Hi guys,
Just looking for some advice from all the knowledgeable people here on FordMods.
The original motor in my well looked after EL Wagon has just dropped the timing chain and we now have (understandably) a very noisy motor and have been told that it needs to be replaced. We are quite shocked as the car itself has only done 150,000kms, and has been regularly serviced and fixed as it has needed it.
Anyway, we have sourced an AU motor and we are wondering if its possible to put an AU motor into the EL Wagon (not on gas or anything, stock standard wagon). And if it is possible, what changes/modifications would need to be made?
Looking for any solid advice guys, waiting in anticipation. Cheers

the timing chain has come off? it doesnt run if the timing chain has come off, and if youv put it back on it would probably have bent valves, if the timing chain is just rattly and hasent come off you should be checking other things like the chain tensioner etc...
BUT if the motor is stuffed you can fit the el distributor to the au engine, get the sump cut and rewelded to clear the front subframe in the el and it will run wit the el accessories on it

Things reqired to fit AU engine to EF/EL

1) sump needs to be modified to fit K-Frame, you can cut and weld the K-Frame but that is up to you, will need engineering after being cut. You cannot use an EF/EL sump as the sump is totally different to AU. Sump Mod Thread ford-4l-and-6-cylinder-f1/au-sump-mod-for-e-series-t79648.html

2) Need to use AU/BF alternator or you will need to modify the block and drill and tap mount points to mount the EF/EL alternator.
If you use an AU I alternator you will need to change the plug for the alternator to one from an AUI as these are different from the Mitsubishi alternators.
Note: Believe that the AUII & III and BA alternators have the same plug as EF/EL.

3) Remove the block where the Dizzy (EL) or cam sensor (EF) goes and remove the gear from the shaft and fit to your Dizzy (EL) or Cam Sensor (EF). This will then mean that the gears are matching and you should have no issues, there have been issues with dizzys failing when this has not been done. Some modding will be requiered to use the existing mount point, extra notch/gring Cam sensor.
Note:Do not try and drill hole in existing EF position on AU block, you will drill through the block.

4) You will need to use a EF/EL thermostat housing as these have your temp sensor and AU housings do not.

5) You will need to use the EF/EL BBM as the uppers are different to the AU. Also us the EF/EL throttle body as some of the plugs are different to the AU.

6) Use the EF/EL wiring loom.

7) You will need to tap the block with an M12 1.5 tap if using the EF/EL Knock sensor. If using the AU sensor you will need to modify the plug.

8) a) You will need to cut the EF/EL AC pump mount spacers down to 30mm to suit the AU block as well as shortening the bolts by 10mmm if using the AU alternator to suit the standard serpentine belt.
b) If using the EF/EL alternator with modified mounts you will not need to cut down the mounts and be able to use the standard Serpentine belt.
c) Alternativly you can use the AU alternator , standard AC spacers and a Serpentine belt from an XH (Slightly longer).

9) Use the EF/EL power steering pump. This is a direct bolt up. The AU pump hose connection is different to the EF/EL.

10) You do not need to change the Harmonic balancer for either EL (Dizzy) or EF Coil Pack.

11) If fitting to EF you will need to use your original Coil Pack or an AUI coil pack as these are different to AUII & III. (different plug)

12) you can use the AU head or fit you EF/EL head, that is up to you.different sensor.

SWC, thats very helpful. This would be useful as a sticky. or atleast the contents of Pauls post added to an existing sticky.

Thanks so much for all your advice guys, looks like it is going to be a huge job if we do that. Hmmm, something to think about. Thanks tons. Awesome.
Also, in trying to undo one of the head bolts on the original EL motor, my boyfriend has actually broken/snapped a high tensile socket...and the bolt is still in there and not any looser. Does anyone have any suggestions on how we might be able to get that bolt out?

Use an impact driver and a 2lb hammer. It will give. If not you will need an angle grinder

It is not a big job. Biggest part of the job is the sump mod.

Did he use a single hex half inch impact socket on a decent sized half inch breaker bar? If not it's probably broken because he's using the wrong tools. 3/8" tools are not for removing heads.

Regarding head bolt, tighten some of the head bolts surrounding the stuck one, this may relieve some pressure off the head of the stuck bolt...the head might be lifting just that little bit to cause grief. So if it's level it may come out easier.

I found when I had a slight problem with AU head bolt a drill bit came in handy, was the last bolt, once drilled thru the head, it sprun up... now I know whats ment by TTY Bolts, wow do they strech..... would not recomened this as there was a lot of pressure on the bolt.

That's why you undo the bolts in sequence, to relieve pressure of each head bolt steadily, rather than leaving all the pressure on the final bolt and causing headaches...