How do you know you have only run up to 10:1 ?
10.5:1 could be totally different.

You would make bigger gains in torque and power and run 91 octane without detonation by limiting the compression ratio and using a cam with a high dynamic compression ratio.

10:1 is approximately a 50 thou shave off the head ( maximum limit) or fill in the piston domes/less dish.

When you take that much off the head, with a new timing chain tensioner and oil tensioner you may still get timing chain rattle.

i know this because with an aftermarket ecu, the tune will suit the engine. no tunner in his right mind would tune an engine to detonate.

You dont need to take 50thou off the head if you use high compression pistons.
with a 1mm over ACL race pistons9 and AU gasket and a 15thou deck you need a 60cc chamber.

if he used AU rods and pistons, ACL race pistons for the AU are flat tops with a valve cut out that is 0.5cc you could use 65cc chamber.

1mm over replacment pistons you need a 57cc camber

with stock factory built bottom end with an ef gasket you need a 52cc chamber.

with stock factory bottom end with an AU gasket you need a 55cc chamber.


thats the bonus of this engine. He is starting from scratch and wants to use an aftermarket ECU.
so why not use that to his advantage.

over bore and high comp pistons mean less head machining, so no more chain rattle problems.
tight piston/ head clearence help to reduce the chance of detonation.

worring about trying to run the stock ECU, not wating to rebuild the bottom end, using head machining as the the olny way to raise compression and worrying about chain rattle, is the reason so many people are dissapointed with the results that get they start modifying thier engines.

if people woke up to the fact that in order run longer duration cams, you need more compression.
if people woke up to the fact that the stock ECU although it will the engine it WILL NOT run it to it's optimum.
if people woke up to the fact that a worn engine will make less power then a fresh engine.
We would have forum full of 160+ RWKW cars intead of one with a bunch of people who have 130odd rwkw and hundreds of threads about why thier engine doesn't make the power it should BLAH BLAH BLAH..


end rant

very informative there tickford 6, i think im pretty pleased with 142.8rwk from cam and exhaust forma 200k motor, next stage in xtc aftermarket comp then find a head to play with and that will do me if i can see the 160-175 mark which im sure is reachable ill be pretty happy with it atm im running the 1673 looking at wither goin the 1521a from wade of smthin igger from cro yet to work that one out

can i ask what the best MPH you run at the drags with power?

i have quiet a few time slips best mph was

94.48mph @ 15.5333 and best 1/4 time was 15.4036@ 91.63mph

Havnt been in a manual for a long time and only had the gearbox in 3-4 days prior to the heathcote runs, so i have shifts down a bit better now maybe run better times next time. Im sure with an experianced racer they do me a better time

Another question boys... What sort of times would an auto run down the quarter when compared to a manual..? I know manual's would probably run faster times with a good driver but I'm just talking in general.

I'm only just waking up to the fact that all the bigger power E-series on here are manuals. Am I asking for trouble by aiming for 140rwkw on a currently standard auto?

This is what I've decided to do...
- Clean up the head, pressure and flow test it, then get any more work done to it that it may need.
- ACL re-build kit through the block with performance pistons.
- AU head gasket.
- Standard ECU/auto trans friendly cam.

I will look into the block work mentioned, especially balancing, but I'm thinking that the cost of it all will end up being well and truly over what I am willing to spend and I know it won't give me much of a result. I don't race my car so I don't see a point in building a race engine. What I've listed above, if done properly, should see me over the 140rwkw mark. I can always modify the trans, fit a mega squirt and bigger cam later on down the track if I decide to blow the money on it.

Head arrived today.

The ports all feel very smooth which I'm assuming is what they're meant to feel like if they've been ported and polished...

Haven't taken the cam completely out but it had an engraving on one end of it. I think it is 813B/801N with a 1x down the bottom. Anyone help me out with these?





All the coolant channels are in good condition with no corrosion so I'm happy.

However it is just a standard 94AB head.

Stage No - 1
Grind No - CT006 813B/801A
Description - Smooth idle, good bottom end and mid range power. Suitable for std or slightly modified engines. RPM RANGE 1500-5500
Trans-mission - ANY
Cam Timing - IN 18-57 EX 50-14
Advertised Duration - IN 255* EX 244*
Duration @ 050' - IN 214* EX 208*
Cam Lift - IN .241 EX .240
Lobe Sep - 110*
Running Clearance IN 000 EX 000
Valve Springs



http://www.camtechcams.com.au/cat/ford.html


sorry formatted it best i could

You're a legend. Cheers for that.

So this is probably just about the best cam I could get for low down power with standard ECU and auto trans?

HI. IT'S A CAMTECH CAM STAGE 1. I'VE GOT IT IN MY ENGINE.
GREAT CAM. PLENTY OF TORQUE. MY ENGINE MADE 120RWKW & 385NM.
SMASHED PLENTY OF V8 HOLDENS & EVEN XR6'S.

You say that head has been ported & polished. Looks like they didn't do much with the exhaust ports. Heres my head ( 94AB) that I'm currently doing. I haven't finnished it yet, but I hope it works OK.

 

 

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My 4.0 EF cyl head 020.jpg [ 367.6 KiB | Viewed 164 times ]

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What is the diameter of the exhaust port ?

You couldnt get that combustion chamber any shinier. What did you use?

man spoodge!!!!!!

have you decided what pistons your going to use? After I finish spending enough money to get my car ready for skidpan which is just in the new year im getting a new engine to go in my EL. Haven't decided if I will go with the ACL 5cc dish or ACL AU pistons though....