I am doing an AU motor full conversion into an EBII. Here's a list:

ENGINE
- standard AU 2001 motor 110,000km, 6mths parts & labour warranty . . . [$450 secondhand]
- AU std alloy sump, modify and strengthen crossmember to clear sump
- AU std harmonic balancer

ACCESSORIES / BRACKETS
- AU/BA/BF alternator (plugs straight in) . . . [$50 secondhand, $30 postage]
- AU bellhousing (get extra bolts for it, particularly the type that join the bridges to the EA-EL bellhousing) . . . [$95 secondhand]
- AU serpentine belt . . . [$60 genuine ford, $40 aftermarket]
- EA-ED engine mounts
- XF-BF starter motor
- EF/EL/XH a/c compressor pump (bend EBII tubing) . . . [$31 secondhand, $20 postage]
- EF/EL a/c pump brackets and bolts (three of each) . . . [$15 secondhand]
- EF/EL/AU p/s pump . . . [upon request came with motor]
- EF-BA waterpump . . . [was removed from motor, fitted a low kay spare i already had]
- EBII fuel pump

INTAKE
- AU lower bbm (including AU injectors & AU fuel pressure regulator)
- AU vacuum solenoid & blue/black valve for bbm switching . . . [$33 secondhand]
- EL upper bbm (I already had this. The AU upper could be used with modification)
- EBII ISC
- EA-EL MAP sensor
- EL accelerator pedal assembly (bolts straight in) . . . [$30 secondhand]
- EL throttle cable . . . [$30 secondhand]
- BA crosspipe, flextube, airbox (dimple guard and swap in EA-EL mounting rubbers to fit airbox), snorkel (shave thermo fan shroud for clearance) . . . [total $85 secondhand]

ELECTRICS
- EA/EB/ED/EL distributor
- EA/EB/ED/EL ignition coil (mounted on strip of 25mm x 3mm mild steel going from manifold bolt to spare engine mount bolt hole)
- fit EBII engine wiring loom to AU motor
- EL ECU 6cyl auto (60 pin, plugs straight in) . . . [$50 secondhand]
- smartlock bypass module (the EL ECU is smartlock but my car is not. The wiring is easy, refer instructions) . . . [$135 module new, $15 postage]
- wire up bbm vacuum solenoid switch (red wire splices to ecu pin 37 or 57 (+12v ignition), green wire to ecu pin 15)
- wire up thermos (blue trigger wire to ecu pin 33, blue with white stripe trigger wire to ecu pin 53, red with green stripe wire add 15A fuse & splice into alternator power wire)
- wire up knock sensor (use AU knock sensor plug scavenged from AU engine harness. White wire goes to yellow wire which goes to ecu pin 46, red wire goes to yellow with a red stripe wire which splices into ecu pin 23) . . . [$33 just wanted plug but got whole secondhand AU engine harness]

COOLANT SYSTEM
- EBII radiator (EF/EL 3-core radiator is best)
- EF/EL/AU upper thermostat housing incl. alloy pipe for rad hose
- EBII lower thermostat housing incl. temp sensors
- EBII-AU gasket for between thermostat housing and block
- AU thermostat and thermostat gasket . . . [$25 new]
- EF/EL upper radiator hose . . . [$25 new]
- EBII lower radiator hose (shortened and fitted over a short section of smaller hose to suit longer & smaller dia water pump pipe) . . . [$30 new]
- EF/EL/AU heater hoses . . . [$40 new]
- 3/4"ID x 6"long heater hose to heater tap . . . [~$2 new]
- reservoir to radiator hose . . . [~$25 new]
- overflow hoses & link hose 2.5m 10mmID . . . [~$15 new]
- EL thermofans (i swapped the fans and wiring to make the plug exit from the lower drivers side) . . . [$85 secondhand]
- EL thermo relays/fuse/wiring (i got most of an EL's engine bay wiring, refer section titled "electrics") . . . [$68 secondhand]

CONSUMABLES
- 10W30 engine oil 6L . . . [$36 new]
- engine oil filter part no.Z9 . . . [$10 new]
- coolant (up to 15 litres). . . [$50 new]



Updated again 25th June 2008
Updated again 2nd July 2008
Again 10th July 2008
Again, again . . .

Last edited by relaxed_diplomacy on Mon Jan 05, 2009 12:44 am, edited 24 times in total.

-Fuel pump will be fine. Newy can only hurt the wallet though

-Standard rad will be fine. Just get a new EF/EL rad, so the bottom hose matches. Saves d**k around with adaptors.

-Yep EL upper hose if you are using EF/EL/AU upper thermostat housing.

-As above, EF/EL hose to match EF/EL/AU/BA waterpump

-Second hand or new, the second hand genuine ones are probably better if you can find some for a decent price.

-Leave stock intake IMO, I'm not a massive beleiver in d**k around with it. Gains vs effort and all that. Just get an AU XR8 snorkel.

-Engine mounts will need to be EA-ED to match K Frame

-EA-EL same type coolant temp sensor, if thats what you mean?

-You mean whether to use a coolant temp sensor or not? Yes use one if thats what you mean.

-EA-EL same MAP, EBII will be fine with EL ECU.

-EA-BF same starter motor.

Like Steady ED said, the EB II will be fine with the EL ecu. EBII had smartlock.

not all eb2 had smartlock was only from sept 92 onwards.

Correct, my EBII (April 92) does not have smartlock and I needed to get a smartlock bypass module.

I have an EL ECU. PM me for a price.

Cheers
BenJ

On the question of how long the EB might last, with the deep knocking and what appears to be a blown rear main seal, I'd be counting the hours not weeks. It may last that long but more likely to let let go any moment. Don't get too far from home!!
Don't forget one of the heater hoses through the firewall is different from an EB and the hose from the coolant bottle to the side of the radiator is different, though it can be modified with a sharp knife.
Read BenJ's thread re. the simple fuel lines mod to retain the screw on connections at the BBM. When you order your engine, see if the seller will leave the fuel lines to the manifold on for you.
Use the 'Thermostat' temp sender if your using EL t/stat housing. Ask Troyman, if he doesn't join in.
Agree with Steady_ED BUT again refer to Ben's thread in the Garage forum for modifications to the airbox that work [with that snorkel].
PM Bunter re. the fans, he may relent and allow a courier pick up, unless you're going to be in Sydney and can pick them up yourself. Delegate's not that easy to ship to is it, so a lot depends on the end cost. LOL
Good list and good research, congratulations.
Cheers,
Mac

I'd just like to say thanks to everyone so far for the excellent responses. It makes a big difference, and is much appreciated.

I'll work through each one now.

Okay, EBII fuel pump it is.


Okay, EBII radiator can be used. But are there radiator upgrade options to consider? I might be doing things with this car that are unusually hard work and am concerned these fords don't have as much reserve as many other cars.


Okay. Do i have the choice of using an AU thermostat housing with EL upper rad hose, or an EBII thermostat housing with EBII upper hose? If so what are the pro's and con's? Clearance? Accessibility?


Okay, EF/EL lower rad hose.


I have two EB radiators but both seem clogged. I got my XG one done professionally recently and it looks fairly easy as long as i can find something thin yet stiff enough. I might try doing one of the EB ones myself, the only risk i see is if a leak in the seal to the tank develops unnoticed. I could probably get new seals from the bloke that did my XG one.


The stock intake is EBII and therefore unsuitable for BBM. So i have the choice of any intake that works. I think i have seen some use BA intakes in these models, at least from the manifold to and including the box. My impression is these flow better than earlier versions? Remember i have a mixer in there, so better flow to counteract that is probably good.


Excellent, EBII engine mounts are the go.


What i'm not sure about is, is there a temp sensor in the EL and/or AU block? And if so, does that mean adding wires from that to the EL ECU?


Okay, so the EBII MAP is good for EL ECU and AU motor.


Excellent, have two EBII starter motors.

Yes, mine is pre-smartlock. I'm glad actually, except for having to get and fit a bypass. Although it still has electric powered door locks, scary if the battery goes flat or i lock the keys in the car away from home. I think i looked the bypasses up on the internet and made them a favourite, from memory they are made by the same mob that also makes shiftkits(?).


Okay, thanks for the offer, i may be getting close to starting my purchases and may contact you then. I recall when "black boxes" were first fitted to cars and everyone said people were nuking them jumpstarting and they were $1000 plus to replace. Now i see them advertised on the internet for $20! Screws my head. I'd rather a better source than ebay though. I may be able to get virtually everything from a reputable wrecker i know, but i don't know at this stage.

double posted (?)

Last edited by relaxed_diplomacy on Mon Jun 09, 2008 11:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Bugger. I wasn't sure whether there might be a big failure or just ever higher oil consumption. Sometimes it sounds okay, the knocking varies and more often than not you don't notice it. Although, at the moment it seems like the oil might go from the top to the bottom of the full mark within a tank of fuel.


This is new to me. Can you tell me more?


Does it just need shortening?


On the EBII the fuel lines to the fuel rail are held in place with hose clamps. Is the AU different? Or are you talking about the hoses to the carbon cannister?


I have clarified my question in relation to the temp senders in a previous post. Maybe you have a response to that?

You mention an EL thermostat housing. I actually have a spare one of those i could use. So i will have EBII, EL and AU housings at my disposal. Which do you think would be most suitable?

Some more questions have arisen:
- I have a full kit of spare EL accessories and brackets from my EL motor. Are all of these interchangeable with AU accessories and brackets? This is no big deal as i will get AU accessories, but it's good to know.
- Will the AU p/s pump connect straight to the EBII?


I made comments about the intake in a previous post. Maybe you have a response to that? I know Nigel might have a suitable setup. Also i recall fordmans. ?


Being so far away creates complex logistics . . . . . . . , but i'm slowly learning where and how to get stuff. I'd rather sell the XG and then do the conversion, but then i wouldn't be able to drive anywhere and pick up any extra parts i need along the way. No amount of planning will see me have everything i need before i start, by my thinking.


Thanks. I hope it's of value to others as well.

Firstly, I'm not that familiar with AU engines, only EB2-EL.
Of the two heater hoses that go through the firewall, the one that goes to the pipe near the manifold is different on a BBM engine to the log manifold cars. A check at a spare parts shop will clarify that issue.
You'll have to use at least the upper half of an EL BBM for compatibility reasons and if you examine an EL engine you'll see the fuel inlet and return lines are attached with screw on fittings to the fuel rail and pressure regulator. BenJ and I found it much easier to attach these before fitting the EL engine and attaching the loose ends to the 'static' metal fuel lines on the chassis from below the car.
The hose from the coolant reservoir:- Depends on what radiator you use. The EB attaches on the side of the radiator, the EL from the rear. You can cut an EB hose to fit an EL radiator but not vice versa.
I was referring to improving the EECV air filter box. I'm told the BA's are better but have never used one. I only know BenJ's mods have improved his car's airflow and performance noticeably.
Cheers,
Mac

Okay. So maybe i'll need to get a longer hose or something? When i took my EL manifold off the EL engine i kept everything together as much as possible. It's pretty much still all connected, even the rubber and metal heater hoses. Maybe it will come together fine.


Okay. I've just checked the manifold and know exactly what you mean. Thankfully the wrecker looked after me by cutting the fixed pipes before the quick disconnects. I'll check to see if these will just connect up to my EBII's fixed pipes?


Okay.


Okay. I seem to recall people having to do a minor mod to get the BA box in, someone used a hammer i think.


I wonder if one of the major factors in deciding which thermostat housing and upper radiator hose to use is clearance for the snorkel. Since i'll be using a bbm filter box, that might be the reason i should use an EL or AU thermostat housing and upper rad hose.


My current plan is to get stuff from Canberra. I am developing a relationship with a wrecker there. I imagine prices in Melbourne and Sydney are lower. I am located halfway between them so can go either way, but my thinking at the moment is it's not worth it.

If you are using the EB/ED type instrument cluster, you will need to swap in the lower thermostat housing from the EA-ED engine as the EF/EL lower thermostat housings do not have the facility for the extra plugs to send info to the temp guage and the ealier auto climate control.

BenJ

R_D,
As Ben said re. lwr thermo housing.
If you've still got both heater hoses attached to the EL engine you'll soon see the difference in one to the EB.
Use the two upper fuel hose clamps from the EB to attach the cut metal ends of the fuel lines to the chassis pipes using an intermediate piece of fuel hose. I shortened one of the existing flexible EB2 lines to fashion these joiners. Very simple fix and you get to retain the quick release joins.
Cheers,
Mac