The operation of the Right Hand Cooling Fan Motor looks simple (i don't know if that is right hand when looking into the engine bay from the front of the vehicle, or when looking forward say from the drivers seat, but it doesn't matter).

The operation of the RH fan is as follows. Pin 33 sends a trigger current through the "L" wire which activates relay 2, the trigger current then enters the "RG" (red & green) wire and exits through the "Auto TX fuse". The relay's main current comes from the alternator through the yellow wire, through the fan fuse, passes through the relay, then enters the orange wire which drives the RH fan, and the current exits through the black wire to ground.

The wiring for this is simple and in my case already in place except for the "Auto TX fuse", which i need to learn about.

One thing i've been wondering about is how they achieve the two speeds. If a full 12v power supply gives full speed, how then is the half speed achieved? There is no heat sink resistor fitted that i know of, so i can only think the voltage is reduced, i.e. by running them in parallel for full power (12v each) and in series (6v each) for half power? I should be able to determine this from the wiring diagram. So it's time for another look . . .

Realistically, as much as i would like to understand it, and i'll keep working on it, all i need to do is connect my red/green wire to an "auto TX fuse", whatever that is - help?, and mine should work.

That's tricky, relay 2 is a two position relay. How does that work? How does one trigger setup determine which way the main current flows? Does the direction of current through the trigger wires determine the path of the main current? Answers to these aren't crucial.

I think the two position relay works by being in one position when there is no voltage in the trigger wire, and when the trigger wire has voltage the relay switches to the other position. Thus the relay is called an "N/C" relay, i.e. "Normally Closed".

Today, while waiting for an answer on where the auto tx fuse is, i modified my washer bottle. I did this because i want more water on the windscreen. Too often one or more of the jets is lacklustre, and even at their best they're not as good as they should be. So i wanted two washer pumps, one for each set of jets on each side of the bonnet.

I had considered putting a larger bottle in the boot, or putting a second or larger one where my battery used to be, but decided against these. I'm just going to get into the habit of filling the bottle more regularly.

Thankfully, the bottle is already moulded to fit two washer pumps, so all i had to do to the bottle was drill a 13mm hole for the pump inlet. A rubber plug is required where the pump plugs into the bottle, and interestingly there is another of the same plug fitted between the pump and a metal tube that plays a role in locating the pump. Out of all of the plugs i had, i picked the best one. I had a couple of spare pumps, and they are dated so i picked the newest, which came off my oldest car.

The next step which i haven't done yet is to modify the tubing to suit. One could if one wanted to just use a T-piece and run both pumps into the original single tube. What i don't like about this is that a restriction in one jet sees the water taking the path of least resistance out of another jet, and you end up with a dry spot on the windscreen. Only a bit more effort will see each pump being dedicated to each set of jets.

The last step is to modify the wiring harness. You might be tempted to just plug in the existing unused electrical plug (sedan models), but that will not be activated when you try to wash the windscreen. Since i have a wreck of the same car, i plan to remove both of it's plugs and splice them together and work out a way to plug this into the existing plug. That way the good car's wiring is kept stock.

Yesterday i received an EF/EL/XH a/c pump from a wrecker through ebay for $31 plus $20 postage. It arrived clean with plugs where the hoses go, well packaged and promptly. The only negative was i asked if the oil was still in there but got no answer. Other wreckers had quoted $150 and $275!

I then fitted it to my AU motor using EF/EL brackets ($15 from another wrecker), and to my EBII's a/c pipes. Then i had to bend the pipes.

The hose going forward was right next to the edge of the thermo fan shroud, so i bent the pipe down a bit at the pump end, and at the other end which is mounted under the head light i pulled it towards the passenger side a fair amount until the hose had more than 15mm clearance from the thermo shroud.

The one going backwards towards the firewall needed a lot of work before i could fit the BA airbox and inlet flextube. At the pump end i bent i forwards and sideways towards the middle of the thermo fans. Doing this moved it away from the airbox and lowered the hose so it could fit under the flextube. I did what i could to support the pipe in attempt to minimise the bending in the already bent area. I don't think it made much difference, but still think it was worth it. The already bent area is now fairly ovoid in shape and has a certain twist. I can't feel any cracks with my finger, cross fingers there aren't any and none will form. The hose is now about one inch from the bbm, enough room for movement without rubbing.

At the firewall end i found that loosening the two allen headed bolts and twisting the pipe made the hose lower and closer to the bbm. Then i pushed the pipe down and somewhere near the firewall gave a bit, and this end now looked good.

There was still slight contact with the flextube, so to finish it off i put a zip-tie between the hose and the heater pipe, to keep the hose a little lower.

So, should i add oil so i can run the motor till i get the a/c sorted out and regassed? If so what type of oil?

you dont need to add oil..
when you get it gassed tell them it came off another car..
as the oil is carried through the system in the gas so they will add oil to the gas when they re-gass it..

AIRBOX MOUNTING RUBBERS

The other day i put my bonnet back on and realised that the top of the BA airbox slightly fouled the underside of the EB bonnet. Someone else mentioned on this forum that they swapped the rubber mounting grommets from their EA-EL airbox into the BA airbox because they are thinner. At the time they didn't seem to mention why. I now know why, and have done this mod, and it works. I needed to increase the size of the dimple in my guard in order for the box to be able to sit lower.

LPG MIXER & FLEXTUBE

A while ago i fitted my lpg mixer into my inlet. Since my mixer is designed for hose clamps at each end i couldn't fit it into the mouth of the crosspipe, next to the throttle body, which is considered the best location.

I found that a short section of rubber tube with bulged sides connected the mixer to the crosspipe inlet nicely. At the other end, i found that the BA flextube is almost designed to be shortened and remain neat and easy to use. It's obvious when you look at one. All you need is a stanley knife. The only thing is it becomes challenging to get it over the airbox tube, but it can be done and doesn't need to be done again.

AU SERPENTINE

Recently i bought an AU and an EF/EL aftermarket serpentine belt so i could work out from home which if any was suitable. I have an AU motor with AU accessories except for an EF/EL a/c pump. The AU belt is roughly 2" longer than the EF/EL belt. I found that the AU belt just fitted nicely. I didn't try the EF/EL belt because i don't reckon i could get it on.

I did some full throttle testing the other day and the car is a flyer! I couldn't believe the difference. The bottom end is similar, the mid-range is better, then whoa, when the bbm switches and the engine comes on cam, coupled with the BA intake and 2.5" mandrel exhaust, it's like a small turbo has finally spooled up, and it let's fly. It is still going hard at 160km/h.

Then i put the big wheels on the back and the performance went out the window, again. I'll have to change the diff ratio.

To sort out the timing i did heaps of full throttle testing, only to find out if i advance it too far it pings during mild off-the-mark acceleration, or at startup!

When the timing is retarded the engine is a slug until the bbm kicks in, and then the performance is much like it is when the timing is right. It's like a wacky turbo car. The upper reaches don't care so much about the timing.

I was finding that the engine was idling too low rather too high, so i enlarged the small holes in the ISC gasket to be as per normal.

However i am still finding that the engine is idling too low. I recall that ford at some point reduced the idle speed dramatically, and i'm thinking that was with the AU. But maybe the EL ECU can't do the low idle. Is the AU ECU batch fire, could that be the difference? I am considering increasing the idle speed.

good writeup heaps of usful info there for others....

what cam have u got in it?

standard AU.

With standard size wheels the bbm switch is really noticeable, but with the big wheels not very much.

I did the testing with the snorkel off because i'm cable tying the front on at the moment and it would have been an a*** to take it on and off to make timing changes. I wish i had done another run with the snorkel on before i put the big wheels on, but i didn't.

It was performing really well without the snorkel. Even with the mixer it revved freely and i once hit the rev limiter. Maybe it slowed a bit just before the limiter.