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| Rick_Deckard |
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Okay, I just want a definitive and group decision on this. It's and EF block and head, with AU gasket and bolts.
Steady ED wrote: http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=33021 Tara Hymen wrote: 1st step: 30Nm 2nd: +120 degrees AU Specs, should come with gasket anyway. Is this correct, and how can I measure 120 degrees accurately? Can you do that on the torque wrench? Krytox wrote: JMM recommends:
1st stage: 40nm 2nd stage: 80nm 3rd stage: 110nm Anyone tried these settings? Sorry to start a new thread, just don't want to fudge this job up. Cheers.
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| cjh |
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You need a special tool to do that accurately. Its a torque angle/bolt angle tool, available from tool joints, Repco,..etc. It fits on the square drive of a breaker bar. You'll see by the instructions on how to use it.
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| willygrice |
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i did the 3 stage 1, i did it as it is much more accurate. No probs yet.
_________________ I dont care how fast your car is, mine goes faster through the bush. |
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| twr7cx |
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either way both will end up close to the same torque.
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| Rick_Deckard |
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Thanks lads, might do the JMM spec. settings.
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| willygrice |
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good on ya, they seem a lot more exact to me.
_________________ I dont care how fast your car is, mine goes faster through the bush. |
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| arm79 |
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I would go with the specs that Steady has suggested.
JMM specs are technically flawed and could produce bad results. You could do a 40NM and the 90deg like the e-series specs and will end up with the sameish results as the AU. |
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| stockstandard |
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Yep, JMM specs are not good. Use factory ford specs.
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| Rick_Deckard |
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I like Ford specs and all, but how am I meant to do 120 degrees accurately?
_________________ E39 523i |
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| The Dog |
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This may or may not make sense but do a 90 degree turn. Then do a 3rd of a 90 degree turn.
_________________ You'll ride a black tornado across the western sky
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| arm79 |
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There is a tool that you can buy from tool shops.. Its like a degree wheel but attaches to the end of your breaker bar. That is the way to do it.
Or as I said, you can use the e-series specs of 40Nm + 90deg... much easier to do, and you will end up with the sameish overall torque on the bolt. |
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| shnoza |
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The 3 stage is better in my opinion, less chance of snaping the bolt and also they all are the same torque, as when you do the first one, then all the other bots, the first one will be lose again.
_________________ "Chuck Norris does not sleep. He waits."
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| Steady ED |
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shnoza wrote: The 3 stage is better in my opinion, less chance of snaping the bolt and also they all are the same torque, as when you do the first one, then all the other bots, the first one will be lose again.
Show of hands from anyone who has used the ford specs and snapped a bolt and/or had a headgasket problem in an unusually short time. Why reinvent the wheel when it works?
_________________ ED XR8 Sprint - S-Trim, V500, 249rwkw |
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| Mitch_ |
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Posts: 6168 Joined: 5th Nov 2004 |
just do them up finger tight!
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| arm79 |
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shnoza wrote: The 3 stage is better in my opinion, less chance of snaping the bolt and also they all are the same torque, as when you do the first one, then all the other bots, the first one will be lose again.
You're opinion doesnt really count. If you understood the reasons why you do a xNm and a 90deg turn, then you will see that a 3 stage torque is bad... chances are you will end up with uneven torque across all the bolts. By doing it the factory way is the only way to do up the headbolts and end up with a 100% even torque across all bolts. Also means you are turning the bolt less.. Less jolts and less chance of fatiguing the bolt. |
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