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| knowsfords |
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Okay, so... my car hasn't been starting, well to be more precise.. It starts when it wants to.
It hasn't wanted to start all week, some checking about and I found the distributor was loose so I figured that the timing was off. This morning I turned it over and to my surprise it started, it started about ten minutes before a mate was to come around with his timing light, we set the timing and tightened the distributor clamp and I waved him goodbye. About ten minutes later, it once again decided to not start. Time for some troubleshooting. The pump primes. Check. Earth leads. Check Does it have spark? No. Leads within recommended ohms. Check Coil okay. Check The only thing that I can think of that can cause the engine to want to not start one minute, yet the next minute let it start is the tfi module. Am I doing this rite? Last edited by knowsfords on Tue Aug 03, 2010 6:22 pm, edited 2 times in total. |
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| MAD |
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Its a fair assumption that its the TFI.
Weird that your dizzy was loose though... One more test to perform to confirm the TFI or not is to get an LED, connect it to one of the injector plugs, if it doesnt flash while cranking, then its definitely the TFI. |
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| TROYMAN |
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it does sound tfi related, if there is a fault in the tfi, once heat builds up in the module it can cut spark untill it cools again,
but most of the time a complete failure is usually the case... |
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| bbqburner |
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TROYMAN wrote: it does sound tfi related, if there is a fault in the tfi, once heat builds up in the module it can cut spark untill it cools again, but most of the time a complete failure is usually the case... All the TFI faults I have ever had, have given funny running issues. My EL ran for 6 months with a faulty TFI module, it would start and drive fine, you could even give it squirts of full throttle, but hold full throttle and the moment you got off it, it would die. To get it started again i would have to disconnect No.1 spark plug lead and start the car then with the engine still running i would have to reconnect the spark plug lead. If i turned it off to reconnect the lead it wouldn't start. And it would only work with the No.1 lead, any other and it would refuse to start, weirdest thing ever. MAD wrote: Its a fair assumption that its the TFI. Weird that your dizzy was loose though... One more test to perform to confirm the TFI or not is to get an LED, connect it to one of the injector plugs, if it doesnt flash while cranking, then its definitely the TFI. Good idea  i never thought of doing that, silly considering the TFI module tells the ECU when to fire the injectors. 
_________________ I enjoy the symphony of mechanical harmony, |
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| briney |
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it may also be the hall sensor in the dizzy. if it plays up, it doesn't give the engine the pip signal and it won't fire the injectors. pop the dizzy out, and if the bush is flogged out, just grab a new dizzy off ebay.
_________________ vote for pedro ? f**k pedro, f**k him up his stupid a***hole. |
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| knowsfords |
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Okay, so after replacing the tfi, the rotor button and the cap... off to get a blaster 3 in the morning to mount to the shock tower.
EDIT: The coil wasn't the suspect. |
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| knowsfords |
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OKAY.
So, Anyone want to sell me a match. I have checked EVERYTHING. Voltages, resistances, I even changed the sparkplugs incase they were cracked internally or something, checked the ecu relay, checked for the Pip signal and it was there... everything should be fine, it still wont run. I even tried to start it using the original pre-smartlock ecu after removing the smartlock bypass to try and eliminate that as a problem. There's zero cranking spark. |
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| TROYMAN |
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did you check if there is a , spout (spark output)signal from the ecu to the tfi ??
and was the tfi you used a new one?? |
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| knowsfords |
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yes to both.
I have put the matches down for now, because I checked the voltage at the coil again and I think the problem may lay in the connector I made up to clip into the bosch ev1 coil connector. It's dark, so it will have to wait again until tommorow after work to confirm, in the mean time I have ordered from ebay a ev6 to ev1 adaptor that I'll cut up. |
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| knowsfords |
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There's now voltage to the coil, but its only 5v. Now to try and figure out why.
Last edited by knowsfords on Tue Jul 27, 2010 9:34 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
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| knowsfords |
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Okay, so just double checked pip, there's no pip signal. The first time around I used a multimeter and it there was pip. This time I used a lightbulb, no flashy, no light... no pip.
I think the hall sensor might have been the culprit all along. |
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| MAD |
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A light bulb might not react quick enough. Best to use an LED for things like that.
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| knowsfords |
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It was an led, the light was solid, no flashing. I'm pretty sure its the hall sensor. I unplugged the tfi module again, reseated it in case I didn't get it in there properly and still nothing.
No more forking around, I've ordered a new distributor from ebay. |
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| knowsfords |
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Woo, the coil is sparking!
New distributor arrived, pulled out the old one (by the way, the way people sook about taking them out you'd think it was pulling teeth), swapped the brand new bosch tfi module onto the new dizzy and in it went. Plugged one of the old spark plugs in to the coil lead, gapped it out to 5mm, turned it over. *ZAP* HUZZAH. EDIT: In other words, it was the last thing it could have possibly been... the hall sensor. |
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