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jamie22_cole |
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how do people running in there rebuild motors? eg drive it normal? ive tried using the search tab but that thing isnt all that great.
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Johnson stroker |
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I asked the exact same question here.
Plenty of useful info to be had in this thread. You will see the 2 schools of thought when it comes to running in a motor, I personlally used the softly gently approach, I have no issues with glazing or oil burn. my motor is correctly run in, performs well and overall I am very happy with the results. Other info can also be found here. plenty of wise heads have had their input on this topic in these 2 threads. A few good links were also provided.
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AU99 |
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The Old school way was treat it gently but keep engine under load (low revs) constantly varying speed for the first 1000kays (dont hold same speed longer than 2 mins)... After that drive it normally but no WOT for 3500kays.... After that drive as normal.....
But a few people I know just drive it like they normally would... Dont get the engine to hot.... Keep an eye on all vitals constantly....
_________________ 2003 BA Falcon Egas Taxi Pack - XR Replica |
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Shortshift |
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I opted for the 'heavy-handed' approach with my latest engine rebuild after reading numerous articles. With one 4 cyl engine I rebuilt, I drove gently and kept the revs down for two weeks. This resulted in glazed bores and using 1 litre of oil every 160 km. I also made the mistake of using friction-modified oil from the start.
Basically, you've got 20km to bed the rings in using 10w mineral oil or Running In oil (not synthetic). There needs to be friction between the rings and bore, so friction modified oils are a no-no. First, find a nice straight quiet road to do this. (I did my running-in on a straight 6km long road at 6am Sunday morning.) You put the car in 2nd or 3rd gear, accelerate from about 20km/h up to 5000-5500 rpm and then take your foot off the accelerator to allow the engine to wind down by itself. When you get down to 20-30km/h, repeat the process 4 times. No applying the brakes until you need to turn around, or stop for something. The engine is now 90% run in. Once you get home, put some new mineral oil in and drive it with varying revs until 1000km. This gets rid of all the assembly lube, etc that's been mixed with the first lot of oil. At 1000km, change the oil again and use your preferred motor oil. As expected, the engine doesn't use any oil.
_________________ AU2 XR8 with Raptor VL, ported Yella Terra GT40P heads, Scorpion 1.6 RRs, XE264HR-14 Comp Cam, ceramic coated Hurricane Headers, 60lb injectors, Walbro 255, 200cfi cats, 3" exhaust & Snow Performance water methanol injection |
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wrongwaynorris |
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Shortshift wrote: I opted for the 'heavy-handed' approach with my latest engine rebuild after reading numerous articles. With one 4 cyl engine I rebuilt, I drove gently and kept the revs down for two weeks. This resulted in glazed bores and using 1 litre of oil every 160 km. I also made the mistake of using friction-modified oil from the start. Basically, you've got 20km to bed the rings in using 10w mineral oil or Running In oil (not synthetic). There needs to be friction between the rings and bore, so friction modified oils are a no-no. First, find a nice straight quiet road to do this. (I did my running-in on a straight 6km long road at 6am Sunday morning.) You put the car in 2nd or 3rd gear, accelerate from about 20km/h up to 5000-5500 rpm and then take your foot off the accelerator to allow the engine to wind down by itself. When you get down to 20-30km/h, repeat the process 4 times. No applying the brakes until you need to turn around, or stop for something. The engine is now 90% run in. Once you get home, put some new mineral oil in and drive it with varying revs until 1000km. This gets rid of all the assembly lube, etc that's been mixed with the first lot of oil. At 1000km, change the oil again and use your preferred motor oil. As expected, the engine doesn't use any oil. Ah someone that actually knows how to bed rings in properly . Ah someone who actually knows how to bed rings in properly |
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Shifteh |
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ive just like, in the last week been bedding my engine in, basically for the first 20 mins was 2000rpm watching the oil gauge all the time,, then let it cooled down then took it for a drive nothing fancy just normal to look for any problems as i rebuild both the engine and the gearbox,, then in my back yard reved it around 2 to 3.5 grand about 20 times then went up my street a few times going up to around 3.5 grand then letting it wind back down and repeated it about 20 times,, oil is at the same level as when i put it in, mind you im running moly rings with penright 15-40 running in oil,
havent had any problems, so far 70km on the engine so far
_________________ Crank Assembly balanced, HV oil pump, ACL Trimetal bearings, "1 extra oil clearance taking to around 0.0650-0.0700 on mains and big ends, Moly rings,, Xr6 Cam, POD ( Possibly oversize injectors), Block, Head, Timing cover, belt idler, Alternator,painted in ford light blue |
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