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| Walkinshaw |
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If you are running an Auto or a stock ECU
DO NOT GET A 1521a
_________________ Soo many idiots. So few bullets |
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| dsheps83 |
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Walkinshaw wrote: If you are running an Auto or a stock ECU
DO NOT GET A 1521a cheers thats out so its a 1636 or a 1604 ????? if ya hadnt noticed im in the learning process about cams.. |
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| Walkinshaw |
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1636 or 1004/114 are the two I'd choose from.
Previously i had a 1004/110 in my car it had fantastic low end grunt and rattled off 2.2 60's with regularity, swaping to the 1521a has lost bulk low end to the point that it will only cut 2.4 60's.
_________________ Soo many idiots. So few bullets |
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| dsheps83 |
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personnaly i would rather the lower to middle part of the rev range to have more tourqe
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| Grechie |
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the 1636 has 2000rpm to redline torque for me, now that things have straightened up with this cam, i have that lowdown power that opto was talking about
i love this cam ! - Grechie
_________________ Ford Falcon EA Naturally Aspirated 4.0L i6 |
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| WagonDad |
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Got a 1/4 mile time Grechie and is your ride an auto or manual. Have saved up $1500 and are looking at the 1636, 4499 pacie's and lukey exhaust. Good to hear your enjoying the low down grunt of the 1636 cos thats what im looking for.
_________________ 4.0L EF Fairmont Station Wagon. EL GT Snorkel. K&N Pod in air box. 3" Intake piping.
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| jonbays |
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Jim Mocks Dev3HL is a good cam too if you don't mind doing the valve springs too and it does go OK with the stock ecu. Not the cheapest option but you get what u pays for. Dev4 also OK but better with head mods and no HD valve springs required.
I am happy with the dev3hl though. of course I still want more power but for an auto wagon its a good match. |
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| Bug |
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Im still very interested to know just what difference the 1604 and 1636 have.
_________________ EL XR6 5spd |
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| Grechie |
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just had the 3:27LSD installed...i must say whoa, wot a change from 2.77, i can now confirm from 20km onwards the car pulllllllllssss i mean pullllss! i will g tech my car asap, but for now, as a test i was just driving around and it goes now, in D with power on (its never done this b4) but it went all the way to 5500rpm then into 2nd at 90km/h...it pulls hard , as i sed b4, now i know wot opto was on about, torque has increased, ive got stock ecu and auto, and extractors, high flow cat and 2.5 redback, pod, and cam now, this thing moves now, im happy with this installment...
bug..i think the difference is more starting power lower down in the gears, and also this cam is a bit lumpy for me, it stalls on me heaps!!! (even wen turnign a corner at low low speeds)... n it idles a bit lumpy (not as bad as 1004.) im also going to get this dyno'd at williamstown dyno soon, it feels very fast i must say now. cant wait for a result - Grechie
_________________ Ford Falcon EA Naturally Aspirated 4.0L i6 |
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| Bug |
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I see, I find even the 1604 idle isnt perfect on my auto. It hunts a bit at traffic lights and if you break hard to a stop then it tries to stall sometimes.
_________________ EL XR6 5spd |
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| tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
Bug wrote: I see, I find even the 1604 idle isnt perfect on my auto. It hunts a bit at traffic lights and if you break hard to a stop then it tries to stall sometimes.
no cam other than stock will idle or perform properly without an aftermarket ecu |
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| opto |
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And Grechie feels the power woo hoo...
I had my timing set for 12 degrees and its running fine, may be just up the idle a bit. If you retard the timing more to like 20 degrees you get more torque but not the right timing point to run it. You should try it with a 3.45 to 1 diff (figuratively speaking) Grechie, I know its only a small amount but woo hoo. The trick with an auto tranny it is geared at around 2.95 in first gear, you need a lot of torque to get it spinning, if you increase your diff ratio, it needs less torque to get it to turn over. If I am wrong someone correct me First gear 2.95 + diff ratio 2.77 =5.72:1 total First gear 2.95 + diff ratio 3.27 =6.22:1 total First gear 2.95 + diff ratio 3.45 =6.39:1 total But you lose top end speed but if you are up there all the time you are going to be dead or lose your license. If you go any higher than 3.45 I believe you can't get a speed transducer cog to suit and fuel running costs go up and at the top end your engine is revving harder therefore using fuel and engine wear.
_________________ I post here cos the russian tank driver doesn't |
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| opto |
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Tickford_6 is right its a compromise partially due to the manifold pressure change, the ECU doesn't know how to deal with it that's why it goes up and down, and I don't know if there is a way around it other than a chip or aftermarket ECU.
You can tune it as best you can and it should be okay to drive without stalling, I got mine to. Since getting a Unichip mine idles smooth also I wanted to get rid of the fuelly smell from the exhaust.
_________________ I post here cos the russian tank driver doesn't |
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| data_mine |
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When I was thinking about changing diffs, I put together this excel spreadshett showing the differences between a 3.08 (what I've got), and the two I'd decided on 3.45/3.7.
Graph shows what speed/rpm you'll be doing for each rpm/diff ration for a 4spd. I currently have a 3.45 waiting to be installed.
_________________ 1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow |
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| Walkinshaw |
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you WISH the auto had a 2.95:1 1st gear!!
Both the 3 and 4speeds have a 2.39:1 1st gear
_________________ Soo many idiots. So few bullets |
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