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| thepistonhead |
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I've been researching how to do this to my EF and AU.
I'm just not clear on this part: So i replace reservoir from old to new fluid, and proceed to begin bleeding the air out @ back left wheel. I attach the pipe to the nipple, but how long do i pump the brakes for? Until air stops coming out? Or until the old fluid stops coming out and new fluid only comes out? Any other tips for a first timer? Planning on doing it by myself, so using the jar half filed with water trick while pumping the pedals myself. Also, do i also start at back left for AU? Regards. Edit, 302 posts! I'm never posting again! hahaha
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| comhelp |
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Age: 41 Posts: 638 Joined: 6th Nov 2004 Ride: 1994 Ford EF Fairmont Ghia Sedan Location: Melbourne |
Do yourself a favour. If you are doing it by yourself, pop down to super cheap and they have a one man bleed kit for about $10 or $15 bucks. It will lessen the risk of getting water in your brake lines which you do not want to do.
Yes you are correct, start at the rear passenger side first, then rear drivers side, then front passenger side then front drivers side. Pump them till no air bubbles and new fluid comes out. Keep in mind that doing it by yourself, you may not get a hard feeling brake peddle as the trick to get a hard brake peddle is to turn off the nipple mid pump 
_________________ 1994 ford fairmont ghia - Currently 302 with T5 - Work in progress |
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| thepistonhead |
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comhelp wrote: Do yourself a favour. If you are doing it by yourself, pop down to super cheap and they have a one man bleed kit for about $10 or $15 bucks. It will lessen the risk of getting water in your brake lines which you do not want to do. Yes you are correct, start at the rear passenger side first, then rear drivers side, then front passenger side then front drivers side. Pump them till no air bubbles and new fluid comes out. Keep in mind that doing it by yourself, you may not get a hard feeling brake peddle as the trick to get a hard brake peddle is to turn off the nipple mid pump Thanks for the reply! How about if i fill the jar with new brake fluid so that *if* any gets sucked up it's not harmful? This procedure is the same for both AU and EF? The EF is an 8 if that's different (doubt it is). Ahh, i thought so. It's the most logical thing 
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| comhelp |
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Age: 41 Posts: 638 Joined: 6th Nov 2004 Ride: 1994 Ford EF Fairmont Ghia Sedan Location: Melbourne |
I mean you can try but it will kinda defet the purpose i think as you would be sucking back in old fluid on the return pump
_________________ 1994 ford fairmont ghia - Currently 302 with T5 - Work in progress |
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| 89.SVO |
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Age: 35 Posts: 3382 Joined: 11th Mar 2008 Ride: EA SVO, AU2, Toyota Crown Location: Bendigo |
pump it through til the new fluid comes out. get the person in the car to hold the pedal on the floor, close the nipple. get them to put the pedal til it firms up. do that for each wheel and you should have a problem. make sure after every wheel you check the fluid reservoir and top up
_________________ Daily driver: 2010 Toyota Crown hybrid 3.5L V6 hybrid. 254kw. |
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| tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
DO NOT push the pedal all the way to the floor. You risk damaging the piston seals in the master cyl.
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| sherro |
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tickford_6 wrote: DO NOT push the pedal all the way to the floor. You risk damaging the piston seals in the master cyl. By pushing the break pedal down to the floor? |
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| arm79 |
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thepistonhead wrote: I'm just not clear on this part: If you're not 100% clear on how to bleed, it might be worth taking it to a brakes place. Most of them will do a fluid swap for $40 to $50. sherro wrote: tickford_6 wrote: DO NOT push the pedal all the way to the floor. You risk damaging the piston seals in the master cyl. By pushing the break pedal down to the floor? Yep. |
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| thepistonhead |
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arm79 wrote: thepistonhead wrote: I'm just not clear on this part: If you're not 100% clear on how to bleed, it might be worth taking it to a brakes place. Most of them will do a fluid swap for $40 to $50. sherro wrote: tickford_6 wrote: DO NOT push the pedal all the way to the floor. You risk damaging the piston seals in the master cyl. By pushing the break pedal down to the floor? Yep. Yes, i realize this but i want to learn how to do it.
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| sooty72 |
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That is correct. If the pedal goes all the way to the floor, it makes the piston and seals in the master cylinder run in an area of the master cylinder bore that has not been used, and it will have a different surface to the regularly used area. This can damage the rubber cups/seals in the master cylinder, and it will need to be rebuilt or replaced. What I do when having a helper pump the brake pedal, is tell them to put there spare foot under the brake pedal so the pedal will not travel too far. It's always worked for me.
Also, Fords can sometimes have problems getting air out of the rears, so it might help to jack the rear of the car as high as possible, to get the bleed nipples as close to (or above) the height of the fluid reservoir. Hope that helps. Good luck. 
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| thepistonhead |
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sooty72 wrote: Also, Fords can sometimes have problems getting air out of the rears, so it might help to jack the rear of the car as high as possible, to get the bleed nipples as close to (or above) the height of the fluid reservoir. Hope that helps. Good luck. Ahh thanks for the tip Also, what size is the bleeder nipple? What size pipe/hose should i use and where can i get them from?
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| Linkachu |
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Get yourself a friend to help.
I used a one man bleeder kit and it didnt work that well. Its a 2 person job. |
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| phongus |
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Linkachu wrote: Get yourself a friend to help. I used a one man bleeder kit and it didnt work that well. Its a 2 person job. I did mine by myself and worked just fine...
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| thepistonhead |
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phongus wrote: Linkachu wrote: Get yourself a friend to help. I used a one man bleeder kit and it didnt work that well. Its a 2 person job. I did mine by myself and worked just fine... Any tips? Tips on how to get a 'hard' pedal?
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| phongus |
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thepistonhead wrote: phongus wrote: Linkachu wrote: Get yourself a friend to help. I used a one man bleeder kit and it didnt work that well. Its a 2 person job. I did mine by myself and worked just fine... Any tips? Tips on how to get a 'hard' pedal? Well I have never had a hard pedal feel in my car. So as long as it felt the same and I could brake I was happy. To be honest I have never driven an E-series with hard pedal feel... .I just did the fronts after changing the brake hoses. Leave the brake reservoir lid open, top it up and open the bleed valve (10mm spanner I believe) with the one way bleed hose connected. Push the pedal down slowly...put a shoe or a piece of wood under the brake pedal to stop you from pushing it too far. It took me about 15 seconds to push the pedal down once...not sure if this was too slow but the pedal did feel hard and I didn't want to break anything, to be honest I am not sure if this was normal. If you push it down too hard you might brake the booster or some seal (can't remember what, but you can break something). I pumped the pedal about 10 times on the front passenger side...mainly because I couldn't see the jar and if any bubbles came out. Front drivers side I only did about 6 or 7 pumps to clear out the bubbles. Make sure you check the reservoir after a few pumps and top up as necessary. Brakes aren't spongy, but pedal has a soft feel rather than the touchy hard feel like some Toyota cars I have driven have.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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