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| tapeworm |
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Hi blokes, I put an AU VCT head on an EF block today and I'm not sure how tight the timing chain should be? I have the tensioner back in & the chain is real tight with zero movement, is this right? Also with the timing I have the E series chain with no yellow marks. I had to remove the chain from the EF sprocket & pull it over the VCT sprocket. The crank lines up with the marker & the small dot on the AU sprocket is slightly above the head line on the passenger side. Is this right to start, lol. thankyou.
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| Denislovesit |
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the best way to check the valve timing is not by trusting 'dots'
This is how I was taught and it has never failed me. turn the crankshaft until the timing mark on the harmonic balancer approaches the Top Dead Centre (TDC) pointer and at the same time watch the camshaft lobes and rocker arms over cylinder #1. As the timing mark on the harmonic balancer approaches the pointer, if the valve timing is correct, the camshaft lobes should be pointing down and no #6 cylinder camshaft lobes pointing up (opening both valves) i.e. the valves are 'rocking'. If you're no #1 valves are rocking then you need to spin the crankshaft another 180 degrees. Once you have established that your # 6 valves are rocking symetrically at the point the # 1 piston reaches TDC then your valve timing is correct. After this you can then check your cam angle sensor alignment. |
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| TimmyA |
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I dialled my VCT head into the Ford spec... Used a dial indicator and degreed the harmonic balancer and found true top dead centre by dropping a valve onto the piston and measuring its exact top...
Attachment: If you don't want to degree it in, you should be able to get it to 12BTDC and find the tooth on the sprocket that gives the closest to 50thou mm at that point... Dialling it in spot though takes in account the chain stretch that would have happened over its life and the skim off the head... These both naturally retard the cam a few degrees... As far as the tension, you pull the tensioner out... which is both bolts (the inner and outter)... pull the ratchet out of the block... (usually takes an allen key to do)... reset it... slide it back in and use some sealant and do the outer bolt back out... stick the allen key in and release the ratchet... and then use some sealant and do the inner bolt back up... Whatever tension you get is what you get... Usually there is a little bit of slack, and the oil pressure takes that part up... Cheers, Tim
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| TimmyA |
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See my build thread (link in sig) if you're stuck... Its in the last few pages...
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| tapeworm |
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Thanks for your help guys..I'll have to do timing the basic way by checking the cam lobe angles against the crank pulley and cam sprocket markers as anything more is beyond me..I need the car for work Tuesday. Maybe it would be a good idea to take it to the mechanics down the track and get the timing done the proper way or will the basic way be fine do you think?
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| TimmyA |
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basic way is fine as long as you don't get it too wrong... Once it fires and develops oil pressure it'll adv the cam (in my testing) 6deg... If you don't have it right and it is too far adv now (which is the retarded position), when it advances on start up it may bend a valve...
This was what scared me as the knowledge about it all is pretty vague and most people stay way clear of VCT motors... So I dialled it in to the thou on a dial indicator to Ford's spec to ensure I couldn't do damage... And I didn't... Hopefully it stays running good... Now I'm just concerned about the cam I had ground for it... Hopefully it doesn't bend valves either... Camtech seem pretty vague on it, so we'll see what happens... Cheers, Tim
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| tapeworm |
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TimmyA wrote: basic way is fine as long as you don't get it too wrong... Once it fires and develops oil pressure it'll adv the cam (in my testing) 6deg... If you don't have it right and it is too far adv now (which is the retarded position), when it advances on start up it may bend a valve... This was what scared me as the knowledge about it all is pretty vague and most people stay way clear of VCT motors... So I dialled it in to the thou on a dial indicator to Ford's spec to ensure I couldn't do damage... And I didn't... Hopefully it stays running good... Now I'm just concerned about the cam I had ground for it... Hopefully it doesn't bend valves either... Camtech seem pretty vague on it, so we'll see what happens... Cheers, Tim So If I've done it the way I mentioned above where I'm assuming it's correct according to the factory markings and watching the cam lobes, once the car starts it's going to advance the cam and s**t going to hit the fan. Maybe with my limited skill I should move the chain back one notch on the cam sprocket? ha
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| TimmyA |
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the phasor wasn't loosened? The four bolts in the front of it that maked it work like a vernier gear That is set by ford... Because mine had been loosened i had to dial it in right... But if yours is still factory set then in theory yes... Once to get those marks on the crank gear and shaft facing each other and the yellow links at the top the mark on the phasor goes between them... Once it's done one revolution they probably never line up with the yellow llinks again... So i think the manual covered that... Whihc was indeed the other phasor mark being slightly above the head casting...
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| tapeworm |
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Denislovesit wrote: the best way to check the valve timing is not by trusting 'dots' This is how I was taught and it has never failed me. turn the crankshaft until the timing mark on the harmonic balancer approaches the Top Dead Centre (TDC) pointer and at the same time watch the camshaft lobes and rocker arms over cylinder #1. As the timing mark on the harmonic balancer approaches the pointer, if the valve timing is correct, the camshaft lobes should be pointing down and no #6 cylinder camshaft lobes pointing up (opening both valves) i.e. the valves are 'rocking'. If you're no #1 valves are rocking then you need to spin the crankshaft another 180 degrees. Once you have established that your # 6 valves are rocking symetrically at the point the # 1 piston reaches TDC then your valve timing is correct. After this you can then check your cam angle sensor alignment. Thanks mate, I followed this and my car runs perfect. Good advice for people with basic knowlege like me.
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