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| Waggin |
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SQUEAK wrote: Also does anyone make a decent replacement intank fuel pump, for what I want? If so what are they worth?
Walbro make a 255L/hr (500HP) to replace the stock 88L/hr unit. Sells for around $180. I've got one if you're interested! Also got a spare set of 30lb/hr injectors and a 3.5 bar regluator 
Also, I think you'll be surprised at the spool times. Unfortunately I think your mind is already made up, but perhaps if you post up in the Forced Induction forum asking the boys when their snails kick in, you'll be VERY shocked. You should get CHEF to take you for a run in his car 
_________________ WAG363: AUII LTD Supercharged 363 Dart Stroker [Supercharged 363 LTD Build] |
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| Andrew J |
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Just remember how much R and D has gone into JMM's fords. If you think you're going to beat that, you'll need something his doesnt provide.
_________________ The problem with America is stupidity. I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
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| Waggin |
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Andrew J wrote: Just remember how much R and D has gone into JMM's fords. If you think you're going to beat that, you'll need something his doesnt provide.
And you'll have to do it on a Dyno which gives acceptable figures
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| EBXR8380 |
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With big power N/A your going to spend $$ big time and make stuff all power, make lots of noise, attract heaps of attention[POLICE!!]
Turbo nice and quiet torque as hell and chances are you'll pass epa...If you have to? No one ever mentions lag when they come for a ride in my car...All I hear is Faaarrrrkkkk...
_________________ As in ZOOM 126 edition |
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| slycruza |
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hey dude ive got difilpio hearders with high flow 3 inch cat 3 inch pipe and muffler... all stainless steel polished... sounds awsome on full throttle... but cost $2000 i got the guy down from $2500 as well cause i said i was going to go somewhere else to get it done... difilippo headers are the biggest ive seen anywhere... apart from custom job...
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| Waggin |
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slycruza wrote: hey dude ive got difilpio hearders with high flow 3 inch cat 3 inch pipe and muffler... all stainless steel polished... sounds awsome on full throttle... but cost $2000 i got the guy down from $2500 as well cause i said i was going to go somewhere else to get it done... difilippo headers are the biggest ive seen anywhere... apart from custom job...
For that sort of money you could have a turbo manifold and full 3" exhaust 
_________________ WAG363: AUII LTD Supercharged 363 Dart Stroker [Supercharged 363 LTD Build] |
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| SQUEAK |
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Was twin 64mm tbs, Basicly twin factory ones.
So your saying a larger single would be better than twins? And why? And would the larger single be better on the standard manifold? Like port the manifold where the throttle body mounts on big enough to suit the tb or would a custom top half of the manifold be better? Or a completely different manifold? Im interested in the pump and injectors and regulater, PM me waggin. I seriously thought about going forced induction, But I dont know....It just seems everyone is doing it and I wanted to be different. I havent made up my mind completely yet....Im still open to ideas and thoughts. Which is why im talking to you guys. But with forced induction id rather be supercharged then turbocharged. But capa wanted $7100 for a vortech kit!!! Way to much for what you get.
_________________ Fuk it, You only live once!!! |
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| AKO |
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SQUEAK wrote: LOL, Not a drama shugg. We will see what happens, But ill keep everyone informed of how im going and pictures aswell. Just to let you know, I run the Snort stage 4 kit. It starts making boost at around 2200rpm and is kicking a*** by 2600rpm, oh and it hasnt been tuned yet (running standard injectors and ecu with 12:1 rising rate reg and 255 Walbro pump). Now bear in mind the fact that mine isnt tuned yet, stage 5 turbo isnt a massive increase and the fact your running a 3000rpm stally and seriously dude, youll fry your tyres without trying. I actually find my setup very user friendly. No boost until 2200rpm (and stuff all above that unless your giving it stick), and I want a quick take off I just stall it up to about 1500rpm with foot on brake and let loose when the light goes green. Best of both worlds. But if you love a challenge and have a wheelbarrow full of cash then go N/A.
And waggin, What I mean is, If I went turbo I would be looking at the snort stage 5 kit....Thats a huge turbo, And it will take time for it to come on boost. I know going turbo is always going to make more power, but I love n/a engines and I love a challange. And if I can run quicker than a 13.4, jmm will have been beaten....As thats what his dev 6 was running in a eb or ed falcon! Was in a mag, saying its the quickest or something. Would love to beat that......Thats why the auto is staying....Autos are much quicker than manuals at drags. Also does anyone make a decent replacement intank fuel pump, for what I want? If so what are they worth?
_________________ The artist formerly known as seton005 (and allegedly The_Murph).
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| SQUEAK |
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So when do think the stage 5 kit would come on boost?
Cause my tax check will be done soon and ill have a fair bit of cash to play with.....I dont want to be doing things twice...Do it right the first time. My car is driven daily. Also If I went turbo what would be ideal diff gears? Cause I think the 3:9s would be to low for a turbo car???
_________________ Fuk it, You only live once!!! |
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| Waggin |
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Single TB allows the plenum and intake to run as per its design spec. Who knows what effects having 2 air inlets into the intake will cause.
3.7:1 would be a good selection for the auto.. you still need some poke from idle to boost, because before boost you're basically a stock 4L. Brendan Mock had the same dream of running a supercharger rather than turbo, however after 6 months of f**k around, snapping NUMEROUS belts and breaking several blowers, gave up and bolted a turbo in! I think you'll find there are more people who run NA than who run Turbo.. you will be a minority
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| SQUEAK |
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I hear you waggin, and it does make sence.
But I still dont know, what to do. Ive always been an n/a man, instant throttle response, power is there instantly is you know what I mean. I know the turbo would be a lot more driveable and make s**t loads more power. But competition is really high in the 6 turbo class, where as 6 n/a that val with the 265 hemi has it. Quick question for you waggin, If your so into this turbo 6 cylinder cars, why did you do a v8 conversion?
_________________ Fuk it, You only live once!!! |
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| Waggin |
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SQUEAK wrote: I hear you waggin, and it does make sence.
But I still dont know, what to do. Ive always been an n/a man, instant throttle response, power is there instantly is you know what I mean. I know the turbo would be a lot more driveable and make s**t loads more power. But competition is really high in the 6 turbo class, where as 6 n/a that val with the 265 hemi has it. Quick question for you waggin, If your so into this turbo 6 cylinder cars, why did you do a v8 conversion? This thread is NA6 vs Blown 6. Where was the V8 option? I'm just trying to keep on topic.
AFR 185 Heads, 347 Stroker, BBK SSI Intake, Pacemaker Pipes + NOS if thats your thing. See you at the track
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| FLYRYD |
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I didn't read all the posts so sorry if I'm repeating someone but from experience it all comes down to how much you want to spend.
There is no way your gonna get 420hp out of a N/A 6 for a start so you can scrap that idea. With a tough N/A motor, the right gears, a shot of NOS and some slicks you *could* probably hit the high 12's down the quarter. But without the NOS it'll be a 13-14 sec car. Of course the biggest advantage of a N/A setup IMO is if a cop looks under your bonnet, it all looks stock apart from maybe a set of extractors. I've chosen to go back to N/A for this very reason. On the other hand if you go for a turbo setup (which I have done in the past), there is the potential for bigger horsepower but you will always have to be careful driving around unless your willing to spend another couple of grand getting it all emissions tested and complied. Having had 3 defects in the past, and the 3rd one with the turbo's on, it was the final straw and I decided to go back to N/A where pretty much all your mods stay hidden. So if your all cashed up and don't mind spending 10g+ on a turbo then go for it. You will have more power, retain great driveability and get that cool psssshhhh noise on gearchanges!! However, if your car's a bit of a cop magnet or you think that a turbo will cost you 5g max then forget it and go N/A. |
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| Waggin |
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FLYRYD wrote: I didn't read all the posts so sorry if I'm repeating someone but from experience it all comes down to how much you want to spend.
There is no way your gonna get 420hp out of a N/A 6 for a start so you can scrap that idea. With a tough N/A motor, the right gears, a shot of NOS and some slicks you *could* probably hit the high 12's down the quarter. But without the NOS it'll be a 13-14 sec car. Of course the biggest advantage of a N/A setup IMO is if a cop looks under your bonnet, it all looks stock apart from maybe a set of extractors. I've chosen to go back to N/A for this very reason. On the other hand if you go for a turbo setup (which I have done in the past), there is the potential for bigger horsepower but you will always have to be careful driving around unless your willing to spend another couple of grand getting it all emissions tested and complied. Having had 3 defects in the past, and the 3rd one with the turbo's on, it was the final straw and I decided to go back to N/A where pretty much all your mods stay hidden. So if your all cashed up and don't mind spending 10g+ on a turbo then go for it. You will have more power, retain great driveability and get that cool psssshhhh noise on gearchanges!! However, if your car's a bit of a cop magnet or you think that a turbo will cost you 5g max then forget it and go N/A. Good points, however breaking even 180-190RWKW (on an accepted dyno) will cost more than 10g anyway 
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| FLYRYD |
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Waggin wrote: Good points, however breaking even 180-190RWKW (on an accepted dyno) will cost more than 10g anyway
sure it will if you don't run NOS! |
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