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| BogantaxI |
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Well I just got given an EF wagon from a mate because the head was f**k. Removed everything needed to get the head off, except for 1 thing - the timing chain guide bolt that goes through the head
    Broke the very top off the guide, like from the middle of the bolt hole. It doesnt look very significant as the guide seems to be held in place firmly with other bolts behind the timing case. It may sound stupid, but I even though of gluing it back on with quality super glue, since its only plastic, would this work? The car is not a race car and will probably not be used for anything other than normal day to day driving, and I intend to sell it after I fix the head, is there anyway I could get away without replacing the whole guide? and if not how hard is the guide to replace and what parts will I need?
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| Papa Smurf |
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I had an EB and the head gasket went on it, when I went to pull it down I noticed that the guide was broken. I had NEVER heard any chain noise before the head gasket went and after I put it all together again, it went like a beauty with the guide busted.
Honestly, if you are going to get rid of it after you fix that, I wouldn't bother replacing it or fixing it. In my experience it will be ok. Just make sure you use an AU head gasket for it. |
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| james88 |
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I broke a chain guide once the same one and just put it all back together and it made the car idle badly ie hunting.
Once I pulled the timing cover off and fixed it. It was ok. Just replace it it'll be a good experiance
_________________ there are a few falcons in my drive way, some of them are turbo charged and some arent, some have big engines and some are small but they all have one thing in common and that is the blue oval on the front |
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| BogantaxI |
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I am really scared of having to remove the timing cover. I have never seen it done before. Do you have to remove the sump? And what about the tensioner, how does that work, how hard is changing the timing guides in relation to something like changing a head, and does having the head off make it easier? I cant believe I didnt remove that bolt, because of that one bolt I am now in a world of frustration and pain lol. If I have to replace the guides I will definitely be keeping the prick of a car
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| locknut |
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Very easy on paper, everything is just a big mecanno set. A good socket set is what you want, adds heaps of confidence, as most of this is just undoing bolts..
The bastard bit is getting the timing case back on.. the lowest 3" guide (which you can't see) always hits the chain when you're trying to fit the case back on. We MacGyver'd a coat hanger to pull the chain up a bit between the crank gear and aux gear while fitting the timing cover. It's a bastard of a job. Bit easier with the head off, especially being able to seal between the timing case and the head. You'll prolly find someone who can confirm that it will be ok because the rest of the guide you refer to is mounted via groove and slot into the timing case cover itself. |
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| gogetta |
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its easiest if u drop the sump ......
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| locknut |
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Yes, you need to loosen all the sump bolts, but you still need a 2nd pair of hands pushing the sump down at the front with a massive flat blade - the chain is still an issue hitting the lower guide.
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| BogantaxI |
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So it looks like I am going to have to fix it? If I fix it I only want to replace the guide that is broken anyway, do I even have to worry about the bottom guide?
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| BogantaxI |
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one more problem I have is that there is a fair amount of surface rust in the cylinder bores, is that a problem? I have included some pictures. I have sprayed heaps of wd40 in there now, so hopefully that should stop it rusting any more.
  
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| gogetta |
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that is a lot of rust....how long was it sitting?
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| undertow |
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They usually snap a bit further down at the thinnest point of the guide... mine was already snapped at the thin point when I pulled the head off. I just left it and it runs fine, just rattles slightly at low rpm. The guide is held in place by two slots down in the timing cover so it can't go anywhere, but I'd be worried about it snapping in use at the thin point and the top part falling into the chain...
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| frankieh |
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mine was snapped there too.. I left it as is when I put it back in.. it's not really needed there anyway right at the top as the guide is supported elsewhere anyway.. I've not noticed any downside yet... no extra noise or anything. I'd be very interested in knowing how it cause the car to hunt at idle as James 88 suggested.... I can't imagine any scenario where the two are connected.
As for the rust, you need to clean that up.. get some fine emery cloth and a compressor and clean it.. don't go up and down in motion but around the bore. If you don't do that, you'll remove lots of the meat from your rings when they do it. Last edited by frankieh on Sun Aug 30, 2009 4:05 pm, edited 2 times in total. |
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| cjh |
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That is a mess....I see a cheap head gasket was used too.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
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| BogantaxI |
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It was sitting for over a month after the head gasket blew, and I knew the water would be a problem because when it blew water was pissing out the exhaust manifold and when started after sitting for like 15 minutes it hydrolocked and didnt want to turn over. What do you guys think about super gluing the top of the guide back on?
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| misk_one |
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i had a bit of rust in my bores, but nothing that bad lol.
get some acetone if possible and some rust converter/killer, will help alot
_________________ XG Panelvan |
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