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| OPT20EL |
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"I thought something was shagged in mine too but as I watched it get to around 104*c and fans not clicking into second speed.
then I wired up some resistors and pluged them into the tem sensor input which represented 107*c and the fans kicked in at mid speeed." If I was to do this, wouldnt the guage on the dash also give an inaccurate reading? I'm toying with the idea of a seperate aftermarket temp sender and then work out wich one of the two pins on the computer controlls high speed, and then cut and run that trigger wire to a relay and harness of my own. That way it'd still have low speed, and high speed would come in sooner with no disturbance of the temp guage. Any one done this before? What consequences could i have if i did this?  This is giving me a head-ache
_________________ AU II Fairmont congo green FG mags |
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| opto |
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OPT20EL wrote: "I thought something was shagged in mine too but as I watched it get to around 104*c and fans not clicking into second speed.
then I wired up some resistors and pluged them into the tem sensor input which represented 107*c and the fans kicked in at mid speeed." If I was to do this, wouldnt the guage on the dash also give an inaccurate reading? I'm toying with the idea of a seperate aftermarket temp sender and then work out wich one of the two pins on the computer controlls high speed, and then cut and run that trigger wire to a relay and harness of my own. That way it'd still have low speed, and high speed would come in sooner with no disturbance of the temp guage. Any one done this before? This is what I have done to control the second fan, It works fine, I lowered the second fan kickin temperature to just below the white line on the gauge(buggered if i know waht temp that is), generally keeps everything cooler, I run a 3 core Radiator also(taxi type). What consequences could i have if i did this? This is giving me a head-ache
_________________ I post here cos the russian tank driver doesn't |
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| xpression |
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if the car doesnt overheat why do u want them to come on earlier... im sure when ford designed the car they had along hard think about what speeds to set it at
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xpression wrote: if the car doesnt overheat why do u want them to come on earlier... im sure when ford designed the car they had along hard think about what speeds to set it at
its all good when the car was brand new but after a while the cooling system perishes. even more with lack of maintnance. better prevent something happening rather then fixing it when it dose. this old trend might be of interest to a few of you. http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopi ... highlight=
_________________ '96 DF II LTD 6cy |
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| opto |
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Also you will look at how many head gaskets are blown on the I6 Engine, this is due to excessive heat, also engine bay temperatures can effect intake manifold temps, cooler intake temps means better performance due to cooler air temps.
You will also find the mean optimum temperature for prolonged engine life in a E series Falcon (I6) is 85 to 95 Degrees C.
_________________ I post here cos the russian tank driver doesn't |
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| OPT20EL |
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xpression wrote: if the car doesnt overheat why do u want them to come on earlier... im sure when ford designed the car they had along hard think about what speeds to set it at
Quite simple- I want this engine to LAST! 
Just spent all this money to put in a 27,000 klm engine, dont need it to be cooking, causing a blown headgasket or somthing else exotic like that. I need this car to last: as, yes, its my pride and joy, but also its my daily driver. I dont need my wife and 5 month old baby stranded on the side of the road because of somthing preventable.. 
_________________ AU II Fairmont congo green FG mags |
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| stockstandard |
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What makes you think the engine wont last as is. Id have to agree with xpression - its running a little warmer than average but its nothing to be worried about.
If you are really concerned about making it running cooler you might be better off working out why it is running hotter than average instead of working out how to rewire fans to 'fix' the problem.
_________________ Stoke me a clipper, I'll be back for Christmas |
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Its all to do with oil breaking down with heat and pressure, lubrication etc.
_________________ I post here cos the russian tank driver doesn't |
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| stockstandard |
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I must be missing something because I would hardly call the temp getting to 101 degrees a concern.
Ive seen lots of falcons running temps in the top half of normal, and just as many in the bottom half. Lots of variables - the accuracy of the temperature gauge (the resistance of which can vary up to 15% from factory) or the finish in the casting of the cooling channels for example. The temperature gauge is in the normal range and you have a fully functional cooling system and that’s not even kicking into high gear. I wouldn’t be concerned, but that’s just me. If the thermo fans were switching to high to keep the engine temps down then I would be worried.
_________________ Stoke me a clipper, I'll be back for Christmas |
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To Each their own, I prefer a cooler running engine, this gives me headway on hot weather days aswell as dealing with larger engine loads like towing and driving up inclines.
The high number of head gasket failures is related to high engine temperatures, I havent blown a headgasket yet. And the car engine runs perfectly at lower temps with low under bonnet temps also.
_________________ I post here cos the russian tank driver doesn't |
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i did the head on my xr6 a couple of weeks ago, and she dosen't get over A, even on a hot day with a bit of a lead foot.
stockstandard - your car in your sig looks so sleeperish!
_________________ NEW RIDE - FPV FG F6 6spd Auto. 12.26@114MPH, 1.88 60FT on Cheapy Tyres with 38PSI - Stock except K&N filter! |
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| OPT20EL |
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stockstandard wrote: What makes you think the engine wont last as is. Id have to agree with xpression - its running a little warmer than average but its nothing to be worried about.
If you are really concerned about making it running cooler you might be better off working out why it is running hotter than average instead of working out how to rewire fans to 'fix' the problem. With regard to finding out why its getting hotter, tell me what you think:  As noted in the beginning of this little topic, i've replaced  : thermostat, relays, power module, had the 27,000 klm engine and the 22,000 klm radiator power flushed, replaced the temp sender, and also the idle speed controll, just for good measure.
You got any more suggestions?
_________________ AU II Fairmont congo green FG mags |
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| OPT20EL |
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opto wrote: To Each their own, I prefer a cooler running engine, this gives me headway on hot weather days aswell as dealing with larger engine loads like towing and driving up inclines.
The high number of head gasket failures is related to high engine temperatures, I havent blown a headgasket yet. And the car engine runs perfectly at lower temps with low under bonnet temps also. I'd aggree with whats written here. i'm lost as to wich way to go, as this car couldn't cope with hard work, let alone towing- it gets hot just going up a SLIGHT incline. If I climb Settlement road, Keperra, this car's coolant temp will hit about 97 degrees. Settlement road isn't an overly steep incline, so what would happen if i wanted to pull a trailer? Goodness knows- can anyone shed ANY light at all on this issue???? 
_________________ AU II Fairmont congo green FG mags |
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| stockstandard |
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OPT20EL wrote: With regard to finding out why its getting hotter, tell me what you think:
As noted in the beginning of this little topic, i've replaced : thermostat, relays, power module, had the 27,000 klm engine and the 22,000 klm radiator power flushed, replaced the temp sender, and also the idle speed controll, just for good measure.You got any more suggestions? maybe running lean (dirty injector/fuel reg or pump a little dodge/o2 sensor stuffed). are any ECU codes being thrown? Is the shielding under the bumper still intact? Where was the engine from? Was it sitting around for a while before it was installed? Was the cooling system treated and flushed when it was installed? Any damaged find on the condensor or radiator? is the reference voltage for the temp sensor correct and stable?
_________________ Stoke me a clipper, I'll be back for Christmas |
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| OPT20EL |
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stockstandard wrote: OPT20EL wrote: With regard to finding out why its getting hotter, tell me what you think: As noted in the beginning of this little topic, i've replaced : thermostat, relays, power module, had the 27,000 klm engine and the 22,000 klm radiator power flushed, replaced the temp sender, and also the idle speed controll, just for good measure.You got any more suggestions? maybe running lean (dirty injector/fuel reg or pump a little dodge/o2 sensor stuffed). are any ECU codes being thrown? Is the shielding under the bumper still intact? Where was the engine from? Was it sitting around for a while before it was installed? Was the cooling system treated and flushed when it was installed? Any damaged find on the condensor or radiator? is the reference voltage for the temp sensor correct and stable? Injectors are reconditioned, 111 system pass- just indicated there was a slow reaction from the idle speed controll, hood insulation is still good, plastic shielding still intact- has a sump guard too, from a modern auto recyclers out of an au3 but didnt flush system till in the car, no substantial damage noted on radiator or condensor. How do i check the voltage for the temp sensor, and how do i check the O2 sensor? I don't exactly wish to go chopping wirirng harnesses- thats a last resort...
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