; leading to a more complete burn and expels heat from the combustion chamber. So you will go further on less fuel, but you will have slightly less power (hardly noticeable) but your throttle response will increase; i found the throttle response increase to be a huge sale point for me, made the car alot more driveable. Ignition timing adjustment process: 1. Get a white marker and draw a straight line across your distributor and its cap. (This is very important unless you are experienced) 2. 13mm socket, one long and one short extender arms or two long ones and a ratchet, piece them together, loosen the nut at the base of the engine oil dipstick, this allows the cap to twist. 3. To advance timing; counter clockwise and inversely; a clockwise turn will retard your timing Try moving it about 2-3mm at a time, (ie tiny adjustments) The white line you drew is important because twisting too far can lead to bigger problems and ALOT more confusion All the best dude his car is an ef... no dizzy its coil pac.. |
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| FORDom |
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yeh its coil pack..
and the dyno run was untuned, its now tuned but no new figure as yet.. running penrite 5w40 semi synthetic.. |
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| -GAS-MAN- |
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5w40, why? 15w40 all the way no excuses!
Quite seriously, dont change oil grades !
_________________ it can be fast and cheap,but it wont be reliable |
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| TROYMAN |
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-GAS-MAN- wrote: 5w40, why? 15w40 all the way no excuses! Quite seriously, dont change oil grades ! umm dude.. oil viscosity has nothing to do with pinging.... |
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| DARTHVADER |
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Is having too thinner oil a factor in detonation??? I cant see how it would make any real difference! Please enlighten me.
 MITCHY
_________________ AUIII, PACEY 4499's, MAGNIFLOW CAT, 2.5" ZORST, 17X8" AUII XR RIMS....otherwise all factory! |
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| FORDom |
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its an au motor (freshly rebuilt) ..all oil guides recommend 10w30 and my oil cap (original) says 5w30.
i thought 5w40 as its getting a bit hot and will switch to 5w30 in winter.. |
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| krisisdog |
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GAS-MAN; no.
Mate I'd take your car back for a re-tune, no excuses for pinging if it was tuned for that fuel. |
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| TROYMAN |
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yea i agreed! if it has been tuned it shouldnt be pinging..
who tuned it??? |
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