I've got a re-grind cam for my EBII..

It's pretty mild and the dude said just to try it without shims.. and then put them in afterwards if I need them.

Does anyone have any info on installing shims for re-grinds? is it possible I won't require them?

If ya do a search there's plenty of threads about them.

Basically the sit above the HYLA (hydrolic lash adjusters) in the rocker arms. Can be bought from Ford Spare Parts, or can use hard washers even.
You'll want new HYLA retainer clips (little round black ring seals that hold the HYLA's in place in the rocker arm) as your old ones will be stuffed I'm sure.

Check out the RPD site sponser, I think they have a technical document that tells you how to measure/test if you need more shims.

here do read this it mite give you a better idea

http://justfordima.koolhost.com/CamSetUpGuide.htm

right.. yeah I think I need them.. but why does it say:

"You may need
to shim them a couple of times but it wont
take long and keeping in mind that you
only have to do this for one cylinder"

why would you only do them on one cylinder????

While your playing around working out how many shims you need you just pick one cylinder and add/remove shims to the intake and exhaust. Once that is right you add the same number of shims to all the other cylinders.

I'm also confused cos it says:
"This is a 0.0015â€￾ feeler guage, you don’t want any more clearance than this between the solid lifter and the valve stem tip."

and

"Shim up the rocker gear to the correct level. You should have 0.7-1.1mm of lash adjustment when fitted"

so.. is the gap between the valve tip and the rocker is supposed to be 0.0015" or 1mm?? cos theres a big difference. Mine is about a mil

is it guaranteed that if I've put a regrind in I will need shims? The dude at the camshop said I might not and I should run it without first.

thoughts??

Its 0-7 to 1.1. The other is for when your making a solid lifter to measure p2v.

That guide is going to complicate things to much for you. Just install the cam, find a valve that is closed, grab the rocker arm and push and pull on it firmly to get a feel for the lash. You want it so when you push down you get a *little* movement in the arm. If it feels excessive, add a shim and try again. Add/remove shims a few times just to get a feel for it. You are better off having too much lash than not enough. After installing your engine might 'tick' for a while until oil finds its way back to the top end. If this continues for a while (more than 10 minutes) then you probably need more shimming.

Also before you start the engine maybe post here exactly how many and what size shims you have added.

Do you have a precise way of measuring lash or the size of the cam lobe (dial indicator or vernier)?

i've already ran the engine.. the cam guy told me it's such a mild grind I may not require shims.

(@ 50" lift)
Rocker ratio 2.0
Cam lift .0258"
Valve lift net .049"
Duration at .050" camlift 204
Centerline at peak lift Inlet:108 exhaust:116
Lobe Seperation : 112
Camtiming at .050" camlift intake opens :6 intake closes :30
exhaust opens: 38 Ex closes:14

so I put it together and it runs but it does sound a little noisy.. the rockers did have about 1mm of movement in them.

So I'd have to keep taking off the whole rocker assembly and putting one shim in and then back in again etc??!.. damn thats time consuming.

(I have vernier and feeler gauges)

As I posted previously those specs are incorrect.

Assuming the cam lift should be .258" I am surprised that a cam reground for that lift doesnt need shims.

true.. probably does need them.

Should I just take the rocker assembly out and stick one extra shim in each lash adjuster and put it back on?

If you only have 1mm of movement you shouldn't have to add any shims. Did you check both the intake and exhaust rockers as sometimes there is more clearance on one side.

Have you tried driving around for 10-20min to see if the noise goes away?