My apologies for bringing this topic up again.

I've lost the information I needed to do this job.

I would like to remove the current water pump as its been leaking for some time (probably over 16 months) slowly resulting in coolant running onto and probably into the alternator.

The lip of the water pump intake has corroded. I've replace the radiator hose and retighten the connection but still manages to seep a little , especially after a 500klm round trip drive.

Hotter days is more noticeable water loss when going up very steep grades.

I read somewhere (not sure where) that the power steering pump needs to be removed to make the job easier. I'd like to know if that's true or not before I attempt to remove the old water pump.

I'm replacing it with an aftermarket type which has built in "o" ring. I have the correct sealant to apply to the pipe that fits into the rear as well as non permanent locktite for the water pump bolts.

Does anyone know how long the sealant needs to set before filling with coolant? There is no such direction on the sealant I have.

Any advice is welcome.

Cheers

If the power steering pump is anything like the e series unit, the bracket shouldn't interfere with removing the water pump. But, removing it does improve access as will pulling the thermo fans.

With the sealant, by the time you put it all back together, it should be right to fill back up with coolant and all the rest of it.

Can anyone confirm if the heater bypass tube connection is the same on AU and E series, in that the o ring is on the and seals in the back of the water pump in the same way?

Yep....E series is same as AU....for the O'ring in the water pump.

I only remove the radiator and thermos for access. Provides enough room to see and work.

I remove the fans, and remove the p/s pump, but not disconnect it, just lay it backwards.....heaps of room to do a water pump then.

Thanks for all those that provided additional information, much appreciated.

I've taken the fans off to gain access to the tensioner so I can remove the belt so I can get to the alternator. I've removed the alternator this afternoon. Since removed I was about to tackle the water pump whilst the alternator is out.

Would the water pump bolts be easy to get to since the fan and alternator is removed?

The other question is how hard would it be to remove the Heater Return Tube that sits inside the pump (at the rear)?

Loctite 243 Medium strength thread locker is what I'm going to use on the water pump retaining bolts when refitting.

Damn, I cant find that waterproof sealant I had.

What's a good sealant to use for the Heater Return Pipe that slides at the rear of the water pump?

Cheers

The heater pipe just pops out fairly easy, I used blue silicon when fitting one to my engine, and it's over a year later and hasn't leaked. Put a bit of vaseline in the hole to help the O-ring go in easy.

The 4 bolts for the water pump are pretty easy to find.. 10mm 1/4" drive socket works well.

Shouldn't need loctite on them though. Just done up evenly tight.

I use the blue silicone sealant, whatever brand, it's the good stuff for water pumps, rocker covers, I even use it for exhaust flanges if there's no copper sealant around.

With the heater bypass pipe, I've removed the one on mine. It's a bit of a fiddle for the part behind the head, but I got it out in 2 stages..

First while doing a water pump I cut the pipe off at the water pump side as far back as I could with the exhaust manifold still on. (It's tricky to get to the pipe behind with a hacksaw blade and do an easy cut.)

I had the intake manifold off though and cut that off as close to the back of the head where it curves around.

(I left the piece around the back of the head because its held on by a bell housing bolt and was too hard to reach at the time. Got it off when I did the manual conversion a few months later.)

To block off the water pump provision I had a few blowouts with weak ideas, but now use quicksteel.

Fill the hole and spread a lip smoothly on the inside of the water pump (keeping it smooth for flow if course) and over the outside edges. Even scratch it up on the outer lip to help it grip.

At the thermostat housing I cut the pipe off leaving about an inch or two and used a rubber bung to block it off, it never blew.

I now have a housing I customised by cutting off the pipe provision and sealing off with quicksteel. (That's good stuff too)

I can get you some pics if you need.

Also, havent had an issue with engine heating/cooling that I've noticed.

Thanks TyLeR3397 and Lowlane7,

Much appreciated.

Most of my sockets are 1/2" drive. I was trying to avoid not disturbing the Power Steering Pump when removing and installing the water pump.

Blue silicone sealant. hmmm. I'll have to check my tool box and see if I've got one in there. I'll have to do another search for that sealant I had, its around somewhere. It too might have been a permatex brand

Lowlane7.

It will be interesting to see those pics , can you upload them or do you need a pm?

Cheers

Ill have to go take some.

Ill pm you them ASAP.

Lowlane7

Thanks mate

Here's a write up I did on the water pump with pictures if you are still stumped. Just ignore the bits about the clutch fan.

There we go! ^^^^^^^^

Well done there with the doco too evxr6!

Thanks evxr6,

I had a basic idea of what was required. I appreciate your illustrated document, makes things a bit clearer.

Cheers

Quite cheap water pumps on Ebay ATM, $42 delivered with metal pulley fitted.