Hi guys,

In a bit of a dilemma,

Basically I am at a crossroad,

I own an el XR6 which has recently stripped the teeth from the aux shaft and is currently sitting at my mechanics yard,

I need to know my options, any and all advice would be greatly appreciated,


What is involved in repairing and replacing the shaft? costs?

Or is it best to drop another motor in it for now? but which type? ef,el or au? (I know they fit with a bit of stuffing around) as I would rebuild the tickford over time.

If I drop another engine in it, will I have any problems with smartlock?

It also has the t5 and a brand new exeedy clutch in it, So I have no intention of letting the car go.

I had plans to rebuild the car eventually but not this soon!

Thank-you guys.

Steve.

i'd say drop anotha mota in .. be fine with ya smartlock unless ya do some elect damage

If you have stripped the Aux Shaft gear then you will have metal all through you engine, Metal will be in the bearings, oil pump, Etc.

Better to replace the engine with a good low Km AU Motor.

You could try an fix yours but it will need to be completly stripped and cleaned, new bearings, etc. and there is no guarantee that the bearing sections for the Aux Shaft won't be stuffed.

Last edited by SWC on Sat Sep 28, 2013 8:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Yep. Either rebuild your current engine or replace the engine.

not always the case, mine has done 50,000K's since stripping its aux shaft and being repaired. You do need to look at why it stripped though, mine was a hella tight distributor shaft so the dizzy got changed at the same time and no probs since.

Yep it's engine replace time, if it's your daily (or any car really) there's no real sense in spending time and money on a tainted motor given how cheap a better one is. Or better yet try to find a rebuilt motor off ebay for around the $500 mark (should have over 2k of quality parts in it). That's my plan so when one pops up on ebay don't bid on it leave it for me

Considering it is my daily, I think dropping another engine in it will be the go, and over a bit of time get the ticky all sorted with a full rebuild and add some more.. 'fun' parts

Thank-you for your help guys, only thing is if I do decide to drop an au in it, I will have to cut the k frame and stuff won't I?

[quote="I will have to cut the k frame and stuff won't I?[/quote]

That would make the vehicle illegal, I think.

No Do Not cut the K-Frame, do the sump modifications and you are away, ford-4l-and-6-cylinder-f1/au-sump-mod-for-ef-el-t79648.html



That would make the vehicle illegal, I think.[/quote]

Cutting the K-Frame without engineering certification makes the car illegal.

Things reqired to fit AU engine to EF/EL

1) sump needs to be modified to fit K-Frame, you can cut and weld the K-Frame but that is up to you, will need engineering after being cut. You cannot use an EF/EL sump as the sump is totally different to AU.

2) Need to use AU/BF alternator or you will need to modify the block and drill and tap mount points to mount the EF/EL alternator.
If you use an AU I alternator you will need to change the plug for the alternator to one from an AUI as these are different from the Mitsubishi alternators.
Note: The AUII & III and BA alternators have the same plug as EF/EL.

3) Remove the block where the Dizzy (EL) or cam sensor (EF) goes and remove the gear from the shaft and fit to your Dizzy (EL) or Cam Sensor (EF). This will then mean that the gears are matching and you should have no issues, there have been issues with dizzys failing when this has not been done. Some modding will be requiered to use the existing mount point, extra notch/gring Cam sensor.
Note:Do not try and drill hole in existing EF position on AU block, you will drill through the block.

4) You will need to use a EF/EL thermostat housing as these have your temp sensor and AU housings do not or you can extend the wiring and change the plug for the Temp sensor and use the AU sensor.

5) You will need to use the EF/EL BBM as the uppers are different to the AU. Also us the EF/EL throttle body as some of the plugs are different to the AU.

6) Use the EF/EL wiring loom.

7) You will need to tap the block with an M12 1.5 tap if using the EF/EL Knock sensor. This only applied the AUII/III blocks. AUI has the M12 thread there. If using the AU sensor you will need to modify the plug.

8) a) You will need to cut the EF/EL AC pump mount spacers down to 30mm to suit the AU block as well as shortening the bolts by 10mmm if using the AU alternator to suit the standard serpentine belt.
b) If using the EF/EL alternator with modified mounts you will not need to cut down the mounts and be able to use the standard Serpentine belt.
c) Alternativly you can use the AU alternator , standard AC spacers and a Serpentine belt from an XH (Slightly longer).

9) Use the EF/EL power steering pump. This is a direct bolt up. The AU pump hose connection is different to the EF/EL.

10) You do not need to change the Harmonic balancer for either EL (Dizzy) or EF Coil Pack.

11) If fitting to EF you will need to use your original Coil Pack or an AUI coil pack as these are different to AUII & III. (different plug) You can use the AUII/III coilpack but you will need to change the plug and new leads. Also the mount is different between the 2 Coilpacks.

12) you can use the AU head or fit you EF/EL head, that is up to you.

Why not buy another motor, service you're ticky head and wack the head and cam onto your good motor.
Only costs like $200 to service a i6 head, and swapping the head on motors that are already out is slot easier.

Ended up dropping another shaft and distributor into her, and had the timing played around with to get it right,

Will look at getting the head serviced and drop a new cam with a mild grind in the near future.


Thanks for the advice.