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| ratt351 |
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my ef mont has an ugly shake on heavy braking such as slowing quickly at speed,same as the early ea eb ect had a prob with,ive change discs,bearings,pads and callipers, still the same,only happens when slowing quick not under normal driving conditions, anybody got any remedies for this
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| Disco Frank |
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well i would have said the discs are warped
but u have had them changed check the wheels for balance and maybe even a wheel alignment issue?
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| relaxed_diplomacy |
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so its not the abs?
_________________ wrecking 9/97 EL fairmont sedan burgundy 6cyl auto 270k modBAintake |
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| SpeedyED |
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I've had this before, did you get BRAND NEW ROTORS? Or one's from a wrecker? I had the problem but I got mine from a wrecker, and the shook like hell... Got brand newy's and the problem went away.
If you haven't got slotted front rotor's now it's a good idea to upgrade 
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| SpeedyED |
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relaxed_diplomacy wrote: so its not the abs?
And I dought it's the abs too. Again you could go for a wheel alignment and see if they pic anything up. The general rule of thumb is if the steering shakes under braking the front rotor's are warped. If the whole car shakes under braking then the rear rotor's are warped. I want this to happen on my current car so it give's me an excuse to upgrade the rear's to slotted's.
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| Disco Frank |
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relaxed_diplomacy wrote: so its not the abs?
u think the abs is working under teh "heavy braking"? i doubt it would cause teh "shake" the OP is describing
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| GeZza200 |
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SpeedyED wrote: relaxed_diplomacy wrote: so its not the abs? And I dought it's the abs too. Again you could go for a wheel alignment and see if they pic anything up. The general rule of thumb is if the steering shakes under braking the front rotor's are warped. If the whole car shakes under braking then the rear rotor's are warped. I want this to happen on my current car so it give's me an excuse to upgrade the rear's to slotted's. lol yeah same, i got DBA 4000 wiper slotted on the front of mine with EBC Greentstuff pads on front an back. Do you think slotted will do anything on the back?
_________________ EL Futura: CVE head, Wolf V500, ICE Ignition and Coil, 36lb injectors, Walbro 255lb, Paci comps, 3" exhaust, T5, Harrop Truetrac with 3.9s. Now with 198.9rwkw, (~185rwkw and 13.80 @99.1mph) with more power to come |
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| SpeedyED |
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GeZza200 wrote: SpeedyED wrote: relaxed_diplomacy wrote: so its not the abs? And I dought it's the abs too. Again you could go for a wheel alignment and see if they pic anything up. The general rule of thumb is if the steering shakes under braking the front rotor's are warped. If the whole car shakes under braking then the rear rotor's are warped. I want this to happen on my current car so it give's me an excuse to upgrade the rear's to slotted's. lol yeah same, i got DBA 4000 wiper slotted on the front of mine with EBC Greentstuff pads on front an back. Do you think slotted will do anything on the back? All the slot's do is take away the fireband when you do heavy braking, I guess the slot's are only useful (in particular the slotted rear's) if you do track days. But I don't know if the aftermarket Slotted rotor's are ventilated at the rear's, because by standard they are solid rotors.
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| ratt351 |
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yer she's had a full balance and wheel alignment,the disc's are new
the steering is the only part that shakes and you can feel the brake pedal pulsing when it happens,which is why i thought disc's had to have been f#cked,ive also been told that some of these aftermarket disc's arnt worth a pinch of s**t and that the only ones worth their weight are the ones made with BHP steel (sposed to be garanteed never to warp or crack) so's might get meself a set of these to try are slotted actualy worth getting or is it mostly just hype
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| Kurfurst |
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Disco Frank wrote: relaxed_diplomacy wrote: so its not the abs? u think the abs is working under teh "heavy braking"? i doubt it would cause teh "shake" the OP is describing If the ABS is on, you know about it. You'd have to be away with the fairies to miss it when it comes on. |
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| Johnson stroker |
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shaking steering and a pulsing pedal.. 100% warped rotors.. what pads are you ruinning, more importantly... how did you bed the pads in? please don't say took it to the sped limit and AJMMED the brakes on. The "cooking pad" process does not work on modern pads and rotors, you actually end up with brand new warped rotors.
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| SpeedyED |
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dc_todd wrote: shaking steering and a pulsing pedal.. 100% warped rotors.. what pads are you ruinning, more importantly... how did you bed the pads in? please don't say took it to the sped limit and AJMMED the brakes on. The "cooking pad" process does not work on modern pads and rotors, you actually end up with brand new warped rotors.
This is very true, pulsating pedal = definantly f**k rotors. I have a pair of slotted front rotor's sitting here that I had to take off for a roadworthy because they were undersize, they have had the outside edge's angle grinded so technically they are illegal, but they will be good enough to get you by, and will also prove that you've f**k your brand new rotor's. I'll sell the rotor's for $20 + Postage, brand new slotted RDA rotor's with ABS are $180, DBA Slotted's are $220 I THINK!
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| [JETEB6] |
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dc_todd wrote: shaking steering and a pulsing pedal.. 100% warped rotors.. what pads are you ruinning, more importantly... how did you bed the pads in? please don't say took it to the sped limit and AJMMED the brakes on. The "cooking pad" process does not work on modern pads and rotors, you actually end up with brand new warped rotors.
^^^^^ i agree, alway read whats best recommended on the pack ie probably up to 50kmh and then slow gradually bout 10 times. I dunno maybe just me but from what i know bout brakes and falcons slotted can be a positive on the fron but pointless on the rear. Especially if your partial to a good burn out your pads and rotors are just gunna cost more to replace. but yes the "brake wear rule" is shaking steering wheel wrecked front rotors and through the pedal rear rotors. i still have a feeling bout ABS pump if all is happening at once! |
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| GeZza200 |
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is your gearstick shaking crazy when you brake aswell?
_________________ EL Futura: CVE head, Wolf V500, ICE Ignition and Coil, 36lb injectors, Walbro 255lb, Paci comps, 3" exhaust, T5, Harrop Truetrac with 3.9s. Now with 198.9rwkw, (~185rwkw and 13.80 @99.1mph) with more power to come |
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| SpeedyED |
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[JETEB6] wrote: dc_todd wrote: shaking steering and a pulsing pedal.. 100% warped rotors.. what pads are you ruinning, more importantly... how did you bed the pads in? please don't say took it to the sped limit and AJMMED the brakes on. The "cooking pad" process does not work on modern pads and rotors, you actually end up with brand new warped rotors. ^^^^^ i agree, alway read whats best recommended on the pack ie probably up to 50kmh and then slow gradually bout 10 times. I dunno maybe just me but from what i know bout brakes and falcons slotted can be a positive on the fron but pointless on the rear. Especially if your partial to a good burn out your pads and rotors are just gunna cost more to replace. but yes the "brake wear rule" is shaking steering wheel wrecked front rotors and through the pedal rear rotors. i still have a feeling bout ABS pump if all is happening at once! As I say, if your a conservitive old f@rt (just general people, take my dad for instance), who like my dad, don't speed, and like to save their fuel, and drive with a old hat on, go for the standard rotor's, but if your a petrol head like most of us, go the slotted front's at the most. Slotted Rear rotor's are a bit over kill, but I'm fussy!, in normal road condition's, your not going to need them, but if you do track day's, then yeah maybe.
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