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| matman72 |
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Im trying to remove the head and CANNOT remove the cylinder head bolts.
I,ve removed the manifolds,released timing chain tension, and camshaft sprocket. The bolts are so damn tight, I broke a socket extension, i admit theyre not top class tools.  Would removing the rockers etc, make it any easier. They just wont budge. Any suggestions please? 
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| kwaussiekid |
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Soak everything in something like WD40-will definitely help.
_________________ The older I get the better I was! |
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| phongus |
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matman72 wrote: Im trying to remove the head and CANNOT remove the cylinder head bolts. I,ve removed the manifolds,released timing chain tension, and camshaft sprocket. The bolts are so damn tight, I broke a socket extension, i admit theyre not top class tools. Would removing the rockers etc, make it any easier. They just wont budge. Any suggestions please? I am pretty sure it is recommended to remove the rockers and camshaft off the head, make sure you undo the bolts in order too. Removing the rockers also allows for more room, however if you haven't set the engine at TDC, it might be a bit more fiddly. Refer to this guide to remove the head. fordmods-technical-documents-diy-f38/head-gasket-doco-t99962.html You could remove the head the way it is, however checking to see if it is true or sending it out to get it checked will be rather difficult. Also wise to invest in some decent tools. I removed the head bolts via a T-bar with a hollow pipe on the end of it to give me more leverage. I used a short extension. Also recommend using single sided hex/impact socket, minimizes chances of rounded off the head.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| matman72 |
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I WD40'd the day before and prior to trying it even, I have a T bar, but its too short,
which was why i was considering taking the rockers off. But that guide sounds like a great place to start, thanx phongus, next step, opening that file and do some reading, thanx again man, Matt |
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| phongus |
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matman72 wrote: I WD40'd the day before and prior to trying it even, I have a T bar, but its too short, which was why i was considering taking the rockers off. But that guide sounds like a great place to start, thanx phongus, next step, opening that file and do some reading, thanx again man, Matt No problem. You can use the extension...but as you found you will need a decent one. If you can get a hollow metal pole of some sort to fit on the end of the T-bar, it will be much easier to undo the bolts as well.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| ef_falcon_95 |
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Get a rubber mallet or something soft and hit the top of the head bolts that should help. Or get an impact gun.
_________________ El XR6 Turbo |
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| spinner1987 |
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its simple remove your rockers and camsharft get a socket that fits your head bolts put the socket on the head bolt and hit the socket with a hammer give it a decent hit then undoo it that worked for me when i done mine
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| madmax |
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Remove the rockers, it'll will also make the head lighter when trying to remove it.
Use a six sided socket, preferably a impact socket use a short extension bar and a breaker bar.
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| Shortshift |
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phongus wrote: No problem. You can use the extension...but as you found you will need a decent one. If you can get a hollow metal pole of some sort to fit on the end of the T-bar, it will be much easier to undo the bolts as well. +1 with phongus. If you use a short extension, 1/2" drive (good quality) impact socket and 'breaker' bar with 1-2m piece of pipe, it should break the grip. Make sure you have someone holding the extension & socket vertical when you start applying torque. Just apply the pressure gradually in case the socket slips or the bolt head shears off. 
_________________ AU2 XR8 with Raptor VL, ported Yella Terra GT40P heads, Scorpion 1.6 RRs, XE264HR-14 Comp Cam, ceramic coated Hurricane Headers, 60lb injectors, Walbro 255, 200cfi cats, 3" exhaust & Snow Performance water methanol injection |
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| Johnson stroker |
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Where do you live? I may be able to swing by if your local. or someone else may volunteer their time and quality tools.
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| matman72 |
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dc_todd. Im in Caringbah mate, my brother in law is a diesel mechanic,
I offered him money for his knowledge, time, tools, but he's too 'busy'. :roll : . Anyway, cheers, might have to have a chat  Thanx guys,I dont have a good array of tools, letalone good quality ones, but the pipe for leverage is what twisted the extension, I thought it was actually coming loose at first, lol. I know exactly what i need now anyway. I dont have impact sockets, I cant afford snap-on or anything. is there a good quality, renowned brand, that doesnt break the bank? thanx again? matt |
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| dazza027 |
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First up, put that 3/8 drive socket set back on the shelf or in the bin if its a cheap and nasty set and go 1/2 inch drive. Next up, use a swivel headed breaker bar and a bit of pipe for extra leverage, however you could use a ring spanner with another larger ring spanner slid over the open ended section to use as leverage as well, either is better than a cheap s**t 3/8 drive socket set. When all the bolts are out and the manifolds are dropped off, what I do is shove the handle of a hammer up each port and gently apply upward pressure to crack the gaskets hold on the mating faces. Those head bolts only get done up to 80 odd pounds so they shouldnt be too hard to loosen. Also, a good indicator of a bent head is loose (ie looser than the tight ones but not literally finger tight) bolts in the middle and tight at the ends or vice versa...
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| kylexfcase |
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single hex 14mm socket and a 1/2 rattle gun (good quality) makes short work of them
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| jamie22_cole |
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+1 madmax and +1 phongus but make u use a 6 sided socket not 12 due to u may round off some of the bolts heads. if u have the 2 piece bar off a heavy duty jack slide the one with the grip on it over ur short bar ur been using which will help alot, it work for me. in the time it took me to get a few bolts cracked dad came along with his air compress rattle gun which was awesome.
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| Johnny C |
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Disregard all above advice.
Hammer and Chisel are your only hope. |
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