Well, Ive gone through both of the threads and this what Ive come up with. Hopefully this makes it a lot easier for some people. Still no word on the V8 pinouts yet, I was hoping we could just add to this thread whatever Ive missed out so we can soon have a comprehensive Tech Doco.

******7/12/09****** UPDATE OMGLOLRMFLMAOTITS!!!GN$($*%^*@$#%^$@
Figured out the V8 wiring. I was right in thinking we only need the S5 line and ON power. Make of that what you will gents, I still cant tell you exactly what pins because the v8 eb/d EEC wiring on here isn't very descriptive and there's still no EF EL and AU diagrams. Later on I will go through my PM's and see if I have what I need but I doubt it. Oh and also, this will save those of us running an LED having to source a + wire, just get a 6 pole switch and short out the corresponding pins. Magnifico.

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HOW TO BUILD YOUR OWN SHIFT KIT

What is a shift kit?
A shift kit essentially acts the same as "dumping the clutch" in a manual car. By adding a resistor of a greater value to a specific wire of your cars ECU, we are telling the car not to "surge" when changing gears, which results in a very sharp and noticeable gear change. You can expect chirping and wheelspin on the changes from 1st to 2nd and in some cases 2nd to 3rd gears.

Will it damage my car?
In short, no. The surging effect of the gearbox in standard form to just slide into the next gear creates a lot of heat, which is your gearboxes worst enemy. By nearly disabling this surging effect, we are reducing the heat and stress on the gearbox. However, while your gearbox is relatively safe, heavy use CAN lead to other driveline failures. The only documented damage to date on a ford BTR running a shift kit was a snapped engine mount, however, when putting that much stress on the driveline, the diff, uni joints and tail shaft could be damaged. Although, with normal use and a sensible driver, you shouldnt have anything to worry about.

How hard is it to make one and install?
If you are handy with a soldering iron and have a bit of a technical mind its a very striaght foward modification.

How much does it cost?
For the basic on/off shift kit and you already have all the consumables like heat shrink and electrical tape and a box or housing of some sort, about $10. To go all out and have one with an LED, on off switch, variable resistor with a cap, new flash project box and a mission style switch cover, about $35 from Jaycar.

Will this work on my Adaptive Shift automatic? (AU XR6>)
Yes, it will still work, but you will lose the adaptive shift for good until you join the wires that you cut back up to eachother. To any Adaptive Shift owners thinking about this mod, DONT do it, you're onboard electrics do a better job and achieve the same job as this kit does wihout risks of damage.

Brief description of how it works and what it does?
Basically, all we are doing is throwing a higher/lower voltage down the Auto Trans Variable Pressure Solenoid (S5) which in turn makes it shift harder.

Where do I mount it?
It depends on how you have made it. If youve used a big project box like mine (which you will need if you use a pot as they are very big), you are limited to the centre console or glove box. Alternatively, you could just make a simple switch style and mount it anywhere you like. In my EB, I had it installed behind the dash, and used the aerial up/down switch to turn it on and off.

I still cant understand the diagram?
If you dont know what you are doing, and cant understand how this works and what its doing, then dont attempt it. If you f**k up, and cut the wrong wire, dont come whinging to me.

Can I install this to work on my PWR/ECON button?
Up until EL you can, AU and later though, arent latch switches. So they only momentarily contact then the ECU latches it, so in an AU, its not going to be easy or worthwhile. With an EL or earlier, just lift up the switch, grab a multimeter and see what pins are touching in which position, translate this onto the diagram and bobs your uncle. Im not going to tell you which pins are touching and what to solder to, if you cant work that out, this is not the mod for you.

Whats a TCM and do I have one?
A transmission Control Module, as used in the earlier fords (up until EBII, around late 1992) is located either in front of your left knee in the dash, or just above the drivers side footrest. If you do have a TCM, you will need to wire your shift kit to this, wiring pins are provided in the diagram. Its a silver box with two yellow plugs attached to it, each of them have heaps of wires coming out of them.

Do I need to run a relay for the LED?
No, you can just splice straight into your ACC power for your stereo (AU - violet/red wire, E series - blue/white) or alternatively splice straight into your positive and negative from your cigarette lighter plug.

Can I make this plug and play?
I toyed with the idea of having a RS232 (serial) plug wired and hanging out into the centre console so the unit can be plugged in when necessary. Unfortunately though, you would need a resistor on the ECU side of the plug, activated by a switch on that side of the plug too. However though, doing it normally with a female and male RS232 plugs would mean that when unplugged, the car would go into LHM, which may be a useful theft deterrent.

How do I remove the ECU?
Before starting, remove the negative battery terminal. In an EB-EL, this is very simple. All you have to do is remove the scuff plate (3 phillips head screws), then remove the ECU cover which is held in by 2 threaded buttons. The easiest way to get the buttons out is to just lever them out with a flat blade screw driver. One the cover panel is off, there is a phillips head screw that is holding on a black earth wire, undo that, and then lever the metal bracket out, pushing it away from you then lifting it out, you will see how its attached once its off. The ECU should now be free. To get the wiring loom out, remove the covers and undo the 10mm bolt clamping the loom into the ECU. Once thats undone, you should be able to pull the loom out. The loom is held on at the bottom of the glove box by more threaded buttons, just pull as many of these out as you need to get enough space. AU's are very much the same, except you have to drill out a pop rivet where the E-series phillips head would have been. This can be very difficult because the rivet has a rounded head so filling it flat may be the better option.

None of the electrical places have the correct resistor value?
Thats OK. Say you wanted the 18Ohm 10Watt resistor, instead, you could buy 2x 9Ohm 5Watt resistors and link them in series. To link resistors in series means to link them in a chain, so the current has only one path to take.

What resistor do I need for ..........LED?
Do yourself a favour, just buy a 12V LED with its own chrome bezel. For $3 you will save a lot of time and heart ache.

Wiring?
On the ECU's, the wires will be numbered as such:
1-------------------20
21------------------40
41------------------60

Diagrams

EF and AU Adjustable Shift Kit with LED:


EBII-ED Adjustable Shift Kit with LED:


EA-EBII (TCM) Adjustable Shift Kit with LED:


EL Adjustable Shift Kit with LED:


I take no responsibility for any damages caused to your vehicle by misuse of this device, incorrect installation etc.

Last edited by 93_eb_fairmont on Mon Dec 07, 2009 8:53 pm, edited 8 times in total.

Thats awsome! well done!

all you need to do now is pm a mod and have them the thread to the driveline section.

I'd like to have as much info in here as possible, I need:
Wiring for EB, ED, EF, EL, and AU V8's
Wiring sequence for the TCM
Wire colours of EB and the TCM wire colours

This needs to go into Technical Documents in the resources section.
Very helpful.

If what Ive read is right, we should already be getting a ACC 12v through one of the wires? If so can we not just short out the 2 corresponding terminals on the switch and save having to run a + line for the LED?
Im also only 99.9% confident that the 18 Ohm resistor will be suitable for all the models there, can someone confirm? Id say that all the ECU controlled transmissions will be OK with that combo but have my doubts about the TCM boxes.

where's the TCM on an EB series 1

can you hook up the adjustable ones on the bf btr ? shiftkits.com only has single stage kits.

I spent hours drawing those diagrams and getting all the info I could out of the other threads to make it easier for someone to come along, read it and then be able to ANSWER A SIMPLE f**k QUESTION LIKE THAT. CAN YOU NOT f**k READ MATE?! LOOK UP IDIOT. I CANT MAKE IT ANY SIMPLER FOR YOU.

Now, as for BF adjustable ones, I didnt even know we could do single stage ones yet and therefore dont have the pinouts for it so do us a favour, buy one, and post up the pinouts. I guess though theres a reason they arent doing adjustable so perhaps we need some ridiculous resistor or something. Or could have something to do with B series drivelines being so weak and they dont want anyone getting carried away and blowing something. I wouldnt be attempting this mod on a b series, its more your el cheapo boring sunday sort of mod to the dirty old e series.

point taken, but i consider the btr 4 spd boring to start with, the only thing that redeems it is the sequential shift but with gears that tall after being used to an ea t5 with 3.23's gets fair un-intresting.

the only thing that turns me off is going by the description the single stage kits are the equivalant setting to their adjustable unit at 75-100% so even a 2 stage would obviously be better than the single but non available. i'll just wait. my driveline thuds around enough as it is.

That first part wasnt aimed at you low_ryda. In your situation Id recommend some diff gears instead. Have you called shiftkits.com.au and asked them? Id say it would have something to do with harshness as to why they arent doing adjustable ones, the diffs in b series are just too weak

this is awesome! better than my design! i think i may need to upgrade!

I have the diagrams for the original shiftkits.com single stage kits if anyone is interested.

If you could PM them to me thatd be awesome

looks like i deleted them from the PC. i still have a hard copy though. i'll scan them and pm you.