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tuning an Ea onlpg 

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 06, 2005 8:47 am 
Oompa Loompa
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I'm curious...why can't it be done like we've done in the past....disconnect the coil and turn motor over to get reading?
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Posted: Sun Feb 06, 2005 8:53 am 
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chenka wrote:
I'm curious...why can't it be done like we've done in the past....disconnect the coil and turn motor over to get reading?


I don't see why you can't, however the book says to have ignition off.

This way you can do it yourself without someone helping

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 06, 2005 11:53 am 
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chenka wrote:
I swapped leads and plugs to no avail. So thtre's no way to tune at home ?and we were going to test compression but the book says to use a"remote starter".....is this a thing that can be made at home?
thanks


Have you changed the cap and rotor?

They may be worn out.

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 06, 2005 3:11 pm 
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chenka wrote:
I swapped leads and plugs to no avail. So thtre's no way to tune at home ?and we were going to test compression but the book says to use a"remote starter".....is this a thing that can be made at home?
thanks
did u put new plugs/leads? and new dizzy cap and rotor? like epitome said LPG needs a ignition sysytem in top condition

the remote stareter is basically a wire from the + ve of the battery to the starter motor solenoid with a switch inbetween so u can crabk the engine over without fuel being squirted in.
bets to be done on a cold engine
if you do a compression test take all the plugs out ( engine will spin easier )
do all 6 cyl write all the pressures down with the corresponding cyl number
then squirt some oil donw the bores and do the test again and compare readings thsi will show up worn rings
all readings should be with 10% of each other.

the lpg cvars are tuned with exhaust gas anlyser so you can see the air fuel ratio :)

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 06, 2005 3:27 pm 
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bleg. if the plugs leads, cap and rotor are all in tip top condition and it still backfires under load it's running mega lean. i can give you instructions on how to do a dodgy reset on it BUT i'll need to know what type of gas system/ gas convertor is on it and there's no way you can get it spot on without a gas analyser as mentioned.
from what you've said, there's a fault in the petrol system somewhere too but being as it may not have run on petrol for a long time it may not be worth fixing. if it's only stopped running on petrol recently, flick the switch to petrol and look into the problem the same way you would if the car didn't have a gas system on it.
other things that are gonna make a difference with setting up the gas are what changeover system and exuipment was used. it may or may not be electronically mixture controlled by a gas computer.
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Posted: Sun Feb 06, 2005 3:54 pm 
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Disco Frank wrote:
chenka wrote:
I swapped leads and plugs to no avail. So thtre's no way to tune at home ?and we were going to test compression but the book says to use a"remote starter".....is this a thing that can be made at home?
thanks
did u put new plugs/leads? and new dizzy cap and rotor? like epitome said LPG needs a ignition sysytem in top condition

the remote stareter is basically a wire from the + ve of the battery to the starter motor solenoid with a switch inbetween so u can crabk the engine over without fuel being squirted in.
bets to be done on a cold engine
if you do a compression test take all the plugs out ( engine will spin easier )
do all 6 cyl write all the pressures down with the corresponding cyl number
then squirt some oil donw the bores and do the test again and compare readings thsi will show up worn rings
all readings should be with 10% of each other.

the lpg cvars are tuned with exhaust gas anlyser so you can see the air fuel ratio :)


With the position of the starter on a I6 it is better/easier to jump the terminals in the relay block. Besides a compression test should be done with engine at operating temp.

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 06, 2005 5:36 pm 
Oompa Loompa
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I swapped parts from my identical Ea wagon( :oops: ) that runs on petrol and runs beautifully too but is a fuel guzzler, hence my buying one on LPG. Cash is non existant at the moment and I hafta sell the registered petrol one to rego/work on the lpg one so i was hoping to eliminate plugs etc that way
How would I find out what sort of system it is eg whereabouts to look?
thanks
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Posted: Sun Feb 06, 2005 7:24 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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chenka wrote:
I swapped parts from my identical Ea wagon( :oops: ) that runs on petrol and runs beautifully too but is a fuel guzzler, hence my buying one on LPG. Cash is non existant at the moment and I hafta sell the registered petrol one to rego/work on the lpg one so i was hoping to eliminate plugs etc that way
How would I find out what sort of system it is eg whereabouts to look?
thanks


Your refering to Gas system? then it should be stamped/labeled on the mixer and converter.

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 06, 2005 8:04 pm 
Oompa Loompa
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on the convertor which I hope is the doovy that keeps freezing up is the following...modelXI , 6 month '96 and Sante Fe Springs Ca and thats all we can see and on the other are only serial numbers etc...the compliance plate says it was installed in 1990 so I guess it was upgraded...not much help I guess? :oops:
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Posted: Sun Feb 06, 2005 8:25 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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chenka wrote:
on the convertor which I hope is the doovy that keeps freezing up is the following...modelXI , 6 month '96 and Sante Fe Springs Ca and thats all we can see and on the other are only serial numbers etc...the compliance plate says it was installed in 1990 so I guess it was upgraded...not much help I guess? :oops:

Yep doesn't help much in identifing the brand, however it shouldn't be freezing up, you need to maitain your water level, as the converter is kept from freezing by heat from your engines coolant, you may have an air pocket trapped inside the convertors water jacket, or your thermostat may need replacing,

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 06, 2005 8:29 pm 
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chenka wrote:
on the convertor which I hope is the doovy that keeps freezing up is the following...modelXI , 6 month '96 and Sante Fe Springs Ca and thats all we can see and on the other are only serial numbers etc...the compliance plate says it was installed in 1990 so I guess it was upgraded...not much help I guess? :oops:
weel if there convertor is freezing up there is a problem.... it should get hot ie engine coolant hot
you may have a blockage somewear

scotty will know :P
the convertor and mixer shoudl have the brand on it ie IMPCO, Vialle etc

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 06, 2005 8:53 pm 
Oompa Loompa
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can't see anything apart from what I posted....anywher else I could look?
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Posted: Thu Feb 10, 2005 11:31 pm 
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does it have a spud/donut mixer or a seperate mixer similar to a carby?

a spud/donut lives inside the air inlet tube and you cant really see it.

if it has one you can see then it is likely to be either an impco, OHG or gas research system.

 

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Posted: Fri Feb 11, 2005 7:45 pm 
Oompa Loompa
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well, it has a throttle body and on the convertor( vapouriser, regulator is on it) also has the letters DMC or OMC as well as what I previously posted. Also we did a compression test and the readings were Cyl 1=750kpa
Cyl 2=800, Cyl 3=950, Cyl 4=1000, Cyl 5=850 and Cyl 6=850 so the plan is to take off the head and check valves, head warpage etc....any input would be appreciated
thanks
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Posted: Thu Feb 17, 2005 7:00 pm 
Oompa Loompa
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well we bit the bullet and pulled the head and the wrong gasket was covering half the water journals and the other half are chockers with solid clay stuff....dunno how it didn't fry itself :shock: so am looking for a wreck or can get a reco'd one with freight for round $500 then $90 gaskets plus oil etc ...is this a good price ? Once its back on, I'm hoping thats what the missing was all about
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